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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yeah, i found one that has a neat story to tell.

Commuter car from Hightstown NJ to Edison NJ, hence the miles.

263,000 miles. On the original engine and transmission

Full service history, almost every part done with an OE parts, has a bible of documentation.


Only things wrong with it: A/C Condenser is leaky and it needs a balljoint (it includes the subaru dealer part for the ball joint just has to be popped in on friday by a friend of mine)
 

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2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2011 WRX, 2015 Legacy 3.6r loaded and a 2016 Camaro 2SS.
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123 Posts
Not to sound like a jerk, but I don't get buying these cars with over 200k and then spending money to keep them running. IMHO. Sometimes if you add up what you are spending, a new car is more cost effective.
 

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'17 OB Touring
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Not to sound like a jerk...Sometimes if you add up what you are spending, a new car is more cost effective.
You might be close to doing just that.

A 15 year old car is in a different universe than a new Outback. We don't know the OP's situation but he probably bought what he wants/needs. I doubt if he will spend new OB money ($30K+) keeping it on the road.

BTW, nice car, Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's in really nice shape, and has plenty of life left. It was used as a turnpike commuter by a guy who works for the EPA. Also the price was sub 2000 bucks. It doesn't need much at all, and I can do the rust repair myself.
 

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2008 OB Limited 2.5i, Portland OR USA
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I don't get buying these cars with over 200k and then spending money to keep them running. IMHO. Sometimes if you add up what you are spending, a new car is more cost effective.
I'm not sure what financial argument you're employing to make this argument, but it isn't valid.

OP paid less for this car than just the interest for a couple of years on a $30k new OB. There's essentially no depreciation left to drop the car's value. Scheduled maintenance will be similar, replacement parts maintenance is higher, and yes, there's some risk of a major issue coming up. But it was a highway commuter car, he has a sheaf of documentation from the one and only owner this car has ever known, and the experience of this forum to say 300k is not unusual.

It was a good choice if it fits what the OP wants.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm not sure what financial argument you're employing to make this argument, but it isn't valid.

OP paid less for this car than just the interest for a couple of years on a $30k new OB. There's essentially no depreciation left to drop the car's value. Scheduled maintenance will be similar, replacement parts maintenance is higher, and yes, there's some risk of a major issue coming up. But it was a highway commuter car, he has a sheaf of documentation from the one and only owner this car has ever known, and the experience of this forum to say 300k is not unusual.

It was a good choice if it fits what the OP wants.
I could have waited and bought something with lower miles, but with more rust on it. People want 2400 bucks for ones with more rust and lower miles. The car is also not my DD, I am an over the road truck driver, the car will sit for 4-6 weeks at a time before i drive it again, in 4 years my 1996 ford went from 89,000 to 115,000 miles. The body is sound, the engine purrs like a kitten, transmission feels right. It's getting a new headgasket, timing belt, clutch, water pump and a full valve adjustment this winter. It has the full service history, for example he has replaced the propshaft with a OE subaru part. He also has the OE subaru ball joint that needs to be replaced, but he didn't have time to do. Once i take full posession of it, i should share a photo of just how much stuff there is in the service records
 
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