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ok, I know this sounds crazy but I've owned my XT since October of 2004 and I only have 1600 miles on it. Should I wait until I get to 3000 miles before I change the oil or would it be best to do it now because it's been over 3 months.

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The length of time between changes is irrelevant if you drive your vehicle on a regular basis, I'd say at least once a week. That entire "change your oil every 3 months or 3000 miles" is a load of BS if you ask me, especially the 3 month part. Oil will stay and remain good even if you don't use it, it only breaks down WITH useage not time ;)

Honestly I only change my oil every 5000 miles, with standard petro oil I use Castrol GTX. 5000 miles is a good change point for a good oil such as that. For synthetics I use Mobil 1, I change that every 5000 miles also although I'm sure it would be good until at least 10,000.

It all depends on how you run your car when you drive it. If you drive hard, change every 3000-5000 miles, drive easy, change every 5000-10,000. Thats just my opinion so take it as you will :)
 

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j--

i agree with Hero, the time is mostly irrelevant unelss the car has sat idle for the whole period.

i would go ahead and change it now tho, due to car being new. new engines give off a lot of metal shavings etc (mostly microscopic) as they break in. ideally, it is a good idea to change it for first time at abt 600 miles with new or rebuilt engine, then again after a couple of thou, then go to normal intervals.

most mechanics will tell you this, esp if they build engines. the dealer will tell you not to worry about it, but to be sure to come see them about a new car in 3-4 years.....yeah, sure, just like there is no head gasket problem and all Subies smell like gas leaks in cold weather......
 

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Bruce makes a good point about new engines, recently I had a idear on this matter.

The next time I buy a new car what I'm going to try is to change the oil after 1000 miles. Then change the oil every 3000 miles until the car has 10,000 miles. Then use synthetic oil and continue to change it out every 5000 miles. Thats my idear... :)
 

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That's pretty much mirrors the schedule I'm on--I made my first change at 1500 and my second at 3000. I'll do another at 6000, 9000, and then I plan to switch over to synth at 12,000.
 

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Be careful about this -

Some manufacturers such as Acura puts in additives to help the break-in process, so you should really not change the oil for as long as possible (until the scheduled change).

Subaru doesn't do this, so it doesn't matter, but it depends on the manufacturer.


Hero Boots said:
Bruce makes a good point about new engines, recently I had a idear on this matter.

The next time I buy a new car what I'm going to try is to change the oil after 1000 miles. Then change the oil every 3000 miles until the car has 10,000 miles. Then use synthetic oil and continue to change it out every 5000 miles. Thats my idear... :)
 

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Our local dealer (Select Subaru -- Post Falls, Idaho) throws in a free oil change at 1,000 miles on all new cars they sell. They say it is to help the engine by getting rid of any initial break-in particles in the oil.
 

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skipatroller said:
Our local dealer (Select Subaru -- Post Falls, Idaho) throws in a free oil change at 1,000 miles on all new cars they sell. They say it is to help the engine by getting rid of any initial break-in particles in the oil.
{In the Voice of a Carnie} WE HAVE A WINNAH!!!

Well if a dealer is doing this I think that proves the case and point that it is only healthy for your car to change out the factory oil at 1000 miles.
 

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i'm not sure it was even a case that needed proving. every top engine builder (whose interest is in you being happy with their megabucks engine and making most hp/having longest life) will tell you this, whether the factory will or not.

i'm skeptical of some magic break-in gunk, but Honda does tend to do things differently and to know what they're doing. who else would make undersquare engines that rev to 8000+? is there any reason you couldn't get another container of the magic gunk and add it AFTER that first oil change....?
 

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cptoversteer said:
i'm not sure it was even a case that needed proving. every top engine builder (whose interest is in you being happy with their megabucks engine and making most hp/having longest life) will tell you this, whether the factory will or not.

i'm skeptical of some magic break-in gunk, but Honda does tend to do things differently and to know what they're doing. who else would make undersquare engines that rev to 8000+? is there any reason you couldn't get another container of the magic gunk and add it AFTER that first oil change....?
Unfortunately no, it doesn't have it.

