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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2015 Subaru Outback with the brake light flashing and the display reads electronic parking brake as the trouble code. Naturally eye sight, cruise control and possibly more features are disabled. I have checked removed the console box to test the parking brake switch. Everything looks good there. Is there an ohms test or related test that will test the parking brake actuator to figure out which side is bad for the parking brake actuator?
 

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Premium Member
2016 Outback Premium 2.5 CVT w/EyeSight+SRVD
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7,599 Posts
Check that the wiring harnesses are firmly connected to the PB actuators. Beyond that, the FSM has some additional troubleshooting guidance.
 

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2015 3.6R Limited w/ES
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3,967 Posts
There was an old reprogramming recall, but that was to prevent the EPB from jamming closed under somewhat unusual circumstances. But I believe there has been a thread or two that sounded similar to this. Don't recall any specific resolution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks everyone for your responses. I checked the dealer on the recall and they did the reprogramming a couple years back. However, once I was able to get under the car and do a proper inspection, the connection plug between the actuator and the harness was loose. It would not lock in place and stay. There is a great deal of pressure between the gasket seal and the locking mechanism. The clip looks split. I was able to use some electrical tape and a zip tie to keep the fasteners from separating but at some point I will have to replace the harness due to the split. The joys of buying a used car and not knowing who performed the maintenance prior to my possession. Happy that I was able to figure this out avoiding a huge repair bill for now. I priced out the actuators at $150 per side. Not sure how much the harness will cost.
 

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Brucey
'17 3.6
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12,392 Posts
Thanks everyone for your responses. I checked the dealer on the recall and they did the reprogramming a couple years back. However, once I was able to get under the car and do a proper inspection, the connection plug between the actuator and the harness was loose. It would not lock in place and stay. There is a great deal of pressure between the gasket seal and the locking mechanism. The clip looks split. I was able to use some electrical tape and a zip tie to keep the fasteners from separating but at some point I will have to replace the harness due to the split. The joys of buying a used car and not knowing who performed the maintenance prior to my possession. Happy that I was able to figure this out avoiding a huge repair bill for now. I priced out the actuators at $150 per side. Not sure how much the harness will cost.
Is it possible just to replace the connector?
 

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19 Outback 2.5i Premium
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241 Posts
Is it possible just to replace the connector?
I can answer this in general... MAYBE.

Sometimes when you break out a magnifying glass and look up the manufacturer and part number of the connector and you can find it on Digikey, Mouser, etc. and just order the connector and pins. You usually end up with way more pins that you will ever need because you have to order in "lots". And on a lot of connectors they are truly "one way" and you can pull them out. You have to cut and re-crimp new pins.

When you can't find the part, you go to the manufacturer's website. Again, sometimes you can find the exact part number, but it's best to call them no matter what.

One of three things will happen.

One: They say "Yes, the part is generally available." and they will guide you a re-seller or work with you directly.

Two: They say "No, the part is NOT generally available as it is only available to a specific "customer" (i.e. Subaru, BMW, Toyota, Sunbeam, Samsung, etc.) but... they can cross-reference to a different, but equal part number. Which then you go back to searching for that number on Digikey, Mouser, etc. Again they might guide you to a re-seller or work directly with you.

Three: They say "No, the part is NOT generally available, and NO, there is no equivalent part number". Then you are stuck. Only once was I able to get around this scenario, as the person said that I could request an "Engineering Sample". Which was awesome for one of my projects.

Although one problem when working the manufacturer, they might say that you have to purchase the connector in "lots", i.e. 50, 100, 1000. But sometimes you can get around this again with asking for "Engineering Samples".

Hope this helps.
 

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Brucey
'17 3.6
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12,392 Posts
I can answer this in general... MAYBE.

Sometimes when you break out a magnifying glass and look up the manufacturer and part number of the connector and you can find it on Digikey, Mouser, etc. and just order the connector and pins. You usually end up with way more pins that you will ever need because you have to order in "lots". And on a lot of connectors they are truly "one way" and you can pull them out. You have to cut and re-crimp new pins.

When you can't find the part, you go to the manufacturer's website. Again, sometimes you can find the exact part number, but it's best to call them no matter what.

One of three things will happen.

One: They say "Yes, the part is generally available." and they will guide you a re-seller or work with you directly.

Two: They say "No, the part is NOT generally available as it is only available to a specific "customer" (i.e. Subaru, BMW, Toyota, Sunbeam, Samsung, etc.) but... they can cross-reference to a different, but equal part number. Which then you go back to searching for that number on Digikey, Mouser, etc. Again they might guide you to a re-seller or work directly with you.

Three: They say "No, the part is NOT generally available, and NO, there is no equivalent part number". Then you are stuck. Only once was I able to get around this scenario, as the person said that I could request an "Engineering Sample". Which was awesome for one of my projects.

Although one problem when working the manufacturer, they might say that you have to purchase the connector in "lots", i.e. 50, 100, 1000. But sometimes you can get around this again with asking for "Engineering Samples".

Hope this helps.
See I wasn't thinking new.

I've also had no luck sourcing connectors.

I was thinking salvage. Cut the wire further back and solder/wrap a new one on.

I did this with the rear ABS wires when I converted the Baja. If I didn't cut them then I would have had to drop the fuel tank to run the new harness.
 

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See I wasn't thinking new.

I've also had no luck sourcing connectors.

I was thinking salvage. Cut the wire further back and solder/wrap a new one on.

I did this with the rear ABS wires when I converted the Baja. If I didn't cut them then I would have had to drop the fuel tank to run the new harness.
Do'h!!!! Yea, used/salvage is an option.

Darn thought blinders o_O
 
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