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'04 Outback H6-3.0 L.L. Bean in Seamist Green, '00 Legacy L in Timberline Green
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone tell me what's going on here? It's not the cluster itself as its happened on multiple different gauge clusters. Every door ajar shows fine on the indicator except for the driver's door, which when opened shows the passenger door open as well.

Another problem I have is my door puddle lights dont work despite new bulbs and all fuses are good.

Lastly both of my heated seats don't work although the lights come on, although that may be just from wear.
 

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2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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heated seats in gen2 seem to have more than one inline fuse. hope you don't have corrosion on the fuse box due to the windshield leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
heated seats in gen2 seem to have more than one inline fuse. hope you don't have corrosion on the fuse box due to the windshield leak.
I could always grab another fuse box from the junkyard. I had actually done this already from a junked 03 ll bean but left it my 2000 Legacy when I got rid of it. Also, I had the headliner removed, sunroof removed and the lines flushed so there should be no more leak there, don't notice it getting wet anymore on the floor. However, there are those rust bubbles around the top of the windshield that could indicate the windshield leak. I'm going on Novemeber 8th to get the roof repainted with the windshield and sunroof removed and all
 

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. . . both of my heated seats don't work although the lights come on, although that may be just from wear.
Each switch has three lights; on comes on when the headlights are on, regardless of whether or not the seat heaters are actually switched on. (This is the switch illumination bulb.)

The others two come on when the seat heater is switched on. they light up when the seat heater switch is in the Low or High heat position.

If the High and Low indicators come on when the switch is in either position, that confirms the fusing and the wiring to the switches. However, these indicators only confirm the switch position and not if the heaters themselves have power or actually working.

Are you sure the seat heaters in both seats don't work in either the High or Low positions?

Are the seat heaters connected? Each seat heater has a four-pin, square connector, probably under the seat. (R44 and R41 in the attached "2004 Seat Heater" wiring diagram.)

It's not unusual for the heater elements in the seat to develop breaks, and on a 17 year old car, it wouldn't be unusual. The continuity of the heater elements can be checked at the connectors.
 

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It's not the cluster itself as its happened on multiple different gauge clusters. Every door ajar shows fine on the indicator except for the driver's door, which when opened shows the passenger door open as well.

. . . my door puddle lights dont work despite new bulbs and all fuses are good.
Do the map lights work?
Does the key illumination ring light work?
Does the ceiling light above the seats, when switched to the Door position, come on when any of the side doors is opened?

How long have you had the car?
Did the door ajar indicator and door puddle lights work properly before?
Are all the bulbs the specified incandescent type, or have some (which?) been replaced by LEDs?
 

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'04 Outback H6-3.0 L.L. Bean in Seamist Green, '00 Legacy L in Timberline Green
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Each switch has three lights; on comes on when the headlights are on, regardless of whether or not the seat heaters are actually switched on. (This is the switch illumination bulb.)

The others two come on when the seat heater is switched on. they light up when the seat heater switch is in the Low or High heat position.

If the High and Low indicators come on when the switch is in either position, that confirms the fusing and the wiring to the switches. However, these indicators only confirm the switch position and not if the heaters themselves have power or actually working.

Are you sure the seat heaters in both seats don't work in either the High or Low positions?

Are the seat heaters connected? Each seat heater has a four-pin, square connector, probably under the seat. (R44 and R41 in the attached "2004 Seat Heater" wiring diagram.)

It's not unusual for the heater elements in the seat to develop breaks, and on a 17 year old car, it wouldn't be unusual. The continuity of the heater elements can be checked at the connectors.
This is what happens when i turn the heated seats on with both low and high. Nothing luminates when i turn the lights on. The heated seats dont work at all.

Do the map lights work?
Does the key illumination ring light work?
Does the ceiling light above the seats, when switched to the Door position, come on when any of the side doors is opened?

