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That corner mass sure seems low, even if you subtract the wheel, tire, hub, rotors, etc.
 

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I'm wondering about the motion ratio - I'm reading that Macpherson struts motion ratio is close to unity 1:1 - I chose 0.9 just from thinking that since the spring is inboard it's less than unity.
The front is definitely McPherson style 1:1 or maybe 90% considering the top hat location. The rear is more like a double-wish bone style (multi-link)
 

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Good point on un/sprung weight. I'm doing a big roadtrip soon and one fat family member asked me to give her a ride. So I'll feel better about my 350lbs springs being put to use. Yes, the ride is stiff, I have no idea why Flatout sent me 350lbs springs when I asked them to configure the coilovers for maximum comfort, I should've checked and know exactly what I'm ordering.
I'm tempted to order new Eibach springs, 225lb(4k) front and 250(4.5k) rear.
The calculation works with the weights you provided and motion ratios: 0.95 Front, 0.79 Rear.
The only factor we haven't changed in the calculation is frequency, stayed 1.5 for both.
To save you cost, here is the magnitude spring website: Magnitude Performance
They're about $94/pair
I'd recommend playing around with the springs rates, find your happy rate then get the eibach. Eibach runs double or more per pair unless $ is not a problem ;)
There's a review on flatout Outback GR Lite with 225 and 250 rate springs with very positive remarks. That person might be a member on here.
I ran 6k springs originally from BC and it was harsh going through railroad tracks, pot holes or road imperfections.
 

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Yeah, the question is, I haven't tried the sophisticated method Jim is describing and attached the links to the most natural position when the car was lifted. Is that how do mechanics install links? I assumed so. Otherwise they'd have to jack up the control arm each time.

View attachment 528576
I think this video explains it well and it's from Whiteline
 

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To save you cost, here is the magnitude spring website: Magnitude Performance
They're about $94/pair
I'd recommend playing around with the springs rates, find your happy rate then get the eibach. Eibach runs double or more per pair unless $ is not a problem ;)
There's a review on flatout Outback GR Lite with 225 and 250 rate springs with very positive remarks. That person might be a member on here.
I ran 6k springs originally from BC and it was harsh going through railroad tracks, pot holes or road imperfections.
Amazing, they also have $5 per spring clearance :)
 

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I just wanted to chime in as someone else that has purchased and just received a set of GR Lites for a Gen3.
Overall quality is good, but I didn't receive what I thought I was ordering.
I ordered there overload springs, I thought those would be 375lb front and rear.
Sins I often tow a motorcycle on the rear (finished a 2300mile road trip this fall doing just that) and I have the slightly heaver h6 (uncommon for that gen).
What I received is 300lb front and 350lb rear.
I also didn't receive any helper springs, and as you can see here:
Light Automotive tire Bicycle part Gas Household hardware

That means I can't set any preload on the rear shocks without setting them to max height.

Communication before sale was terrible but as far as I can tell they are the only company that sells these to fit my Outback.

But all of that is fixable, here's hoping I can get better support now that I've given them a bunch of money.
UPS didn't drop them off until it was almost dark, but tomorrow I'll start installing them.
 

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I went to the shop this morning and adjusted the front preload to 6,35mm.
Lowered front passenger side by -5mm, now all four corners sit at even heights.
I raised the stock height from 468mm (center of the wheel hub to the fender) to 480mm (1/2").
I increased the shock firmness from 3 clicks to 4 (20%).
The ride feels better now. No body roll, firm but responsive, confidence inspiring.
 

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I just wanted to chime in as someone else that has purchased and just received a set of GR Lites for a Gen3.
Overall quality is good, but I didn't receive what I thought I was ordering.
I ordered there overload springs, I thought those would be 375lb front and rear.
Sins I often tow a motorcycle on the rear (finished a 2300mile road trip this fall doing just that) and I have the slightly heaver h6 (uncommon for that gen).
What I received is 300lb front and 350lb rear.
I also didn't receive any helper springs, and as you can see here:
View attachment 528671
That means I can't set any preload on the rear shocks without setting them to max height.

Communication before sale was terrible but as far as I can tell they are the only company that sells these to fit my Outback.

But all of that is fixable, here's hoping I can get better support now that I've given them a bunch of money.
UPS didn't drop them off until it was almost dark, but tomorrow I'll start installing them.
Welcome to the club!

Please let us know how did the install go!

It's funny, looks like the Flatout guy ships random springs (at least they come in pairs) because I have checked today and I have:
Front 350lbs
Rear 250lbs

I didn't know I had 250lbs rear until now. I don't understand why he sent me 350lbs fronts because I placed the order when I had an H4, I didn't know I would upgrade to H6 so soon back then. Maybe he just randomly picks what he has at hand :) and 6-8 weeks lead time doesn't help either. The order confirmation doesn't contain any details so I can imagine we can only rely on his internal system based on sticky notes which is good until he opens a window on a windy day :)
 

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'05 Outback H6
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I talked with him over e-mail and he'll be sending me a set of helper springs so I can get a 1" lift in the rear.
I might go more with spacers, larger tires, and a 2" lift later, but this along with stiffer adjustable shocks and customizable springs is what I wanted.


It's funny, looks like the Flatout guy ships random springs (at least they come in pairs) because I have checked today and I have:
Front 350lbs
Rear 250lbs
It's worth saying that the Gen 5 is 400lb heaver then a Gen3 and has a different type of rear suspension.
So spring rates aren't really comparable.

