[Keyoutback]

Backstory:
Found a 2000 OBW, Auto, with 106k miles for the Teenage Surfer in the house.
It had a blown Headgasket.
We chose to do a full workup with Timing Belt, Waterpump, etc before being released to the said teenager..

It made sense to pull the motor and do this work out of the car.
I noticed there was not a DIY thread here for Engine removal, and people suggested I did one over on my original thread here:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...644-bought-overheated-2001-obw-gonna-fix.html

This thread is intended to Supplement not replace the Factory Service Manual(FSM), I suggest you find and print out the Engine Mounting section within the Engine Service Section.
I found what I needed here:
Busted Finger Forums • View topic - 2000 Subaru Legacy Service Manuals

I would like to point out at this point, that I am 50 this year, I have never owned or worked on a Subaru before, but am a reasonably experienced wrencher.
Having said that, I did this completely solo, with no help.
My GF was close to hand and kept me under her watch and supplied with Coffee.
It took me about 4 hours, but maybe 3 actually working...
I bet next time I could do it in 2 hours.

I am better equipped than some, having a Kwicklift Ramp, but it is not needed for this job.

Before I start, here is the important stuff..

1/
Firstly, and most importantly, SAFETY FIRST!
I am going to assume you have a brain, its functional, are reasonably fit, and you have some basic skills here.
You will be raising/supporting the car, and lifting the engine out.
Both of these operations are easy and safe if done with the right equipment, and technique, but you can and will kill or injury yourself, or someone else if you are not careful.
WEAR EYE PROTECTION at all times!
Wear hand protection, if you might be allergic to oil or coolant, or if you like clean hands.
If you are unsure, get advice or help BEFORE you start.

2/
Store and Dispose of waste oil and coolant properly!
Please remember that Dogs and Cats love the smell and taste of Coolant, and they will drink it and DIE a painfull death if they do.
Drain it, pour it into a sealed container, and clean up spills.

List of Tools and Equipment Needed:

Safety Glasses!
Metric tool set, with 1/2" drive and 3/8 drive socket set.
10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19, 22 are the most common sizes and I suggest both shallow and deep sockets are best in these sizes.
Metric Wrenches.
Screwdriver set.
Metric Allen Wrench set.
1/2" Drive Breaker bar.
Jack
Jack Stands(2), but 2 sets(4) is better
Engine hoist, Chains, Load Leveler.
Paper towels.
Oil catch pan(for Oil Draining)
Pan or Bucket (for coolant Draining)
Engine stand(Optional)
Movers Blankets(Optional... you gonna be on the floor.. floors is cold!)
Ziplock bags. Gallon and Quart size(To bag... trust me this is IMPOTENT).
Sharpies(to mark and label parts).
Digital camera(Cos I also used to have a Photographic memory, but they stopped making the film).
Disposable gloves(Optional if you like to keep you pinkies clean).
Mechanics gloves(Optional, if you like yor hands unbruised).
Hand Cleanser(Optional, to keep your partner or Boss happy)

Before you start options:
I suggest you buy some Engine degreaser, and WD40, put on some old clothes and go to your local pressure wash style car wash.
Spray the degreaser on the whole engine and let it do its job for 10 mins, then CAREFULLY wash all the grime off.. Try not to wet the electrical stuff!
After you are done, you have the WD40 to hand if anything got wet...

A/C system should be evacated according to the FSM, Read my comment in step 18/ and decide now how you want to proceed.

If you have a OBD Code reader, check the codes now, or get it checked right before you take the motor out.. You might have a code stored, that has nothing to do with what you do next. Better to know.

 

[Keyoutback]

Wherever you intend to do this task, make sure the ground is level, firm and reasonably clean.

1/
Start the car, and warm it slightly, just to make the oil drain better, but not essential.

2/
Place the car in P(Auto), or 1st Gear, and apply the Parking brake. (Inside a garage, I like to put both front windows down too)

3/ Raise and secure the Hood. I am told there is a second position for the hood stay to hold the hood higher, but it hit the ceiling in my garage, and I didnt need it.
You should be greeted by this sight... if not, shut the hood, and walk away muttering...

3/
If you prefer, follow the FSM procedure for fuel pressure relief or like me release it later by having absorbent towel available when you release the pipes.