How long have you had the car?
Did the door ajar indicator and door puddle lights work properly before?
Are all the bulbs the specified incandescent type, or have some (which?) been replaced by LEDs?
All of the lights you mentioned work as they are supposed to.

I've had the car since january. The door indicator thing worked properly for 1 month as it randomly fixed itself and then stopped working again. The door lights never worked except for one time i put LEDs in and they worked dimly for 5 seconds in the drivers door and then stopped working again. I put new factory spec incandescents in after returning the LEDs and still nothing. Every bulb in the car interior is incandescent.
 

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. . . what happens when i turn the heated seats on with both low and high. Nothing luminates when i turn the lights on. The heated seats dont work at all.
That is correct; the light that comes on is indicating power is getting to the switch. The unknown is whether or not power is going from the switch to the seat heater, and, whether or not the seat heater is broken.

Troubleshooting will require accessing the connectors to the heater in each seat, to make sure they are indeed connected, checking for voltage at the supply connectors when the switch is on, and the continuity through the heater elements. A multimeter could be used. Do you have a digital multimeter with which you are able to make voltage and resistance measurements?

If so, then using the wiring diagram as a guide to the left/driver side, when connector R44 is connected to the wiring to the seat heater, there should be battery voltage (relative to a good ground) at pin 4 (Lg) with the switch at Low and at pin 3 (RL) when the switch is at High.

To measure the continuity of the elements, connector R44 is separated from the seat heater connector, and at the seat heater side, resistance is measured between pins 4 and 1, and between pin 3 and both pin 4 and pin 1. There should be low resistance (not more than a few Ohms) in all three cases.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That is correct; the light that comes on is indicating power is getting to the switch. The unknown is whether or not power is going from the switch to the seat heater, and, whether or not the seat heater is broken.

Troubleshooting will require accessing the connectors to the heater in each seat, to make sure they are indeed connected, checking for voltage at the supply connectors when the switch is on, and the continuity through the heater elements. A multimeter could be used. Do you have a digital multimeter with which you are able to make voltage and resistance measurements?

If so, then using the wiring diagram as a guide to the left/driver side, when connector R44 is connected to the wiring to the seat heater, there should be battery voltage (relative to a good ground) at pin 4 (Lg) with the switch at Low and at pin 3 (RL) when the switch is at High.

To measure the continuity of the elements, connector R44 is separated from the seat heater connector, and at the seat heater side, resistance is measured between pins 4 and 1, and between pin 3 and both pin 4 and pin 1. There should be low resistance (not more than a few Ohms) in all three cases.
gonna have to go buy a multimeter lol, i have this simple one that beeps but not good enough. will post what i find later
 

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Okay.

I understand the seat heaters are probably not as much a priority as the odd door ajar indication and the absence of the step lights. I'm working on this, and I think having a digital multimeter that you are able to use, could help. (We're not at the car and would have to depend on testing you do to help narrow down and hopefully, identify the problem.)
 

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To start, have you checked for power at the two step (puddle) lights, perhaps with your beeper?

The step lights use festoon type bulbs. With the bulb removed from each door, I believe there should be battery voltage (relative to a good ground) at one of the two bulb contacts in each light assembly. If you have checked this, or can do it, report the results. And, if there is battery voltage at one of the two contacts in each light assembly, note which contact at each is the one with power. This information might be used for additional measurements.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
To start, have you checked for power at the two step (puddle) lights, perhaps with your beeper?

The step lights use festoon type bulbs. With the bulb removed from each door, I believe there should be battery voltage (relative to a good ground) at one of the two bulb contacts in each light assembly. If you have checked this, or can do it, report the results. And, if there is battery voltage at one of the two contacts in each light assembly, note which contact at each is the one with power. This information might be used for additional measurements.

View attachment 522778
ok, so bought a multimeter from home depot. made sure i had it right by checking the battery voltage DC, which was at 12.45V. The puddle lights have no voltage going to them with the lights removed (they sit at 3mV which i think is nothing).
Hand Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Automotive design


as for the seat heaters, as far as I can tell, everything is plugged in. I'll take the seat up later to test for power to the connector.
 

