Subaru Outback Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
2008 Subaru Outback
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello! 08 Outback, at the rear end of the exhaust, the pipe splits to go to the twin mufflers (why this was necessary I dont know), at the Y I've got a leak. Right in that crotch. I bet half the Subarus have a leak there. I've got some ideas on patching this, does anyone have a decent DIY on this? I have sucsessively used stove pipe cement to patch the CAT on my old Volvo. Thanks in advance. Dave
 

·
Registered
2012 OB , 2017 Impreza
Joined
·
3,277 Posts
Hello! 08 Outback, at the rear end of the exhaust, the pipe splits to go to the twin mufflers (why this was necessary I dont know), at the Y I've got a leak. Right in that crotch. I bet half the Subarus have a leak there. I've got some ideas on patching this, does anyone have a decent DIY on this? I have sucsessively used stove pipe cement to patch the CAT on my old Volvo. Thanks in advance. Dave
If you want a lasting repair WELD IT!! Putting home-remedy patches on it will actually increase the cost of WELDING it later. (Weldment does not like to stick to that crap so additional pre-welding cleaning will be required.)

My local shop charged $25 to weld it and it lasted many years thereafter.
 

·
Premium Member
2007 2.5 L Obsidian Black Outback XTL
Joined
·
603 Posts
From a mechanical engineering standpoint a temporary patch at that point will not last. Right at that point there are forces from each muffler assembly that is floating on the rubber-bungee suspenders and the straight pipe going back to the cat. Imagine it as a twisting motion from each muffler and that joint is where the stresses will be the greatest.

Even a straight weld might not do it, it may need a narrow strip of metal (think of it as the G-string for the exhaust). I am avoiding all of the sexual innuendo that will be sure to follow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,836 Posts
Hello! 08 Outback, at the rear end of the exhaust, the pipe splits to go to the twin mufflers (why this was necessary I dont know), at the Y I've got a leak. Right in that crotch. I bet half the Subarus have a leak there. I've got some ideas on patching this, does anyone have a decent DIY on this? I have sucsessively used stove pipe cement to patch the CAT on my old Volvo. Thanks in advance. Dave
I tried to fix the front Y pipe after cracking it on a solid block of ice dropped off a semi on the highway. Didn’t work that was a custom exhaust shop that tried to patch it. 4 yrs later after enough water and road grime was ingested into the front Catalytic Converter I replaced the Y pipe my self stock part then had the same shop replace the front cat.

The rear y pipe is probably no different
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,877 Posts
If you want a lasting repair WELD IT!! Putting home-remedy patches on it will actually increase the cost of WELDING it later. (Weldment does not like to stick to that crap so additional pre-welding cleaning will be required.)

My local shop charged $25 to weld it and it lasted many years thereafter.
+1, I'd be breaking out my welder.
 

·
Registered
'07 Outback 3.0R LL Bean, '74 BMW 2002, '65 Datsun L320, '99 Land Cruiser
Joined
·
199 Posts
Right now I've got the entire 'crotch' packed full of metal putty, like this ( https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-16002TRI-QuikSteel-Reinforced/dp/B000FW7UOM ) . It smelled real bad after it got hot the first several times, but I expected that. Seems to be doing fine now, several months later. I know its not the way to do it right, but I've been busy with more important things.
Yeah, welding is one way to do a better job, and I have my own grinder and cheap welder ready. I wasn't entirely confident in welding it with it on the car myself, though. Isn't that risky for the electronics? I'd rather take it off first to do it right, but for me to remove the mufflers I know the flange bolts and flanges are just going to twist right apart and I'll have to buy a couple split flanges too.
It's not to expensive to just buy a whole new center muffler assembly, $125 for a Bosal or Ansa from RockAuto, or $318 for OEM. If stuff is getting rusty and ugly, might be better just to get new.

Anyways, I didn't have time or ambition to dig into it, and wife didn't like the sound. I did a temp job with the metal putty for now to get me a few months time. I figure instead of welding the crotch itself where the putty is sitting now, I'll weld a plate over the end and close the whole thing in.
 

·
Registered
09 Legacy GT, 08 Legacy 2.5i, 09 Outback 2.5i
Joined
·
165 Posts
Weld it...

My 08 Legacy had the same leak at the y pipe crotch. Take the pipe off and do everything possible to not remove or disturb the two muffler pipe connections - remove the y-pipe and two mufflers as one unit. I took a soft metal U bolt and hacked off one side threads and laid it into the crotch of the joint and started to weld it up. Once the cut end was welded on I used a hammer to pound it to the sharper bend of the y-pipe crotch. Cut off excess u-bolt and then proceed to weld the heck out of it with a big huge bugger weld. Use low voltage on the welder to avoid blowing a hole in the pipe and go slow with breaks to let it fully cool.
 

·
Registered
2005 Outback Wagon 3.0 L.L. Bean
Joined
·
840 Posts
Same leak on mine. Been doing it for 2+ years. Sounds a bit farty. Especially when you shut off the car.
Too bad. The rest of the system has years left in it. I've searched for a resonator/ center section with single 2 1/2" outlet, and single 2 1/2" muffler because I hate that Y section more than I think dual exhaust looks cool.
I'm convinced there is nothing premade specifically to do this. I gave up Googling for it.
These Lego Subarus we drive, Any possible combo center pipe/resonator and muffler from other model subarus that might get close
 

·
Registered
2006 Subaru OUtback XT
Joined
·
88 Posts
The LEGO days are kind of long gone. I used a complete 2004's WRX up, down and cat back system on my 1994 Legacy Touring (Turbo 2.2) wagon with just an extension pipe and 1 cut in the down pipe to twist it a bit to clear the 4EAT.

But there must be an axel back that would just bolt on and be better than the OEM.

WHEN, not IF my 06 OBXT's Y pipe fails at that joint I will bend some 14 gauge stainless sheet steel to make a "Gusset" type panel and pull the battery connections and then just MIG weld it over the Y sealing it all the way around. This will do two things, make the flex at the Y less and seal it up.

Muffler shops MIG weld on COMPUTERIZED cars all the time and all they do is disconnect the battery. They also put the welders ground clamp as far from the computer as possible.
 

·
Registered
'07 Outback 3.0R LL Bean, '74 BMW 2002, '65 Datsun L320, '99 Land Cruiser
Joined
·
199 Posts
Right now I've got the entire 'crotch' packed full of metal putty, like this ( https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Magic-16002TRI-QuikSteel-Reinforced/dp/B000FW7UOM ) . It smelled real bad after it got hot the first several times, but I expected that. Seems to be doing fine now, several months later. I know its not the way to do it right, but I've been busy with more important things.
No surprise, but as expected this has failed after a couple months. The exhaust is still relatively quiet, but the solid chunk of metal putty is just sitting in the crotch loosely. It did not permanently adhere to the pipe. I'm going to see how much longer I can ignore it, though.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top