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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, all.

First time Subaru owner and first subaruoutback.org post.

I picked up this 2001 Outback LTD, 5 speed, on Tuesday for $900! It needs a few tweaks to get up to par: radiator, knock sensor, windshield, some general restoration, etc.

I appreciate this forum's plethora of knowledge, which I've already taken advantage of, and can't wait to start working on and enjoying my Outback! Adventure awaits...

Thanks for having me!
 

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2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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California plates there,

where the ladies wear bikinis in winter, and the cars don't rust.

miles on that? (everything including the seats look mint).
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
They must not be very attracted to this thing... but not a spec of rust.

180k. Just broken in, I suppose.

It has a few dents and dings but the interior is near perfect indeed!

Cheers
 

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make sure you don't put things like coffee cups in that dash mounted cup holder. they spill into the dash (hvac, and stereo head unit)

it is kind of flimsy too, people use to park smaller cell phones in them.

the ones in the back seat should not be opened at all,...easy to kick with a shoe and many are not intact at this late date.

if you want a center console with 2 cup holders look for a part out, of a 2002-2004.

so then you have a total of 3 front cup holders.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good tip! I love how cross-compatible OB's and Subaru's are in general. The more cupholders the better no doubt.
 

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Silver: 2009 Subaru Outback Limited Edition, 2.5 Liter EJ25, Automatic. Gem: 2002 Subaru Outback LL Bean Edition, 3.0 liter EZ30D, Automatic
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I picked up this 2001 Outback LTD, 5 speed, on Tuesday for $900! It needs a few tweaks to get up to par: radiator, knock sensor, windshield, some general restoration, etc.
Congratulations and welcome.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but just a "heads" up, head gasket leaks act a lot like radiator issues in these cars. I thought my cooling system was failing and it was the Head Gaskets. They don't have the symptoms that other cars do when these fail, and that price is really low.

Hope it's not, but it's very common for these cars at that age. There is life after having them or the engine replaced though.
 

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I did not mention head gaskets, as at 180,000 on a EJ251 / Ej252 they have likely been done....(rare would be one that someone could run that long without oil leaks necessitating using a tray under the car).

my own EJ251 leaked oil from a cam, the rear main seal, and then a drivers side head gasket before the work was begun.

edit: Ej251 = automatic
Ej252 the engine number used on manuals from 2000-2002, until they just merged #s in 2003 to just Ej251 for this engine type.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Congratulations and welcome.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but just a "heads" up, head gasket leaks act a lot like radiator issues in these cars. I thought my cooling system was failing and it was the Head Gaskets. They don't have the symptoms that other cars do when these fail, and that price is really low.

Hope it's not, but it's very common for these cars at that age. There is life after having them or the engine replaced though.
Radiator appears to only be leaking from the previous owner's poor patch job with some sort of epoxy/cement. Odd, since other more important maintenance items were recently done professionally like the timing belt. Even if the hg is out or the engine needs a rebuild, it wont surprise or disappoint me too bad. I got lucky in finding the "perfect" OB in the color/options/trans that I was looking for. I wont mind investing (or "disinvesting") in it to keep it long term.

The first thing you need to fix is that interior. It's all upside down! I don't know how you can drive like that?

Nice score!
I'll make a DIY. Easy fix!

I did my habitual craigslist search after work and caught it right as it was posted. Called the onwer, hooked up the trailer and booked it to Hemet. I wasn't the only prospecting buyer, but speed was on my side.

I did not mention head gaskets, as at 180,000 on a EJ251 / Ej252 they have likely been done....(rare would be one that someone could run that long without oil leaks necessitating using a tray under the car).

my own EJ251 leaked oil from a cam, the rear main seal, and then a drivers side head gasket before the work was begun.

edit: Ej251 = automatic
Ej252 the engine number used on manuals from 2000-2002, until they just merged #s in 2003 to just Ej251 for this engine type.
No oil leaks from this car. just some coolant dripping down the radiator from the patch job.

I know most BMW engine names/codes because that's my background, but I guess it's time to learn the subi ones to fit in. Cheers, friends!
 

