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Discussion Starter #1
i am swapping an ez30 into my baja turbo (long story) and my new engine didnt come with any accessories, and i was having a hard time locating the idler pulleys other than ordering them from the stealership, so i went through the shelves at advance auto the other day and fount an almost exact match, dayco p/n 89007 they were 10.00 each and they had 6 of them in stock.
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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i am swapping an ez30 into my baja turbo (long story) and my new engine didnt come with any accessories, and i was having a hard time locating the idler pulleys other than ordering them from the stealership, so i went through the shelves at advance auto the other day and fount an almost exact match, dayco p/n 89007 they were 10.00 each and they had 6 of them in stock.
What year engine is that?

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #4
its an 04 ez30d, the bearing number is 6203rsj its an ntn bearing, should also work with the ez30r
 

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MY03 H6 Wagon
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So then this pulley is or isn't a direct fit?
The bearing is the same, but how does the pulley itself differ from the original?
 

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MY03 H6 Wagon
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Hmm, looks like the two pulleys are quite similar... but the second one is listed as being specifically for the EZ30's.
It's also roughly 3½ times the cost for the 89087 versus the 89007.

Here are the spec comparisons from the Dayco website: http://www.accessdayco.com/BuyersGuide.aspx


 

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2001 LLBean Outback
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Just got finished replacing these pulleys on our 2001 H6. Ran into some mis-information and here's what the end result is.

The 89087 is listed on both the Dayco page and the Advance Auto page as being a replacement for the stock idler pulley and tensioner pulley. I purchased two at roughly $45 apiece to swap in. They are identical in size (OD) as the stock pulleys but made of some kind of nylon material, not metal like the OEM ones. The idler pulley went on fine, but when I tightened down the tensioner pulley it LOCKED IT TO THE HUB ON THE FRONT OF THE TENSIONER BRACKET. WOULD NOT ROTATE. I probably removed and replaced it three times thinking I had done something wrong, but finally determined that they must have it listed incorrectly in the parts books for the tensioner pulley. The webbing as shown in the above picture for the 89087 caused the interference.

So I put the old tensioner pulley back on and went and picked up a 89007 as suggested here. (IIRC, $18 +tax) It's slightly smaller in diameter but there is plenty of swing in the tensioner mechanism to accommodate that. Swapped it in and it worked fine. It is made of metal like the OEM one so I guess didn't need the stiffening on the back side which caused the interference.

So right now I've got one of each, working fine. Next time I'll go with two of the 89007's. No point in spending the extra $30 IMHO for the one listed in the parts book.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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Just got finished replacing these pulleys on our 2001 H6. Ran into some mis-information and here's what the end result is.

The 89087 is listed on both the Dayco page and the Advance Auto page as being a replacement for the stock idler pulley and tensioner pulley. I purchased two at roughly $45 apiece to swap in. They are identical in size (OD) as the stock pulleys but made of some kind of nylon material, not metal like the OEM ones. The idler pulley went on fine, but when I tightened down the tensioner pulley it LOCKED IT TO THE HUB ON THE FRONT OF THE TENSIONER BRACKET. WOULD NOT ROTATE. I probably removed and replaced it three times thinking I had done something wrong, but finally determined that they must have it listed incorrectly in the parts books for the tensioner pulley. The webbing as shown in the above picture for the 89087 caused the interference.

So I put the old tensioner pulley back on and went and picked up a 89007 as suggested here. (IIRC, $18 +tax) It's slightly smaller in diameter but there is plenty of swing in the tensioner mechanism to accommodate that. Swapped it in and it worked fine. It is made of metal like the OEM one so I guess didn't need the stiffening on the back side which caused the interference.

So right now I've got one of each, working fine. Next time I'll go with two of the 89007's. No point in spending the extra $30 IMHO for the one listed in the parts book.
Good info, thanks! Did you get a refund on the interference fit one?
 

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02 Outback LL Bean
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I wanted to add that a pulley with part number 89007 from Advance or from Autozone is smaller than the stock pulley. I had them priced this weekend at $18.95 w/o tax.

In comparison Napa part number NBH 36330 is the exact same size as the stock pulley and was $35.09 at my Napa dealer.

Both after market pulleys are slightly different than stock. Both are made of metal. Neither have the lip found on the stock pulley. And both have the bearing flush in the pulley. There is no shelf (for lack of a better word) that the bearing sits on inside the pulley. Both have the bearings pressed flush inside.

I hope this helps anyone looking for an aftermarket pulley.
 

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2003 Outback LL Bean
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Where are folks getting the nut and bolt that hold the idler in place? I have a 2003 H6 3.0 with 160,000 on it.

I'm going to buy the Dayco 89007 to replace mine. But when the bearing froze it sheared the bolt and it gone now.

Thanks in advance for the recommendations! :D
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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Where are folks getting the nut and bolt that hold the idler in place? I have a 2003 H6 3.0 with 160,000 on it.

I'm going to buy the Dayco 89007 to replace mine. But when the bearing froze it sheared the bolt and it gone now.

Thanks in advance for the recommendations! :D
Subaru Parts

There is a very short list of things that you can get aftermarket that work as good as OE. If all you need is the bolt, washer and spacer, it won't cost much at the dealer as all the items are sold independently.
 

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2004 Outback H6 Sedan, 1996 Legacy Outback H4
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620 Posts
I picked up a pair of the Dayco 89007's as a preventative replacement for my 04 H6, and they worked like a charm. The tensioner was more than able to make up for the slightly smaller diameter.

What I found unusual is that the pullys on the engine and the these 89007s were about the same thickness, not 6mm different like the dayco website says.
 

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01 H6 3.0 OBW, bought used w/90K at 10yrs. 110% maintained, now 98K @ 11th yr needs a lil attention to stay at 100%
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original OEM idler pulley bearings failed

while driving on blue ridge pkwy NC. heard a squeel, smoke puff, and then a POP! turned off engine immediately.

Found the pulley (23770AA020) and single center bolt threads to be 75% unscrewed and belt slipped off.

Must have been within a few rpms of it shooting off like a pinball. Was able to get nice folk from the hills to loan a wrench, drive me to Asheville, and buy said pulley for $45 plus tax at dealer.

Tightened it on and finally that dang squeel sound that was happening for the previous 2 months went away. But, haven't done any other repair or maintenance related to this. Want to get any ones opinion or suggestions on if I should be looking to do something else in conjunction or follow up to it some how? Is this part a good one or is a different replacement better?

Two of the ball bearings within the bearing were blown. Too bad cant jsut replace that. It seemed the original pulley had a lip around the back of it so the belt wouldnt slip off, where the new one is smooth all around without the lip.

thanks - newbie to subi
01 H6 LLB OBW
bought used 1 year ago
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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You can indeed replace the bearings (and change the other one if you haven't!), NAPA 6203-2RSJ.
 

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01 H6 3.0 OBW, bought used w/90K at 10yrs. 110% maintained, now 98K @ 11th yr needs a lil attention to stay at 100%
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Thanks. Will strongly consider doing it soon.
 
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