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99 Subie Outback in Red, JDM motor
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Discussion Starter #1
My neighbor and I finally pulled the 2.5 out of my '99 Outback... I now have it mounted on an engine stand in my garage, what a sight! Anyways, I know I need to remove the cams to get to the headbolts, but first I need to get the crank pulley off so I can get the center timing belt cover off to remove the timing belt. It doesn't want to budge. Suggestions?

With that being said, I know I need to replace the headgaskets which is why we pulled it in the first place, but what else do I need to replace? I need to change out the flywheel and clutch since they are worn and UGLY looking. It didn't have a check engine light on when we pulled it, so everything else seemed fine besides the overheating. I'm worried about pulling out the cams since I've never taken heads apart. Is the process labor intensive and stressful?

For anyone else planning on attempting to do this themselves at home, I would say it only took me 2.5 hours to get the motor to the point of being able to pull it out of the bay, I am a novice and had only worked on Hondas before so don't be afraid! Anyways, thanks in advance for any and all replies...

-Bud
 

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2013 Outback 3.6L Limited with EyeSight
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218 Posts
Best tip I can give you is to get some help from an expert so things won't get messed up somewhere along the line.
 

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if you have an impact gun it will make short work of getting the bolt off. if not, find somethiing big to keep the flywheel from rotating. this will stop the pulley from turning when you loosen it.

do you have a manual?? pulling the heads is easy. make sure to keep tack of all the shims and which valve they came from. they vary in thickness and you should put them back where they came from.

if you are up for a timing belt change, do it now and the water pump also.
 

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2000 Outback Limited, Dual Range 5 Speed
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904 Posts
Bolt a metal type strap to the flywheel using the clutch bolts and engine block to hold the flywheel still while you remove the crank bolt, could also use it to loosen the flywheel bolts.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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17,625 Posts
let's see, some items I read about you might consider/search on;

1. new cam seals

2. re-seal back of oil pump

3. re-seal oil separator plate

4. use Subaru turbo headgaskets or Six Star multi-layer steel

5. Aisin waterpumps are good


Hopefully, one of the gurus will be along to help you but, you should definitely do some reading before proceeding.
 

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288 Posts
Here is reference to fsm.www.main.experiencetherave.com - /subaru_manual_scans/
Read the engine and T belt sections thoroughly.
Do NOT remove the valve shims if at all possible. If you have to, they must be kept and replaced in the EXACT order and place they came from (zip lock bags).
Do search on T belt replace. You'll find a lot of info.
12 pt 14mm socket of good quailty for head bolts.
In the future it is always easier if you break the crank bolt free first.

O.
 

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2006 Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT, 1984 Porsche 944
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277 Posts
Careful removing the crankbolt. The torque required will easily tip the engine stand. It'd be best to put it on the ground.
 

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I just found two longer bolts with the same thread for the flywheel and put a bar between them to hold the crankshaft.

Go to Subaru and get a new oil separator plate. The factory is plastic and the new ones are metal. I used the MLS gaskets from felpro with success. I haven't heard of anybody having trouble with them.

The camshafts have a flat spot under the valve cover that you can put a wrench on to hold them while you remove the pulley bolts. As someone else said, be very careful not to mix up the cam bucket shims. I did, but I used a feeler gauge to check the fit on each one. The camshafts and cam locks are stamped as to their location. The cams will be stamped something like RE for right exhaust or LE for left exhaust, etc. the cam caps will be stamped E or I for exhaust or intake with a number for the cylinder they're above.

Replace the front seal at the oil pump, the oil pump gasket, rear seal, separator plate timing belt, tensioner, pulleys and water pump. I bought a complete felpro head gasket set off of Ebay cheap that came with all the valve cover gaskets, etc.

I also bought timing belt, water pump, etc. as a kit off of Ebay.

Good luck, be patient.
 

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99 Subie Outback in Red, JDM motor
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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you Cargue for the advice! I will be tackling the heads this coming weekend so wish me luck.

I also picked up a 1996 2.5 DOHC for $220 bucks complete! The guy I bought it from was very friendly and was open and honest about the motor. Said it overheated on his way home, had it towed home, replaced the thermostat, radiator before finding out it was the head gaskets that were bad. Said he never overheated for an extended amount of time. If my heads are cracked I have a backup set now. If mine are fine, I plan on replacing the head gaskets on this spare motor and re-listing it on craigslist. This was the first 2.5 I had found on craigslist in the past year for sale so I jumped on it.
 

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......I also picked up a 1996 2.5 DOHC for $220 bucks complete! ....... This was the first 2.5 I had found on craigslist in the past year for sale so I jumped on it.
Get a good price. 96 heads with HLA's are rarer and more desirable.

O.
 
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