4/
You need to raise the car about 18" to have space underneath.
Using the Hydraulic jack, raise and secure each side on a Jackstand, or drive it onto a ramp.
I have my Kwicklift, I did not need to do this, so be sure you know where is safe to lift and support.
NEVER WORK OR GET UNDER A CAR SUPPORTED ONLY ON A JACK!

5/
Disconnect the Battery. Negative post first ALWAYS!
Tuck the cables aside, remove the battery, tie down bolts, strap, and tray. Store the battery in a safe area, and bag/label the other parts. I like to take the time to clean the battery posts, check the electrolite and put it on a trickle charge. Also a good time to clean up any spillage or corrosion.

 

[Keyoutback]

6/
Remove the Engine Undertray, by first removing the 2 screws from in the wheelarch forward of the wheels... use a long screwdriver.
Then underneath, remove the 4 x 12mm bolts securing the undertray..

Two rear.. yes some of mine were missing, and my Under shield is cracked..

Two front..

Remove the tray from the front clips, bag/label the bolts and store away.

You should now have this view..

7/
Place a catch pan down and remove the Oil Pan Drain Plug, and drain the engine oil.
While you are waiting... Move to the next section, but come back and replace the Oil Drain Plug later.

8/
Completely remove the Air intake and filter assembly, from the hood scoop to the Airfilter Box and its Brackets.
bag and lable the bolts.

9/
Assuming that the engine/coolant is cool now(wait until it is, cos coolant scalds are NOT FUN).
Remove the radiator cap, and place it aside.
Place a drain pan below, and release the radiator drain pug of the RH lower side of the radiator from underneath, and allow it to drain.

I like this type of pan cos it catches more.

10/
Replace the drain plug, and radiator cap.
Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses from the engine, and again be prepared to catch coolant.

11/
Remove the electrical plugs from the 2 fans by squeezing the tabs.
LH.

RH

12/
Remove the 2 transmission fluid lines from the lower radiator, allow them to drain into a pan, and tuck them up by the LH chassis rail, so the are out of the way, and don't drip.
Like this pic I took later..

 

[Keyoutback]

13/

On the RH side, release te PS reservior from it bracket and move it up onto the inner fender..

14/
From above, remove the 2 brackets from the radiator by removing the 4 bolts. Bag and label.

Carefully lift the whole Radiator assembly up, drain any remaining coolant, and store safely away. I suggest I find time to flush it clean, and clean the fins.
View of progess!

15/
Remove the upper belt cover, and release the tensioners from the Alternator and PS pumps.
Remove the Electrical connectors and bolts from the Alternator, and remove it.

Remove the belts, Bag and label.

16/
Remove the Throttle/Cruise cables, by loosening the rearward nuts, and sliding the cables out of the metal bracket, and removing the nipples from the Throttle.

17/
Release and remove all Fuel lines from the Engine side, being careful to soak up any spilt fuel.
Nobody is stupid enough to smoke or have naked flames around at this point... right?

Tuck/remove/plug the lines up and out of the way...

 

[Keyoutback]

18/
The FSM says to depressurize/recover the A/C system before starting.
I chose not to, and removed the A/C Compressor bolts and tucked it over onto the LH inner fender.
Note, this does put a little stress on the rubber hoses, and may or may not be the wise choice..

19/
Remove the bolts, and connector from the PS pump and remove it, tucking it up onto the RH inner fender, and protecting the fender with rags etc.

PS pump removed.

 

[Keyoutback]

20/
Under the car again, remove the LH, and RH exhaust manifolds from the heads(3 nuts each side).
Pull the Manfold down and release it from the heads.
This gives you space to remove the 2 bolts that hold the manifold assembly to the main exhaust sytem at the rear!
Now remove the forward Exhaust assembly.

21/
Remove the nut and washer from each engine mount.
Remove the lower Transmission to Engine bolts...
One long bolt and one nut each side...
These are a both TIGHT and pig to get at!
These 4 fasteners took me about 30 mins of frustration and grunting!
The Front driveshafts and engine Crossmember are in the way, and you will have to juggle between socket extensions and 1/2 drive to crack them loose, and 3/8 drive to spin them out.
FYI, I found that the RH(passenger side) was better to do from above, but the LH side from below as its the only access with steering joint and starter motor there.