Also, my 8400 redline rpm Type R has been eating oil a lot :( pretty much since the first day i bought it. I average about 800-1000 miles before i have to add a pint or a quart. Not sure what the deal is, the car only has 45000 miles... ok, maybe i did rev to 8400 rpm a lot during the first year after the 600 mile break-in period :) Not sure, there is no leak (from observing on the bottom of the engine) it seems, so whatever "burn" must be occuring within the engine itself. it also could be that i run synthetic, and synthetic might be too slick for the engine to hold and might have blasted them out of the exhaust :)
 

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cptoversteer said:
who else would make undersquare engines that rev to 8000+?
Any manufacturer who cannot produce an engine with adequate torque...

sduford said:
My dealer did a similar thing. The first 3 oil changes are free and they do the first one at 1600 Kms (1000 miles), then at 6000 Kms and very 6K after that.
ARGH!!! The metric system... my mind is becoming scrambled :banghead:

paganini said:


Unfortunately no, it doesn't have it.

Also, my 8400 redline rpm Type R has been eating oil a lot :(
Do you have a bunch of Type R stickers on your car?

***I'm sorry that was pretty low but I always have to ask, feel free to :xnuts:
 

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Hehe, just 3 stickers, all "stock" from Acura :)

As far as torque is concerned -- yes, the torque is low, but it only weighs 2600 lbs. The new Lotus Elise runs on a Toyota Engine with even lower torque but it weighs 1900 lbs and goes from 0 to 60 in 4.7 seconds for the Lotus.

The thing is, with 8400 rpm as the redline, most other drivers shift to second gear around 6000 rpm, and Type R's can hold it until 8400 to shift. Basically what you'll see in a race between WRX and Type R would be that initiallY WRX will get a jump, then type R catches up as WRX shifts, then lags and then catches up.


Hero Boots said:


Any manufacturer who cannot produce an engine with adequate torque...



ARGH!!! The metric system... my mind is becoming scrambled :banghead:



Do you have a bunch of Type R stickers on your car?

***I'm sorry that was pretty low but I always have to ask, feel free to :xnuts:
 

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Hero, i don't think the guys with REAL Type Rs need the extra stickers, their cars do the talking...

but i really question whether a Type R will run with a car that has a minimum of 50 more hp and who knows how much more torque with only 400 or so lbs more to haul. you must be thinking of those overweight OBXTs....:D
 

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OBXT weighs about 800 lbs more than Type R though :)

Anyway, i was able to easily kill a BMW 330Ci (220 hp/210 lb-ft i think @ 3200 lbs) from 0 to about 90 mph. Against another 330Ci from 40 to 90 mph, was able to pull at least 2-3 car length on it.

But my R isn't reallystock any more... it has a comptech icebox + a japanese spec Spoon header, so a gain of about 15-20 hp, and increase in torque throughout. Still that makes it around 210-215 hp car with probably 145 ft-lbs of toque @ 2600 lbs.

I did get beaten by a BMW M3 (not the latest one, the previous one with 240 hp) before the modifcation, the guy SLOWLY walked on me at 70-80mph.

On a 0-80 mph run against a Honda S2000, i was able to get about a car length on it. S2000 hits redline at 8900 rpm with 240 hp.

Against a stock Outback should be interesting.... R should hang with it from a roll, but from a stop who knows.

Type R aren't slow... they're just slow from a dead stop :)

But what am I kidding -- i am married now, and hence, an AUTOMATIC OBXT :(((((( (now if it was manual or better yet, a manual forrester, it'd rock!) probably need to sell the R for a second hand family sedan at some point :(((((((
 

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paganini said:


Unfortunately no, it doesn't have it.

