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2013, OB Limited, 2.5, dark gray. July 2016 - approx 55,000 miles.
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2013 has been great, I'm just curious about how hard it would be to replace the engine when the time comes. Right now, on eBay you can buy a 2014 2.5L for the CVT transmission, for $1400 delivered with about 30 - 40k miles on it. That seems pretty affordable to me. I saw CVT's for a tad more too.

It just appears that if you can do the engine yourself, then you can ''fix'' any major engine issue for $1400 and get a much lower milage engine. I recently saw someone requiring a $2700 head gasket fix on their gen4, and have been quoted $5k for transmission rebuilds from AAMCO before. Is there something I'm missing? Is it just time (a weekend?), or are there additional costs??

Thanks
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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26,951 Posts
there was one guy here a few months back in Florida that DIY replaced a FB25B with a engine he got from S. carolina,...think he paid $1400 for it,??

his was going to fall outside the oil consumption recall.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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26,951 Posts
and a 2014 CVT should have a extended warranty on it to 100,000 miles.
 

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Registered
2013, OB Limited, 2.5, dark gray. July 2016 - approx 55,000 miles.
Joined
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
and a 2014 CVT should have a extended warranty on it to 100,000 miles.
Yes, got the paperwork for CVT extension. More just thinking that maybe owners shouldn't be ''that'' scared of engine/cvt issues, if at worst (if you DIY), for $3000 you can have a low milage used engine and CVT to fit (and can sell the old ones to recoup some money...depending on condition).

But maybe I'm being optimistic, and $2800 in parts (engine + CVT) would end up being $5000 if you also need to do other things like accessories etc?? Really don't know myself.
 

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2004 LL Bean H6 A/T
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21 Posts
Well, I just completed a engine swap on my H6 04 OB. So YMMV.

Here is what I would suggest / recommend:

Sockets:
8mm (1/4" drive), 10mm (1/4" and 3/8" drive), 12mm and 14mm

Wrenches (ratchet box end is handy:
8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm

Disconnect everything in the engine bay (fuel lines will require a disconnect tool)

Remove the radiator

When hoisting the engine out, for the H6, I found the trick was to tilt the engine upward from the front. So you need three lift points. Two lift points on the front and one in the back.

Reverse the process when dropping in the new engine.

The quick connect fuel lines would not reconnect and the generic replacement connectors from Dorman did not work with the hoses. So I used 4' of 5/16" fuel injection and hose. (The H6 has two fuel lines plus the return line. Don't know if the H4 has one or two fuel lines. I used about 18-20 inches of hose for each replacement line.)

Hope this helps.
 

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2015 Outback 2.5i Limited, Ice Silver/Black
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2,452 Posts
Cart/horse. You know if you pre-buy an engine and trans, you will be t-boned a week later...
 
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1999 30th Anniversary Legacy Outback DOHC 2.5L 4EAT, 2008 Impreza WRX 2.5L 5MT, 2008 Impreza Wagon 2.5L 4EAT
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1,224 Posts
Cart/horse. You know if you pre-buy an engine and trans, you will be t-boned a week later...
I bought stuff to fix my son's air conditioning system while he was away at college. A month before he came home he totalled the car 300 miles from home. :frown2:
 
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