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If you can get the power to the door lights fixed. switch the bulbs to LEDs (Diode Dynamics has some that will plug right in) - the difference is startling. You can use the same LED bulb for the dome light -you will finally be able to see things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you can get the power to the door lights fixed. switch the bulbs to LEDs (Diode Dynamics has some that will plug right in) - the difference is startling. You can use the same LED bulb for the dome light -you will finally be able to see things.
I do like the warm look of the incandescent dome lights tbh, but the puddle lights would be better with bright LEDs.

Also, I found something really weird while doing some troubleshooting. If there is a bulb in the driver's door, the door indicators will not work properly (showing driver's and passenger door open when only driver's door is). However, if the bulb is removed from the driver's door, the door indicators work perfectly fine. I have absolutely no idea what's going on lmao. Link to video
 

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The front passenger door was closed?

(I'm using the wiring diagrams to try to figure out what could cause the original "two doors" open when only the driver door is open. This latest info might be useful, but need the other door situation at the time.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The front passenger door was closed?

(I'm using the wiring diagrams to try to figure out what could cause the original "two doors" open when only the driver door is open. This latest info might be useful, but need the other door situation at the time.)
yeah the passenger side was closed and the bulb was in it, but it being open didn't affect anything. When the bulb was out of the drivers door both doors showed open or closed as normal if they were open or closed.

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Could you remove the passenger door bulb and close that door (as before), and then again check what the door ajar indicator shows when the driver door is open and the bulb there is in, or out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Could you remove the passenger door bulb and close that door (as before), and then again check what the door ajar indicator shows when the driver door is open and the bulb there is in, or out?
So for when the passenger door bulb is out: it is completely normal operation with the driver door bulb in and out, which I didn't expect. But when the passenger door bulb is in, the indicator only works right when the driver's door bulb is out. Still no lights on

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Okay. I believe the problem is rooted in the absence of power at one of the two clips in each door.

As noted earlier, there should be battery power at one of the two bulb holder clips in each door. On page1 of the wiring diagram, those point are at terminal 2 of the connectors D10 and D20 at the upper right. Note that pin 2 of the two connectors are connected together, and also back to terminal A17 of the integrated module (lower left).

When there is no power coming from terminal A17, perhaps because the wire is broken, there's an interesting circuit continuity. Starting with the driver door being open, the driver door switch (page 2) is closed. That grounds terminal A7 of the instrument panel (the large square in the middle of page 2). That allows current to pass up through the diode and into the processor, which then turns on the LED for the open driver door.

But at the same time, the ground from the closed switch goes to page 1 through "C/L(H4)-01 D", where it comes to the "DIODE (KEY WARNING SWITCH)". With the polarity of the diode as shown, in effect pin 1 of connector D10 is grounded. Normally, if there were power at pin 2 the step light would turn on. But if there's no power coming from the Integrated Module, pin 2 remains the same as pin 1, i.e, ground.

This is where it gets interesting. From pin 2 of D10 (the driver step light), there's a connection to pin 2 of D20, the passenger step light. And with the passenger light in place, that ground now is at pin 1 of D20. When we follow from pin 1 of D20, it goes to page 2 via "C C/L(H4)-02". On page 2, it goes to terminal A28 of the instrument panel. So A28 is grounded, and that allows current to flow up through its vertical diode to the processor, which then turns on the passenger door open light!

That's why, when the passenger door bulb is removed, the driver door indicator is normal; there is not path from the driver door circuit to the passenger door circuit.

Note: The LEDs in the instrument panel require only milliamps to light up, so when they are on, the step light bulbs don't light up due to the current flow through them because it's too low.

This changes significantly if there's power at terminal 2 of D10 and D20. That power (e.g., 12 V) "blocks" the flow between the two circuits so the other door open LED does not come on.