22/
You need to support and lift the slightly transmission at this point.
I used a small jack. on the Kwicklift's cross beam, but I protected the transmission pan with a plate of plywood to spread the load.
I lifted the transmission until I saw the enginemounts come fre from the engine X-member.

23/
From above, RH side, seperate the engine to chassis electrical plugs at 2 O/clock on the bellhousing by pressing the tabs and releasing them.
Release the 02 sensor wire that goes downwards.

24/
Remove the Access bung on the engine side upper side about 1 O/Clock.
Attach a 22mm socket to a breaker bar, and put it on the engine crank pulley nut.
Rotate the engine with the bar, until a Torque Converter bolt comes into view in the access bung hole.
Remove it, using a wrench, and rotate the engine, repeat, until all 4 are removed.
Remove the Breaker bar.

25/
LH Drivers side, remove the two coolant pipes that go to the heater, and again catch coolant below.
Remove the Engine Ground wire.
Tuck them outta the way!

26/
Remove the 2 starter motor bolts and push it back away from the motor..
Simple to say, tricky to do... again access to the upper, is easy, but the lower is a pig!
The worst is now over!


27/
Now we is getting serious!
Bring in the Engine crane!
You need to check something here before you proceed...
You need to be sure that you have enough "Lift" to bring the engine up and out.
I struggled here because of the extra height of my quicklift... I maxed out the hoist lift, and was 2" shy of clearing the oil pan.
II also was coming in from the side, which made it worse.
I had to juggle the engine foward and swing it out over the front... it was tricky, so check BEFORE you lift!

Attach chains to the rear lifting eye and the hole in the A/C pump Bracket.
I like to use my "Load Leveler" device...

 

[Keyoutback]

28/
Take some load on the engine crane now and check that the chains are about evenly tensioned, so that the engine will come out level and even.

29/
Remove the forward bolt on the transmission to Firewall steady bar.

30/
Remove the remaining transmission to engine bolts.
Bag and label each one position.
At this point, the engine will start to move away from the transmission.
You need to check that the Torque converter stays put in the transmission, so check thru the starter motor hole.

31/
Slide the motor STRAIGHT forward... there are 2 long bolts on the lower side that need to clear, so check and double check:
A/ The motor is coming forward balanced and level.
B/ Nothing is still attached.
Take your time here... and remember this thought...
"The second job of an Engine Hoist is to test the breaking strain of those parts you forgot to unbolt!"

32/
Once the motor is clear of the transmission, you can lift it up and out!

Optional..

Mount the engine on the stand... To adapt my Harbor Freight stand to this engine I needed FOUR bolts:
100MM x M10 1.25 TP(thread pitch)

Mounted!

This is how it looked ready for the rebuild!

I think thats it!
If I missed anything, I will add it...
Thread is OPEN!

 

[tibug]

You're a great person for doing this. I hope I never have to pull my engine, but if I do, this thread will be indispensable. In fact, I'd like to paypal you a "tip" if you'd be kind enough to accept it.

Thanks a million, sir.

 

[Keyoutback]

Thanks, but I am just giving back!
If you want to Flash your cash..... Talk to the Host of this site!
Lets assume you have nothing in the way of tools...
Buy a Craftsman tool kit, an engine hoist and ramps/a Jack and jack stands.
You would save MONEY... and still have the tools, if you did this DIY!

 

[tibug]

Thanks, but I am just giving back!
If you want to Flash your cash..... Talk to the Host of this site!
Lets assume you have nothing in the way of tools...
Buy a Craftsman tool kit, an engine hoist and ramps/a Jack and jack stands.
You would save MONEY... and still have the tools, if you did this DIY!

I've got everything I need, except for maybe a few hand tools and an engine hoist. :29:

 

[Brucey]

I wish there was an engine hoist that didn't take up half the floor space. Even the folding ones are still quite large folded up. Plus for as little use as they get, I generally just end up renting/borrowing one.

 

[Keyoutback]

I wish there was an engine hoist that didn't take up half the floor space. Even the folding ones are still quite large folded up. Plus for as little use as they get, I generally just end up renting/borrowing one.

