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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased a 1998 Subaru Outback in late May, and I have put up with the 2 blown out rear speakers and their rattling until now. I purchased 2 pairs of

Amazon.com: Infinity 629I 225W (Peak) Two-Way Speakers (Pair)- 6-1/2 x 6-3/4 -Inch: Car Electronics

and I have this head unit from my old car:
Pioneer DEH-P4000UB CD receiver at Crutchfield.com

My current set up is 100% stock, and yesterday I noticed there was a stock 80 watt Subaru subwoofer/amp underneath the driver seat. My main question is, will I need to buy an amp to power my new door speakers, and if so, could i just simply replace the current 80 watt amp with another one without rewiring anything.

Also, I am trying to keep my budget under $200, so that leaves me with about 60 bucks if i need to get an amp/cheap sub
 

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If I understand correctly, you will have four aftermarket speakers and a headunit.

The specs of the radio you linked to supports four speakers.

Generically speaking... Get a radio wiring harness from BestBuy, WalMart, etc and wire that bad boy up!

You may need to cut/splice the aftermarket speakers to use the existing factory wires but should be easy.

I am not sure if the factory sub will work. Sometimes they do sometimes they don't. Depends on the setup.

Good luck and enjoy!

Joel


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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You shouldn't need the amp unless you plan on blasting the music. I put Infinity speakers in my 2012 and I'm hearing sounds in songs that I've never heard before. They make wiring harnesses for the speakers, or you can splice them.
 

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You mentioned something very important, and that is that you have a stock amplifier. If that is the case, then your stock head unit speaker wires will go there first, and then out from the stock amp to the speakers.

If you connect your new Pioneer to the existing wires, then it will go to the amp first, and the stock amp will still be powering your speakers. If the stock amp is 80w (20x4?) then it won't be as power full as the Pioneer. You need to bypass the factory amp. They sell kits for this. You can also just figure out the wiring and do it your self. Better yet, if you feel a little ambitious, run new wire to the speakers your self. You can run a heavier gauge wire, maybe a 16awg, which will have less resistance then the chinsey factory wires. Also you won't have to splice anything. You just put the proper connectors on the new wire and you're good to go. That is what I would do.

You won't need an amp for the door speakers unless you want to take the system to the next level in volume and clarity. The best thing to do after you rewire the speakers is to add a sub. If you add an amp to replace the factory one you would need to rewire the power wiring as the current demands would likely be too much for the factory wiring. They don't allow much room for deviation from factory spec.

Finally, if you only have $60 to add a sub/amp then I recommend finding a used powered Bazooka tube. They won't win any SPL competitions but in a hatch back like yours they sound quite good. The sound will be balanced when powering your speakers from the head unit. They have efficient amps built into them as well so power wiring won't cost you an arm and a leg.

Craig



Craig
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You mentioned something very important, and that is that you have a stock amplifier. If that is the case, then your stock head unit speaker wires will go there first, and then out from the stock amp to the speakers.

If you connect your new Pioneer to the existing wires, then it will go to the amp first, and the stock amp will still be powering your speakers. If the stock amp is 80w (20x4?) then it won't be as power full as the Pioneer. You need to bypass the factory amp. They sell kits for this. You can also just figure out the wiring and do it your self. Better yet, if you feel a little ambitious, run new wire to the speakers your self. You can run a heavier gauge wire, maybe a 16awg, which will have less resistance then the chinsey factory wires. Also you won't have to splice anything. You just put the proper connectors on the new wire and you're good to go. That is what I would do.

You won't need an amp for the door speakers unless you want to take the system to the next level in volume and clarity. The best thing to do after you rewire the speakers is to add a sub. If you add an amp to replace the factory one you would need to rewire the power wiring as the current demands would likely be too much for the factory wiring. They don't allow much room for deviation from factory spec.

Finally, if you only have $60 to add a sub/amp then I recommend finding a used powered Bazooka tube. They won't win any SPL competitions but in a hatch back like yours they sound quite good. The sound will be balanced when powering your speakers from the head unit. They have efficient amps built into them as well so power wiring won't cost you an arm and a leg.

Craig



Craig
Thanks everyone for the quick replies!

So, If I were to choose the route of rewiring the speakers to bypass the factory amp, let me make sure I understand this correctly.

I should buy some 16 gauge speaker wire
Amazon.com: RCA AH1650SN 50 Ft. 16-Gauge Speaker Wire: Electronics

then, I will just replace the wires that run from the back of the head unit to the speakers.

What are the proper connectors?


and also, I was missing the harness that cam with my head unit, so i bought a new one of those, and a wiring harness for the subaru end. All I will have to do is solder those wires or crimp them together with crimp connectors based on their color codes
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm hoping this can help you... They don't list a 98 outback.

1998 Subaru Legacy Stereo Wiring Information

Joel
Thank you for this...kinda clears it up. So I bought the wiring harness for hooking up the head unit, but now for the colors going to the speakers, I connect those directly to the speakers using some extra wire that I bought?

