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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,
I have got a 2002 Subaru Outback 2.5 H4 which has been driven me nuts for several months.
It has that up-down idling whenever I press the brakes or turn the ac on.Also when I press the brakes the headlights dim a bit as well as the ambient light above my head.
What I have tried so far:
New NGK wire set.
New NGK spark plugs.
New alternator.
Timing belt and tensioner replaced 5000mi ago.
Cleaned IACV,MAP and grounds.
New secondary CAT+resonator
TPS adjusted at:
.05v(throtle fully closed)
5v (current to the TPS)
4.25v(throtle fully open.I heard it has to be 4.5 but I it couldn't reach that voltage).

Although the car has the above mentioned idling issues,when I switch on gear and slightly press the accel. the car will break my neck.IT's like a missile....super fast and powerfull.


Has anybody got any ideas what that thing could be?

Cheers!
 

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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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15,477 Posts
Replace the battery. Check your ground cables and all the ground lugs on the firewall, intake and fenders. Then recheck the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Replace the battery. Check your ground cables and all the ground lugs on the firewall, intake and fenders. Then recheck the alternator.

I took the battery from my Toyota,which I bought 6 months ago and put it on the Subaru....same crap.
The Toyota doesn't have any issues at all.
As far as the ground cables go,I have installed a ground kit and checked for continuity between the engine bay and the chassis...2.1Ohms..?
The alternator is new re-manufactured from Advance Auto.Actually that's the second I got from them,because the first went bad a week after I installed it.
Now the new one is charging 14.45V at start up and no load.After warm up it drops to 14.15V.With all accessories on drops again to 13.4V,however if I press the brake pedal it continues to lowering the voltage to 12.5V,(still under load).If I rev the engine up the voltage doesn't go any higher then 12.7...
WTF?

Second alternator was bench tested at the shop.....GOOD.
Battery was tested....GOOD.

Whether or not this has anything to do with the above mentioned issues,there is that 'jumpy' behavior upon start.The needle will jump up to 1200RPM's when starting the engine and then becomes steady.Also when I floor the gas pedal while driving(lets say while driving with 30MpH) will not go evenly up,but on steps,as if there is a delay/hesitation and after 2-3 sec will pull up.

I spent an hour yesterday playing with a OBDII PC based scanner,watching the data.There was only one code stored(no MIL on)in the ECU(P0122-Throttle pos. sensor low input).I reset the ECU and started the engine data.
Is it normal the TPS to be at 0.00% at idle when engine is warm?



Cheers!
 

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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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Ground kit? How did you run the cables?

The ground lugs that run out of the harness and to the intake and firewall need to be loosed, cleaned and reattached. A single 4 gauge cable would have sufficed to increase amperage conductance to the block. The best position to run it is from the battery to the AC or alternator. A second one could be added from the battery to the firewall which would help with flow to everything grounding to the body at the firewall and inside the car.

You need another alternator. Doesn't matter what a bench test did. Find a Mitsubishi alternator for the car.

The TPS is @ 0.0% to 100%, CT-WOT. Ignore the codes until you get the electrical corrected. You may still need a battery. If you don't have a meter, take it to the parts store and have the amperage output checked. It needs to be above 450 amps. If its any more than 150 below what it's rated, swap it. Otherwise put it on an overnight slow charge to bring it back up to full output.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ground kit? How did you run the cables?

The ground lugs that run out of the harness and to the intake and firewall need to be loosed, cleaned and reattached. A single 4 gauge cable would have sufficed to increase amperage conductance to the block. The best position to run it is from the battery to the AC or alternator. A second one could be added from the battery to the firewall which would help with flow to everything grounding to the body at the firewall and inside the car.

You need another alternator. Doesn't matter what a bench test did. Find a Mitsubishi alternator for the car.

The TPS is @ 0.0% to 100%, CT-WOT. Ignore the codes until you get the electrical corrected. You may still need a battery. If you don't have a meter, take it to the parts store and have the amperage output checked. It needs to be above 450 amps. If its any more than 150 below what it's rated, swap it. Otherwise put it on an overnight slow charge to bring it back up to full output.

Thanks man.I'll clean those grounds there and take the car to Advance in order to have the alternator tested again,and eventually swapped with new one.It's got a live time warranty anyways..:29:
 
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