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Discussion starter · #41 · (Edited)
Hi everyone,

I've been sitting on the Outback for too long... but last week I FINALLY set aside time to do the JDM swap. It took 2 days. One night to pull old motor and the next to put the new one back in! The motor I got from the importer had a different intake manifold, throttle body, etc and different hose connection locations for the AC and power steering.* Both motors had EGR so no fiddling with plugging it up on the new motor. I also installed a new clutch, flywheel, PP, PB, TOB, etc. I'm impressed with how easy this car is to work on! She passed smog with flying colors but I'm keeping all the old parts until I make sure everything is alright. The motor is smooth and has a quiet valvetrain with no check engine lights after about 300 miles of driving. Very happy to have saved this car! I bought some new Sparco Terra's with 215/75r16 General Grabbers but wanted to hold off on mounting them until the major work was finished. (see photo for how she sits right now)

In the downtime I also ordered Baja springs, KYB GR-2/Excel G shocks, shock mounts, just about every suspension bushing, camber correction kit, rear caster kit/trailing arm spacer, a rebuilt steering rack (current one leaks from the inner joints), new axles, pads and rotors and some other stuff I'm forgetting.

I'm more pshyched on this car now that it's running and driving perfectly and will be installing all this new stuff one of these weekends coming up.

Future mods/projects include tube frame bumpers, front skid plate, some sort of lighting upgrade, low range gearbox/transfercase (I know zero about this swap) and roof rack.

Thanks for the continued help!

*EDIT: Clarification on the swap - I installed the old intake manifold and accessories on the new (to me) engine.
 

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Discussion starter · #45 ·
Nice work on the Subie!!! :29:
Thanks!

Do you have rubbing issues with those tires in that size, or if not, how did you correct it?
I did have rubbing issues but I've remedied it. I removed the front mudflap/mudguard/whateveryoucallit. In the rear, the tire is close to the front of the arch so I modified and trimmed the bottom of the gold body cladding piece. If you do this, make sure to silicone it down or add another screw, because it's not held on very tight after trimming off the bottom which has a fastener. A lift kit with rear trailing arm spacers to correct the caster should give you no drama running this size; stock height pushing it for sure. Wheels are 16x7et50 by the way.

Great looking Outback!

Where did you buy Baja springs from?
Thank you!

I got them from Subaru Part Wholesale ( https://www.subarupartwholesale.com ). The P/N for the front is 20330AE64A (x2) and the P/N for the rear is 20380AE50A (x2). For all four coils shipped to me was about $195. The price may have changed because I've been sitting on these (no pun intended) for more than 6 months. Also, if I remember correctly, these might be springs for a Turbo Baja which I think is sprung slightly stiffer or has a higher ride height... It was months ago I did my research. I'll post my results here after installing though.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
BAD NEWS!

The new motor blew up. I was accelerating at a brisk pace merging onto the freeway and a crank bearing spun. Oil level is good, the correct oil was used and it didn't overheat. Luck of the draw I guess.

Not sure what my plan is next.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
GOOD NEWS!

Second Subaru, 2002 L.L. Bean, 1,500. 170k.

I decided to cut my losses with the Limited and start fresh. Going to be swapping some of the new parts to the Bean and selling the Limited as a complete, non running, car...

The Bean is cleaner on the outside and feels MUCH quicker. TB and waterpump were done at 140k. Slight leak near the oil filter housing. Any H6 specific problems I should look out for?

Cheers
 

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GOOD NEWS!

Second Subaru, 2002 L.L. Bean, 1,500. 170k.

I decided to cut my losses with the Limited and start fresh. Going to be swapping some of the new parts to the Bean and selling the Limited as a complete, non running, car...

The Bean is cleaner on the outside and feels MUCH quicker. TB and waterpump were done at 140k. Slight leak near the oil filter housing. Any H6 specific problems I should look out for?

Cheers
You stepped up with the EZ30D.

Transmission and center diff is the same as the H4 on the LL Bean.

The H6 oil cooler gasket, which is an O-ring similar to the oil filter, is the same as the H4 and can be purchased at any local parts store. If the counter person can't find it, tell them to look under the section for "oil cooler".

Check the valve cover for leaks occasionally. If you ever need to change them out, it's easier to lift up one side of the engine at a time to do them. Same with spark plugs. It gives you more room to work. If you ever do the plugs or valve cover gasket, be careful with the coil connectors, they tend to be brittle with age and the lock tab breaks.

Run the highest octane gasoline you can get for less knock, clean engine and fuel mileage. Poor in a can of Techron or Sea Foam every once in a while to control gum in the injectors and help to keep the combustion chamber clean.

Keep an eye on the temp. If it creeps up past the middle, shut it off immediately and check for leaks and coolant level. If the coolant is good, time for a thermostat. The thermostat is the same as the H4s. If this engine overheats to the point of a HG failure, it's not as cheap and easy as the H4.

The transmission oil filter is a spin on that is located behind the left front fog light. You drop the undercover under the light and you'll see it tucked up in the body of the car. Same spin on as the H4, just had to be remote due to the orientation of the exhaust pipes.

Keep the throttle body and PCV valve clean as with any car.

Takes 5.5 quarts every oil change and keep an eye on the level to gauge how much it uses between. Some its low, others its high. Depends a lot on type of oil and the condition of the PCV system.