Or do I still hook everything up to the wiring harness, then splice them on the other side of the wiring harness.

Sorry if these are stupid questions, but I have never seen the way it is wired...I may take a look at it today. I want to get started, but I am waiting til i get everything in the mail tomorrow
 

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The connections you will make from the Pioneer harness to the Subaru adapter harness are as follows:

12v+
12vACC+
GND
Illum
Power Antenna (if you have one)

The speaker wires you run will connect to the Pioneer harness and not the Subaru harness. You can solder or use connectors at the harness. The colours on the adapter harness and the pioneer harness should match but they will also be labelled so double check and you'll be fine.

At the speakers you will use spade connectors to attach the wires to the speaker terminals.

Red spade Connector Crimp Terminals insulated x 50 | eBay

Sometimes the speakers use a smaller size for the negative terminal. Check your speakers for the size of the terminals before you go connector shopping. Read the package for the size. I think 16awg is a blue connector. You can get connectors and wire at any hardware store. These just crimp onto the wire.

A word of caution... pay attention to the polarity of the wires. Choose a marking on your 16awg wire to be negative and use it through out the speakers. If you reverse one it will be out of phase and it cancel out all of your bass and cause terrible sound.

Good luck! Let us know how you do.

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The connections you will make from the Pioneer harness to the Subaru adapter harness are as follows:

12v+
12vACC+
GND
Illum
Power Antenna (if you have one)

The speaker wires you run will connect to the Pioneer harness and not the Subaru harness. You can solder or use connectors at the harness. The colours on the adapter harness and the pioneer harness should match but they will also be labelled so double check and you'll be fine.

At the speakers you will use spade connectors to attach the wires to the speaker terminals.

Red spade Connector Crimp Terminals insulated x 50 | eBay

Sometimes the speakers use a smaller size for the negative terminal. Check your speakers for the size of the terminals before you go connector shopping. Read the package for the size. I think 16awg is a blue connector. You can get connectors and wire at any hardware store. These just crimp onto the wire.

A word of caution... pay attention to the polarity of the wires. Choose a marking on your 16awg wire to be negative and use it through out the speakers. If you reverse one it will be out of phase and it cancel out all of your bass and cause terrible sound.

Good luck! Let us know how you do.

Craig

thank you again, I will be getting my speakers in the mail tomorrow, so I should be able to get started with getting exactly what else I need locally. I think I understand pretty well what I need to do once I get in there.

I will keep this thread updated with progress/pictures/questions
 

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Sourbeer55

Sounds like we both have goodies arriving tomorrow! Hope your installation goes well and sounds great!!! :7:

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yeah, and even better, the tracking says my wiring harnesses are coming in a day earlier than expected, so I will have everything today...Good luck to you too!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
just finished putting in the speaker in the first door. It was a bigger pain than i thought to get the wire through to the door, but I got it in. How do I get the wire to the rear door? under the carpet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i got them all in and everthing wired up last night, but I noticed that in the rear doors, they dont quite fit...the speaker is pressing against the grill where the hole is on the door. I kinda left it like that to listen to them, but they sound a little static/rattling, so now i am trying to rig up a way to make some room
 

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i got them all in and everthing wired up last night, but I noticed that in the rear doors, they dont quite fit...the speaker is pressing against the grill where the hole is on the door. I kinda left it like that to listen to them, but they sound a little static/rattling, so now i am trying to rig up a way to make some room
Hmmmmm. You could try to put the speakers in the door and use the supplied grills over them. As long as they don't protrude too much the panel should flex over them enough to fit back on. If not, you can make some spacers from MDF. Measure how far out of the door the speakers to prevent any contact with the woofer. Make the spacers that high. Place three or four of them around the speaker mounted in the door. Other than that you may have to use different speakers.

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, I decided to Drill new holes into the door, and used no bracket for the speakers. So, I now have more than enough clearance. Now my setup should be all good. I also picked up a used Sound Ordnance™ B-8P 80-watt powered bandpass subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

from craigslist, and I am still working on tweaking the sound settings on my headunit and the sub itself. Right now it is a little too overpowering and boomy
 

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sourbeer55 - I had a '98 LGT hatchback before my current Subie, and I happened to put in that same exact setup (same deck and speakers) in my car, other than the front speakers which I kept stock. (It had factory component speakers which sounded pretty good.) I also had a separate sub and amp. But I loved how that car sounded! My bone stock OBXT doesn't even come close...Anyways, I'm jealous of your upgrade and I'll be doing that again soon.

To un-boom your "boomy" bass, as you put it - if you have an adjustable gain (on the amp, not head unit), then do as follows
1. turn the gain all the way down (do not power off the sub, just turn the gain to zero)
2. turn your music to the loudest comfortable setting, or the loudest you'll ever listen to it.
3. adjust the gain upward to the right amount so there isn't any distortion, and not too much boom boom. The best way to do this is to get a buddy to help out while you listen.
4. Ghost ride your whip. (This step is crucial.)

You're now set! Let us know how it sounds!
 
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