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Radiator appears to only be leaking from the previous owner's poor patch job with some sort of epoxy/cement. Odd, since other more important maintenance items were recently done professionally like the timing belt. Even if the hg is out or the engine needs a rebuild, it wont surprise or disappoint me too bad. I got lucky in finding the "perfect" OB in the color/options/trans that I was looking for. I wont mind investing (or "disinvesting") in it to keep it long term.



I'll make a DIY. Easy fix!

I did my habitual craigslist search after work and caught it right as it was posted. Called the onwer, hooked up the trailer and booked it to Hemet. I wasn't the only prospecting buyer, but speed was on my side.



No oil leaks from this car. just some coolant dripping down the radiator from the patch job.

I know most BMW engine names/codes because that's my background, but I guess it's time to learn the subi ones to fit in. Cheers, friends!


just chuck that radiator, :surprise: why would anyone that loves a car patch a radiator, (heard professional people doing it on unique antiques or big weird trucks,...but).

$90 buys a new aftermarket one.....and you don't want to be nursing this thing along ruining a aluminum engine that is easy to melt, or have it crap out leaving you in on the side of the highway waiting on a flat bed...(subaru AWD = NEED flatbeds.,...no 2 down towing,

...although your now antiquated old school manual could go happy down the street 4 wheels down behind a motorhome).
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
just chuck that radiator, :surprise: why would anyone that loves a car patch a radiator, (heard professional people doing it on unique antiques or big weird trucks,...but).

$90 buys a new aftermarket one.....and you don't want to be nursing this thing along ruining a aluminum engine that is easy to melt, or have it crap out leaving you in on the side of the highway waiting on a flat bed...(subaru AWD = NEED flatbeds.,...no 2 down towing,

...although your now antiquated old school manual could go happy down the street 4 wheels down behind a motorhome).
The previous owner patched the radiator. NOT ME! :laugh: I already have a new one ready to go in. I would never stoop so low as to patch a rad!

I'm aware of the limitations of the awd for towing and running mis-matched tire sizes. The last thing i want is to hurt my new (to me) car!

Cheers.
 

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Heh. I attempted to JB Weld a cracked radiator once. It was on a free (except for all the money I burned trying to keep it running) half wrecked hand me down Oldsmobile.

It did not help. One of the many new parts that went to the scrapyard on that heap was a brank new rad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Test drive success. Except when I got back and popped the hood, I was greeted with a hot stream of coolant spraying from the leaky rad! SHE'S A SQUIRTER! While her juices were flowing I swapped on the new headlights. (See pic). I'll save the new rad install for tomorrow when she's less hot and bothered...

Goodnight!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
New Radiator went in and she's running clean and cool. Replaced the thermostat as well for peace of mind. Order a TON of parts. This isn't a $900 OB anymore... LOL

More progress soon!
 

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New Radiator went in and she's running clean and cool. Replaced the thermostat as well for peace of mind. Order a TON of parts. This isn't a $900 OB anymore... LOL

More progress soon!
hope that was a OEM thermostat ,....or a stant exact stat . (the only aftermarket known to work/ flow enough).

and a new OEM rad cap. no substitues for that,
...aftermarkets even the ones that come with the radidator are no good as they vent and pressurize in psi, whereas the subaru one is rated in kpa.

and if it sucks buying at a local dealer, buy on line from subaru dealers to save some time/ dough.
 
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hope that was a OEM thermostat ,....or a stant exact stat . (the only aftermarket known to work/ flow enough).

and a new OEM rad cap. no substitues for that,
...aftermarkets even the ones that come with the radidator are no good as they vent and pressurize in psi, whereas the subaru one is rated in kpa.

and if it sucks buying at a local dealer, buy on line from subaru dealers to save some time/ dough.
I luckily did go OEM on the thermostat and gasket. Did not know about aftermarkets being not good enough!

I can swap over the old rad cap in the mean time but I'll make sure to order an oem cap asap.

Subaru Part Wholesale has been my source for oem stuff. Recommend any other online distributors as well?

Cheers.
 

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I luckily did go OEM on the thermostat and gasket. Did not know about aftermarkets being not good enough!

I can swap over the old rad cap in the mean time but I'll make sure to order an oem cap asap.

Subaru Part Wholesale has been my source for oem stuff. Recommend any other online distributors as well?