Agreed.
Mine is the folding type and when I am not using it, it lives in my storage unit. Its done well... maybe 6 engines now, so its more than paid for itself.
I remember seeing an A frame type made of poles that slotted together, but I searched and could not find one these days.

 

[SubaRUDE]

I've seen them at the local Pick'n'Pull wrecking yard, would be pretty simple to make.

On another note, you weren't kidding with how little space you are working with! I'm surprised you havent sawzall'd a hole in the ceiling

 

[Keyoutback]

The "Pick'n'Pull" hoists are HUGE... way too big to have floating about at home for most of us! Mine is a 2 ton, and with the legs folded up, and arm down and compressed has a footprint of 25" X 30", albut 62" tall. Its still too big to have floating in a 2 car garage!
Yes, my garage height is a pain... I just checked, and I have 40" from radiator support to roof on the Outback on the Kwicklift... lucky the motor is so compact... like 20" deep!

 

[Tony H]

Question on the Trani to Block removal POST #6 Your item #21:
In Hind Site...Would it help if you Jacked up the trani and lifted motor slightly? Would it give you a bit more accessability?

 

[Tony H]

Thanks, but I am just giving back!
If you want to Flash your cash..... Talk to the Host of this site!
Lets assume you have nothing in the way of tools...
Buy a Craftsman tool kit, an engine hoist and ramps/a Jack and jack stands.
You would save MONEY... and still have the tools, if you did this DIY!

Just gotta say.. I'm your Age, I have always done my own work on my cars. My Sons Subie is a new experience from the American Steel I have always worked on. Well, waitI have my Volvo that has 300K+ miles on in. I'm the original owner. And I have done several Picturals like this one for Teh Volvo Forums.
This Subie engine seems like a walk in the park to Pull. These "new" engines and their harnesses have always scared me as far as Pulling.. But it sounds like Subie did it smart. Only a few Connectors. and all the other accessories were able to be unbolted and laid out of te way.. Very nice.

Why didn't you put teh Engine lift in front of the car?? No room? The engine was light enough that I guess you can grab the front legs of the hoist and just shift it. The Bolts from Belhousing to Engine... are they threaded into the Block or the Bellhousing? As I said, I'm new to Subies. I haven't been under the car enough to make my own observations

 

[eastmonsoon]

Hello All!
Due to the idler gear for the timing belt breaking I am pulling the engine of my 2001 Outback 5spd.

I am unable to separate the engine from the transmission.
- Yes, the bolts are out of the bell housing
- Yes, the motor mounts are out of the subframe

This is the first time I am pulling a motor. I have the proper tools, but do not want to damage either the bell housing or the engine block by prying on either.

I know this is a newbie question, but does the transmission have to be in neutral? Any other advice, threads, sugggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Tony H]

Hello All!
Due to the idler gear for the timing belt breaking I am pulling the engine of my 2001 Outback 5spd.

I am unable to separate the engine from the transmission.
- Yes, the bolts are out of the bell housing
- Yes, the motor mounts are out of the subframe

This is the first time I am pulling a motor. I have the proper tools, but do not want to damage either the bell housing or the engine block by prying on either.

I know this is a newbie question, but does the transmission have to be in neutral? Any other advice, threads, sugggestions would be appreciated.

Did you unbolt the Pressure Plate from the Torque convertor?
I hear there are two buried bolts on teh bottom that are blocked by the Axles.. Did you remove them?
Starter is out?
You may have to rap it with a mallet. In many engines, there are 'pin guides' that help line up the engine with the trani, they are tight. It may take a bit of wiggling to get them to work there way out.

 

[eastmonsoon]

Thanks, I finally just used a bigger bar that a friend had. Small gouge in the tranny case but cleaned up easy. Now I am on to the re-install. Valves replaced, new HG but Timing is screwed up so if anyone knows how to time engine from scratch, I would appreciate that knowledge.
Thanks
D

 

[Cbisch]

So what is the trick

I am in the process of pulling the motor in my 2001 OBW AT for a head gasket job. I have the starter off, removed the bolts that connect the engine to tranny, and took the bolt out that holds tranny support to firewall but can not get the engine to seperate from the tranny. I have the hoist hooked up with tension and tranny supported enough that the motor mount bolts are clear of the xmember but can not break the motor free. Is there a trick or do I just need to apply more muscle? Thanks for the help.