Also, when the driver door is closed, and the passenger door is opened, the door ajar indication is correct. That's because of the "DIODE (KEY WARNING SWITCH)", which prevents the "ground" from the passenger door switch from reaching terminal A7 of the instrument panel, and the driver door ajar light does not come on.

So next is to figure out why there isn't power from terminal A17 of the Integrated Module to both bulb sockets at pin 2. Have to look at that one more closely, but it appears M/B FUSE NO. 2 on page 1 is good, because the map lights work, and they are powered by that fuse.

I think we might have to locate the Integrated Unit (under the dash on the drivers side), disconnect the related connector "A: B280" and check for continuity between A17 at the connector and the bulb clip of pin 2 at the driver door step light. Maybe there's a break in that connection. Otherwise it could be a fault in the Module (hoping not).

Have to think about this direction . . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Okay. I believe the problem is rooted in the absence of power at one of the two clips in each door.

As noted earlier, there should be battery power at one of the two bulb holder clips in each door. On page1 of the wiring diagram, those point are at terminal 2 of the connectors D10 and D20 at the upper right. Note that pin 2 of the two connectors are connected together, and also back to terminal A17 of the integrated module (lower left).

When there is no power coming from terminal A17, perhaps because the wire is broken, there's an interesting circuit continuity. Starting with the driver door being open, the driver door switch (page 2) is closed. That grounds terminal A7 of the instrument panel (the large square in the middle of page 2). That allows current to pass up through the diode and into the processor, which then turns on the LED for the open driver door.

But at the same time, the ground from the closed switch goes to page 1 through "C/L(H4)-01 D", where it comes to the "DIODE (KEY WARNING SWITCH)". With the polarity of the diode as shown, in effect pin 1 of connector D10 is grounded. Normally, if there were power at pin 2 the step light would turn on. But if there's no power coming from the Integrated Module, pin 2 remains the same as pin 1, i.e, ground.

This is where it gets interesting. From pin 2 of D10 (the driver step light), there's a connection to pin 2 of D20, the passenger step light. And with the passenger light in place, that ground now is at pin 1 of D20. When we follow from pin 1 of D20, it goes to page 2 via "C C/L(H4)-02". On page 2, it goes to terminal A28 of the instrument panel. So A28 is grounded, and that allows current to flow up through its vertical diode to the processor, which then turns on the passenger door open light!

That's why, when the passenger door bulb is removed, the driver door indicator is normal; there is not path from the driver door circuit to the passenger door circuit.

Note: The LEDs in the instrument panel require only milliamps to light up, so when they are on, the step light bulbs don't light up due to the current flow through them because it's too low.

This changes significantly if there's power at terminal 2 of D10 and D20. That power (e.g., 12 V) blocks the flow between the two circuits.

So next is to figure out why there isn't power from terminal A17 of the Integrated Module to both bulb sockets at pin 2. Have to look at that one more closely, but it appears M/B FUSE NO. 2 on page 1 is good, because the map lights work, and they are powered by that fuse.

I think we might have to locate the Integrated Unit (under the dash on the drivers side), disconnect the related connector "A: B280" and check for continuity between A17 at the connector and the bulb clip of pin 2 at the driver door step light. Maybe there's a break in that connection. Otherwise it could be a fault in the Module (hoping not).

Have to think about this direction . . .
Man, you're good! Many thanks for helping. Hopefully tomorrow or the day after I'll have time to get under there and check for continuity between the connector at the module you mentioned and the bulb clip and report what I find

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Okay. When doing that I would suggest disconnecting the battery (negative cable).

I think there's two connectors at the IM, B280 and B281. They're diagrammed at the bottom of page 1, and it indicates that B280 is the larger of the two, and is gray.

When checking for continuity from pin 17 to the step light, try to both the bulb clips in the assembly (bulb out). One should have continuity (near zero Ohms resistance.)

We'll see where that takes it.
 
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