Also, my 8400 redline rpm Type R has been eating oil a lot :( pretty much since the first day i bought it. I average about 800-1000 miles before i have to add a pint or a quart. Not sure what the deal is, the car only has 45000 miles... ok, maybe i did rev to 8400 rpm a lot during the first year after the 600 mile break-in period :) Not sure, there is no leak (from observing on the bottom of the engine) it seems, so whatever "burn" must be occuring within the engine itself. it also could be that i run synthetic, and synthetic might be too slick for the engine to hold and might have blasted them out of the exhaust :)
Sounds like you never broke in your rings. When did you change to synthetic?
Additives in factory oil from Acura...Just put a quart of trans fluid in your oil and you have the formula.

Change oil when you get home from the dealer or at least before it hits 100 miles to remove particals. Again after 500 miles (same reason). Change again at 1500 miles for some clean golden stuff. Then at 3500 to begin the normal regiment of oil changes. Then if you like, you can go to Synthetic after about 6K miles. I wouldn't do it any sooner because that invites oil consumption of the rings.
Has anyone seen the Motomans break-in procedure? It's a good read. BTW, don't baby your engine! Drive it like you will for the rest of its life durring break in. You want horse power? Break it in hard.
 

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I changed to synthetic ~4000 miles, so perhaps it's too soon.

However, after reading the web, it seems that a lot of Type R owners have issues with Mobil 1 synthetic being consumed at much higher rate than normal oil or other synthetics.

My 45k mile service is coming up and i'm going to take it over to the dealer -- they'll change it back to normal oil and we'll see....

lots of little thing swith it -- humming steering wheel (probably needs lubrication unless the CV boots are fragged), "noisy valve" sounds, needs valve clearance adjustment, etc. Still runs hard though :)

(it does run a little rich -- smoke coming from the exhaust at VTEC rpm range)

Actually, if the WRX was out at the time i got my R, i woudl have gotten the WRX. It came out 5 months after -- if i knew i probably would've waited.


nedro said:

Sounds like you never broke in your rings. When did you change to synthetic?
Additives in factory oil from Acura...Just put a quart of trans fluid in your oil and you have the formula.

Change oil when you get home from the dealer or at least before it hits 100 miles to remove particals. Again after 500 miles (same reason). Change again at 1500 miles for some clean golden stuff. Then at 3500 to begin the normal regiment of oil changes. Then if you like, you can go to Synthetic after about 6K miles. I wouldn't do it any sooner because that invites oil consumption of the rings.
Has anyone seen the Motomans break-in procedure? It's a good read. BTW, don't baby your engine! Drive it like you will for the rest of its life durring break in. You want horse power? Break it in hard.
 

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As far as break-in -- if Moto man's correct, i definitely broke in the engine within the first 100 miles the way he says it :) (yeah, i hit 8400 rpm on the first day i got the car, then i babied it fora while).
 

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OK then, as much as I get chided for always bringing up my Mazda in these forums, WWYD if you were me.... My other car (Mazda6) is 15 months old and has 3700 miles (~6000 km) on it, and I don't believe Mazda puts anything special in the factory oil; I had it changed at 3 months/400 miles (~650km), 6 months/1000 miles (~1600km), and 1 year/3500 miles (~5600km). Like a lemming, I'll probably go in for the next one this spring despite having only a couple hundred miles since the last one.

Part of me feels there's a certain "insurance" value to changing the oil every so many months, re: the factory warranty, so that if there's a problem in the future, they can't void the warranty by saying "well, you waited 8 months between oil changes!" So I'm wondering, where is the breaking point, where time takes it toll and breaks down the oil, even if it only has a few hundred miles on it? Newer owner manuals always seem to delineate service wrt miles, but never time.

The 6 uses a "semi-synthetic" and I've always had it changed at the local Mazda dealer.

Moderators, feel free to delete this post if off-topic, but I respect the opinions of the participants here and appreciate any input they have to offer.

Thanks,
-Peter
 
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