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Discussion Starter #1
My 2000 OBW sounds terrible until the engine warms up.
I don't think its just piston slap. It sounds like a rough running diesel. It's at 160 kms, so I was wondering if it could be the timing belt. I also often get a rattling sound (I think from the exhaust manifold) until the engine is up to temperature.

When the engine is warm, it is fairly quiet and performs well.

Is this normal? Anyone else have an extremely noisy engine when cold?
 

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I have the piston slap in my car but that's about it. I definately have a heat shield coming loose under the car that causes an occasional rattle. Maybe you're getting some noise there?
 

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Tokyo's between my toes
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I don't think I have the slap in my 98, although when the temps are ~20F or below it has some NAKKA-NAKKA-NAKKA noise that goes away quickly.

Did your noise come on gradually over many miles, or begin abruptly?
 

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The_Lizard said:

Did your noise come on gradually over many miles, or begin abruptly?
I bought the car with 150 kms and I didn't notice the noise when I test drove it (probably because it was a warm day). I noticed it about a week after I got the car when the weather turned cooler (below 15 C at night). I am worried about what this car will sound like this winter with -25 C mornings :(.
 

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Timing Belt Tensioner Unit ?

Hi,

I thought that my 2001 OBW had the infamous "piston slap" that everyone is talking about. It made a noise like a diesel for about 10 minutes before returning to normal. I took it to a dealer and they replaced the Timing Belt tensioner unit under warranty and now the noise is gone. Is this info related ? Maybe. Ask your dealer, it could be a process of deduction.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Daniel,

That's exactly the response I was looking for. Any idea on the cost of the TB tensioner unit? I have no warranty on my vehicle.
 

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Tokyo's between my toes
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It should not be too expensive, it's a screw-driven tensioner that bolts on to the front of the engine. It might be a Good Thing that you're making the switch, because these don't live forever anyway.

You have to get past the accessory drives and the timing belt covers to get to there. So there are a lot of "while you're in there" jobs you might consider, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The_Lizard said:
So there are a lot of "while you're in there" jobs you might consider, too.

What jobs should I consider? (other than replacing the timming belt of course). I didn't get the maintenance schedule booklet with my vehicle. Thanks!
 

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Engine noise when cold

Could this cold engine noise be exhaust header related? My old Pathfinder had the habit of blowing exhaust header gaskets (and studs breaking during removal). It would also be loud until the engine warmed up and perhaps the leak squeezed shut. I have also noticed a fairly recent increase in valve noise in my OBW (66,000 miles). Not a dramatic increase and it still sounds like a typical Subaru but noticeable.
 

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Phobos said:



What jobs should I consider?
People generally recommend changing the oil seals at the crank and the cams, as these are known to fail. Some recommend replacing the timing belt tensioners and some say replace the seals (or is it one O-ring, I forget) on the oil pump. Swapping out the water pump is an option, too.

Again, this is only because you will have already taken the trouble to tear down so much stuff that you would also need to get past to do any of these other jobs. So some people do these jobs even before these components fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here are the prices I just got from my mechanic (Canadian dollars):

Timimg belt $130
Tensioner Unit $270 :eek:
Labour $154

Any thoughts?

Anybody know where I can get the parts for a better deal?


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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i say look at tensioner too. had one in 95 Legacy (2.2 engine) seize up (as i later learned). it snapped mounting bolt and then I REALLY had some ugly noises on startup. had to drill out remainder of bolt, which was an exercise in sheer terror due to fear of drilling into alum crankcase.

b4 you do, have your mechanic look at the 4 bolts that hold the exh headp[ipes to bottom of cyl head. or you can prob see em if you crawl under car. these sometimes back out or have nuts fall off, and a simple nut replacement/tightening will cure the noise. cheap fix if that's it.

but i still think in your case it's tensioner.
 

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rough idle

My 2003 legacy this morning started up then immediately the RPM dropped below 1000 to about 500, i think, and the car began to shake and after a few seconds of this, the engine cut. I restarted and it happened again, but when i gave it gas it stopped and the car was usuble. is this a major problm? i contacted the dealer, and they said it needs to go through a diagnostic test
 

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i'm assuming you DON'T have a "check engine" light on? absence of a CEL will semi rule out defective MAP sensor or throttle position sensor, either of whcih could cause this condition.

semi idling but dying when you give it some gas is a classic not-enough-fuel-available symptom. if it was a motorcycle, i'd ask if you're sure you switched to reserve. often due to semi clogged fuel system that passes enough fuel to let it idle, but as soon as you increase fuel demands of engine by stepping on gas, it runs out of fuel relative to the amount of air the engine is taking in.

when did you last do fuel filter? (they're easy to change yourself). it's located in engine bay, usu on drivers side fender. big can, 2 fuel hoses running to it. filter is abt $12-15 at otto partz.

fuel system maintains pressure even when car is shut off, so you have lines with abt 35 psi fuel in them to disconnect. do it with cold engine since you may drip a little gas and don't want to drip it onto hot exhaust, and wrap a rag around connections before you remove either one to catch the gas that will be vented off. WEAR GOGGLES!! gasoline in eyes is painful, speaking from experience. and preferably gloves if you don't want s.o. to shrink away in horror for next few days at way your hands smell.

or you could have your mech do a fuel pressure test at the injector supply rail.
 

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Re: rough idle

bronxgop1 said:
My 2003 legacy this morning started up then immediately the RPM dropped below 1000 to about 500, i think, and the car began to shake and after a few seconds of this, the engine cut. I restarted and it happened again, but when i gave it gas it stopped and the car was usuble. is this a major problm? i contacted the dealer, and they said it needs to go through a diagnostic test
Ah hah! So it's not just me. I have been able to repeat this on the three Subarus that I regularly drive... '02 Outback, '03 Forester and '04 Legacy. All with H4, former two have AT, latter one has MT.

I find that this happens when the car is cold and I do not engage the starter for long enough... That is, just kick it over. The car won't start on the first try. However, when you hit the starter again, the car will start and idle is rough. It will drop down to about 500 and the engine will die if you do not give it gas. Trying to start it again may be difficult, requiring about 5-10 second worth of cranking.

My guess is that the first aborted start attempt eats up fuel that a cold start injector puts into the fuel rails, and that the second start will eat what fuel is left, but there's not enough left to feed the engine to keep running over 500 rpm. Hence, if you don't give it gas, the engine will stall.

Any thoughts on this? Bueller?
 
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