If the alternator ever starts to act up, first check the battery, then the ground and positive cables, next the connection of the green plug on the alternator and the pins. If the alternator fails, you CAN NOT put an H4 alternator on it. It has to be an H6 alternator. They look the same but are wired different. ECM controls the alt on the H6.

It's a speed density tuned engine. No MAF sensor. It measures air flow through IAT and MAP. In this regard, a vacuum leak of minimal size may not be noticeable when driving and will not set a lean code but may effect other things like the EVAP purge, manifold runner, and cylinder balance.

If you don't know how old the fuel filter is, change it. Left front strut tower like the H4. The fuel pump cap tend to crack and pop the seal out and you'll lose fuel pressure. With a 170k miles on it, it may/may not have happened yet. If/when it does, you can get a fuel filter kit for a 2005 and change out your cap and seal for the plastic 2005 type. Just toss the filter that comes with it. Fuel pump is in the same position as the H4.

You can check out this thread: https://www.subaruoutback.org/forum...558-3-0-h6-timing-chain-guide-discussion.html Plenty of H6 owners have gone hundreds of thousands of miles without issues. This thread will give you a heads up on any tapping/knocking noises that may occur.

Otherwise, it's a trouble free engine.

If you want a little better throttle and low end, get with Ed at XRT for a tune. He's on this forum, https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/48121-west_minist.html He rewrote my original ROM (3 reflashes) prior to the supercharger installation that netted improved low end and my fuel mileage went up 2 mpg. If I remember correctly it was a VE, fuel and ignition map adjustment for the first trials.
 
GOOD NEWS!

Second Subaru, 2002 L.L. Bean, 1,500. 170k.

I decided to cut my losses with the Limited and start fresh. Going to be swapping some of the new parts to the Bean and selling the Limited as a complete, non running, car...

The Bean is cleaner on the outside and feels MUCH quicker. TB and waterpump were done at 140k. Slight leak near the oil filter housing. Any H6 specific problems I should look out for?

Cheers
these have timing chains.

maybe they did some maint on them at 140,000 miles with the water pump.
(swapping the tensioners and possibly swapping chains, is only done if someone hears some tapping inside the cover).

_______

the oil cooler gasket at the oil filter leaks. the whole cooler needs to come off and get on the bench: this permits a good inspection/ cleaning with a pick,
some new liquid gasket goo, and a new gasket.
I just replaced the gasket with the cooler on the car. and it leaked worse.
______

but other than that: remember to pump 93 octane. and to avoid idling. (H6 get very thirsty parked or in crawling traffic)
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
No warranty of any kind on the engine?
these have timing chains.

maybe they did some maint on them at 140,000 miles with the water pump.
(swapping the tensioners and possibly swapping chains, is only done if someone hears some tapping inside the cover).

_______

the oil cooler gasket at the oil filter leaks. the whole cooler needs to come off and get on the bench: this permits a good inspection/ cleaning with a pick,
some new liquid gasket goo, and a new gasket.
I just replaced the gasket with the cooler on the car. and it leaked worse.
______

but other than that: remember to pump 93 octane. and to avoid idling. (H6 get very thirsty parked or in crawling traffic)
I'll never know for sure because I have no receipts for any of the work done to the swapped in motor. Glad to get away from the troublesome timing belts of the H4 though...

The leak isn't too bad, I'll just leave it. I've been checking the oil every time I fuel up (91 is the best I can get locally) and I've added maybe half a quart in 4-5 fill-ups.

I greatly appreciate your input!
 
.

The leak isn't too bad, I'll just leave it. I've been checking the oil every time I fuel up (91 is the best I can get locally) and I've added maybe half a quart in 4-5 fill-ups.

I greatly appreciate your input!
advice as you are someplace that is so warm:

at next oil change switch to a 10w30 high miles full synthetic. such may swell the gaskets that leak, and the thicker stuff may do you some good.

and then as you are getting closer to the change interval switch to adding a cheaper 10w30 as it will be coming out soon anyway.
 
GOOD NEWS!

Second Subaru, 2002 L.L. Bean, 1,500. 170k.

I decided to cut my losses with the Limited and start fresh. Going to be swapping some of the new parts to the Bean and selling the Limited as a complete, non running, car...

The Bean is cleaner on the outside and feels MUCH quicker. TB and waterpump were done at 140k. Slight leak near the oil filter housing. Any H6 specific problems I should look out for?

Cheers
That would be the oil cooler gasket. It is similar to the oil filter gasket and can be purchased at any part store. To replace it, you take the two 10mm bolts out of the cooler pipe brackets that run along the front of the engine. Remove the filter. With a deep 24mm socket, take out the large banjo bolt that holds the cooler to the block. The cooler pipe and hoses will come down a little with the cooler allowing you to remove the old gasket and put in the new one. I use a small curved pic to work the old one out. It's a tight fit, but it'll work. Just be careful that the gasket stays in the ridge of the cooler when you put it back up. Tighten the banjo bolt good and reinstall the filter and put the screws back in the cooler pipe brackets. Top off the oil.

The other option is to remove the cooler hoses from the cooler assembly, but you'll have to have something to clamp the hoses closed so you don't lose a lot of coolant, and then since the hoses fit on the cooler tightly, it's sometimes a bugger getting the hoses off without tearing them.
 
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