Cheers.
a couple real brick subaru dealers are on amazon, (one of them is in phoenix,... so close for shipping even if without prime). amazon might have like 8 different dealers trying to sell you the same rad cap. (those are cheap online and easy to stock as subaru used the same cap on like every car for 10-15 years).


I have been pricing things with quirkparts (in quincy mass,)

our own sponsor subaru online parts, =of hicksville, long island, NY
they offer free shipping on this thread:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/121-subaruonlineparts-com/414346-free-shipping-code.html

and subaru parts warehouse (preimer of branford, CT). that last one usually 25 and 30% off sales occasionally (like Memorial day and Halloween)
https://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/ their software for finding parts numbers is harder then the other 2 I posted, so I usually go to the other 2 first and then to subaru parts warehouse with the part #.

I have priced things but never found a winner on Hueberger in colorado (the biggest subaru dealer in the universe),
...I live in NY, so inbound shipping is costly. vs. the three I already listed.
Heuberger Motors - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
a couple real brick subaru dealers are on amazon, (one of them is in phoenix,... so close for shipping even if without prime). amazon might have like 8 different dealers trying to sell you the same rad cap. (those are cheap online and easy to stock as subaru used the same cap on like every car for 10-15 years).


I have been pricing things with quirkparts (in quincy mass,)

our own sponsor subaru online parts, =of hicksville, long island, NY
they offer free shipping on this thread:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/121-subaruonlineparts-com/414346-free-shipping-code.html

and subaru parts warehouse (preimer of branford, CT). that last one usually 25 and 30% off sales occasionally (like Memorial day and Halloween)
https://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/ their software for finding parts numbers is harder then the other 2 I posted, so I usually go to the other 2 first and then to subaru parts warehouse with the part #.

I have priced things but never found a winner on Hueberger in colorado (the biggest subaru dealer in the universe),
...I live in NY, so inbound shipping is costly. vs. the three I already listed.
Heuberger Motors - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
I really appreciate all your help, eagleeye! :smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So the adventure has been continuing with no updates! Here's the current situation on my Outback.

Gave the cooling system some help: rad, thermostat, oem cap. New knock sensor was in, CEL off. Car was running at perfect temps on my 30min test drive. I was ready to smog! 91 octane, some fuel additive for good measure. On the way to my smog station doing my typical "get the cats nice a hot" route: CEL comes on. I go back home to read it. TA-friggin-DAH it's for the catalytic converter! :)

I did some reading and decide to replace the front O2 first instead of forking over $300 for a universal cat to weld in during the spare time that I do not have. Last night I'm ready to replace the sensor. I broke the O2 bung clean off trying to loosen it. Took the midpipe out, welded the bung back on, cut the wires on the O2 and got the threads to finally break with the impact while it was still hot from the juicy puddles I laid with the MIG... I was feeling good. :) Got the new O2 on. $40 on eBay! (https://goo.gl/DXfp3W) Reinstalled the midpipe and cleared the code.

I was ready to smog the car on my lunch break today. On my way to work this morning the CEL comes back on... AND, the car is now overheating again! I pulled over twice on my 15 minute commute to let it cool off before it got to the red. I luckily brought my code reader this morning in preparation for any codes popping up again. While my steamy hot pile of (fill in the blank) cooled off, I read the CEL and found a new code. The code for the cat is gone and in its place is code P1130.

P1130 - FRONT OXYGEN (A/F) SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (OPEN CIRCUIT)

I checked my connector on the O2 and all is tight there. No bent prongs either. Is my brand new eBay O2 bad?? Certainly not...
Should I replace my eBay sensor with an OEM one?

I doubt the O2 and the overheating problems are related. A faulty O2 should trip the computer to richen the mixture not lean it out... Right?

I previously found the HG (or possibly the rear main seal) to be leaking oil. No white smoke out the exhaust and no loss in coolant so it doesn't seem like the HG is to blame for the overheating. Coolant has no oil, oil has no coolant, yadda yadda... Water pump doesn't leak or make noise. Car was previously running cool right after the new rad, thermostat and rad cap. What gives?

Regardless, as my ownership of this car continues, the more problems it incurs. My $900 Subaru does't seem like much of a deal after all... But I'm not giving up!
 
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