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2000 Subaru Outback Limited Sedan, 2.5L
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so color me stupid, or at least careless, but when I separated my engine from my tranny (head gasket replace) I neglected to mark the orientation of the flywheel to the torque converter. There's only four bolts attaching the flywheel to the torque converter.


Two questions I have at the moment:


1.) Does the flywheel and torque converter bolt locations need to be matched to the exact position when going back together?
2.) The flywheel turns with the engine crank. The crank was turned after removal from the tranny to facilitate the head gasket job. How do you ensure the first flywheel to torque converter bolt lines-up with the bell housing access hole so the bolt can be installed?


I'm hoping I'm just over-complicating the issue and everything will magically line-up with little to no issues!!!


2000 Legacy Outback Limited Sedan
 

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Premium Member
2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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14,464 Posts
Ok, so color me stupid, or at least careless, but when I separated my engine from my tranny (head gasket replace) I neglected to mark the orientation of the flywheel to the torque converter. There's only four bolts attaching the flywheel to the torque converter.


Two questions I have at the moment:


1.) Does the flywheel and torque converter bolt locations need to be matched to the exact position when going back together? No

2.) The flywheel turns with the engine crank. The crank was turned after removal from the tranny to facilitate the head gasket job. How do you ensure the first flywheel to torque converter bolt lines-up with the bell housing access hole so the bolt can be installed?
If I understand you correctly, you turn the crank so you can see the bolt hole in the flywheel through the access hole of the block, then rotate the torque converter to line up the threaded bung in the torque converter with the flywheel bolt hole so you can start the bolt. The torque converter will turn freely and easily. You are utilizing the access on the top of the engine? I ask because you say bell housing which is part of the front differential.


I'm hoping I'm just over-complicating the issue and everything will magically line-up with little to no issues!!!


2000 Legacy Outback Limited Sedan
And its easiest with the intake off the block or at least the throttle body removed from the intake. Lots of room that way.
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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1,567 Posts
1. No, there is no exact orientation/clocking of the bolt holes to TC bolt holes. No balance issue or "symmetry" issues there.

2. Align the flywheel's bolt hole in the window by turning the crank. Once the engine and trans are mated leave the starter removed (not installed). Use your hand through the starter hole to rotate the torque converter to align the TC's and flywheel's bolt hole. Do NOT torque the TC-to-flywheel bolt down, finger tight only. Rotate the crank until all 4 bolts are installed. Proceed to torque the bolts down.

Once all torqued down, reinstall your starter. After that, you're done with trans/engine mating. The rest is just reverse of engine removal. Be sure to rotate the engine several times to make sure nothing was dropped our binding during engine mating.
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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5,936 Posts
And ye gods, make sure there's a gap between converter and flex-plate before tightening the engine-trans bolts.
 

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2000 Subaru Outback Limited Sedan, 2.5L
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163 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Duh, access the TC by way of the starter mount...now why didn't I think of that?!? So simple, it's genius. Thanks RoughDiamond and everyone else who replied!
 
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