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2003 ll bean 160k
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I had a thread going about clunking and fwd fuse to isolate problems, but cant find it.
The car doesnt make the horrible bang bang bang any more. In fact, it doesnt make noise at all. The shop checked all cv joints, wheel bearings etc and can find nothing wrong. They suspect it is the final drive or part that is at the back of the trans. The car has a slight vibration. The shop didnt remove the rear drive shaft to inspect it.
I'm happy with this shop, honest. They dont do anything trans related and reffered me to a specialist.
I have options. If it is a final drive and he has to drop the trans to do it. I'm thinking just do a rebuilt trans to. Still not sure what it is and specialist hasnt even looked at the car yet, so im just speculating. The thing is, aside from the slight vibration, the car is fine although I know something really heinous has happened due to noises it was making. So, I'm thinking get tow ionsurance and just drive it till it fails? If the final drive fails does it take the trans down with it? does it matter? If they can fix the final drive for a thousand or do a new trans and the final drive for 2500, I'm thinking just do it all together. We love the h6.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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12,391 Posts
if it's in the rear of the vehicle as stated in your other thread and insinuated here, it's not the final drive of the transmission which is in the front of the vehicle.

Subaru rear differentials rarely fail. if you did suspect it - drain the fluid and check for debris - it'll have chunks in it if it's that bad and likely low on oil, otherwise they simply don't fail.

i'd suspect a CV axle but the rears almost never fail. the only way that would be likely is if the axle was ever replaced or rebooted - signs of new axle or boots/clamps in the rear would suggest this. have a quick peak - takes 30 seconds.

FWD fuse helps in some cases but it doesn't work like you'd think - it changes the loading and is not always a definitive test just because something happens different in or out of FWD mode.

temp guns will isolate wheel bearings. drive it and hit both rear hubs through the wheel spokes. a hotter average side points to wheel bearings. that's the best test for Subaru's in my experience. i've seen bad bearings have zero play on the vehicle which is the traditional test.

if the trans or front diff (final drive) fails the most common option is to simply get a used one.

a proper diagnosis is your best bet rather than just guessing.
 
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