Edit: It looks the Gen5 has a 0.8 ratio for the rear shocks, Gen3 might be closer to .9, so you should end up with a much softer rear then me.

For me the springs should be a good starting point.
I'm not sure if I'll do the fronts now or wait until the helper springs come in
It'd look pretty odd with the front lifted and the rears not.
 

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Welcome to the club!

Please let us know how did the install go!

It's funny, looks like the Flatout guy ships random springs (at least they come in pairs) because I have checked today and I have:
Front 350lbs
Rear 250lbs

I didn't know I had 250lbs rear until now. I don't understand why he sent me 350lbs fronts because I placed the order when I had an H4, I didn't know I would upgrade to H6 so soon back then. Maybe he just randomly picks what he has at hand :) and 6-8 weeks lead time doesn't help either. The order confirmation doesn't contain any details so I can imagine we can only rely on his internal system based on sticky notes which is good until he opens a window on a windy day :)
Technically, you can swap the 250 to front and 350 to rear. Thatll swap the freq front to 1.5 and rear 1.7 or 1.8 which is also perfect for the "flat ride" effect for frequency match up.
Using the calculator sheet from drivetribe, the rear/front ratio shd be about 1.5 to give a "flat ride". The RSR lowering springs for gen5 OB are also dedigned that way (3k fromt and 4.5k rear). You might need at least 12" springs for the front if you go lower than 300lbs though or else youll get coil bind
 

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Technically, you can swap the 250 to front and 350 to rear. Thatll swap the freq front to 1.5 and rear 1.7 or 1.8 which is also perfect for the "flat ride" effect for frequency match up.
Using the calculator sheet from drivetribe, the rear/front ratio shd be about 1.5 to give a "flat ride". The RSR lowering springs for gen5 OB are also dedigned that way (3k fromt and 4.5k rear). You might need at least 12" springs for the front if you go lower than 300lbs though or else youll get coil bind
Interesting point to think about. Can you please post a link to the drivetribe calculator?
The rears are 14" and would work then.

Automotive tire Tread Gear Automotive exterior Rim


How would the rear perform with 10" springs from the front? The rears are now under a lot of preload just to achieve a small lift, with shorter and stronger springs, wouldn't it make the ride harsher? The double wishbone optimal preload should be 1/8" (3mm).
 

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Interesting point to think about. Can you please post a link to the drivetribe calculator?
The rears are 14" and would work then.

View attachment 528770

How would the rear perform with 10" springs from the front? The rears are now under a lot of preload just to achieve a small lift, with shorter and stronger springs, wouldn't it make the ride harsher? The double wishbone optimal preload should be 1/8" (3mm).
Here is the link for the article. The xcel sheet in in a dropbox link in the same article.

Yes, 350lbs spring rear will make ride harsh. I have 335(5k) rear and at times it can get bouncy or harsh over rough bumps. Hence im going with 225 F and 250 R. My set is on its way.

This is the simplest way I can think of measuring how much preload needed.
I reduced all corners preload to 0.
Then I worked on each axle. Set the whole car down, measure how much sag each corner has compared to full extension. This is the same as measuring corner weight.
- For the front its simple math. (Full extension - sag) *spring rate(k/mm or lbs/inch). Youll get each front corner weight. Your shocks has 8" travel total minus 1.5 for bump stop. So you get 7.5" usable shock travel. Divide by half and itll be 3.5". Most shops will reccommend 40% for droop(filling in dips) and 60% for bumps(speed bumps, crawls). So youll need to preload each corner to achieve that goal. Then dial the rebound setting to match the rate. Make sure the spring rate in withib the shock valving range. Or else youll have to revalve.

- the rear requires 1 more math step bc of the shock location. (Full extension-sag)*0.8*springrate. This is because the travel at the shock is less compared to wheel.


Id say for 1.5hz frequency, the rear will need at most 250 or 275lbs springs. Any higher and it gets harsh unless youre constatly loading the car with trailers, cargo then you can account for that weight into the freq calculator.

Anyone with more insight, plz chime in. This has been my research for the past years on many forums and techinical board to learn all this info. But then again I can be wrong.
 

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2020 Onyx
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The only question I have is about the flatout are damped, especially rebound. Is it adjustable? I like overdamped suspension so if I were able to customize my suspension I'm not sure I'd go for 1.5hz unless I knew for sure that my shocks would give sufficient damping - I might shoot for 1.25 with firmer than stock shocks.
 
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The only question I have is about the flatout are damped, especially rebound. Is it adjustable? I like overdamped suspension so if I were able to customize my suspension I'm not sure I'd go for 1.5hz unless I knew for sure that my shocks would give sufficient damping - I might shoot for 1.25 with firmer than stock shocks.
You can request a shock dyno from flatout. They're supposed to have a dyno graph sent out with each shock but I did not receive mine. They do have 20 points rebound adjustment all 4 corners. I'm not sure what the compression damping is tuned for as middle ground but usually they should cover +/- 2kg/mm spring rate range (on their FAQ) which is pretty standard for aftermarket coils.

Please find their link here:

The owner responds quite fast via FB messenger.
 

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The only question I have is about the flatout are damped, especially rebound. Is it adjustable? I like overdamped suspension so if I were able to customize my suspension I'm not sure I'd go for 1.5hz unless I knew for sure that my shocks would give sufficient damping - I might shoot for 1.25 with firmer than stock shocks.
In my experience, with our car weight, I'd shoot for no more than 300lbs springs for comfort unless you're constantly loaded with heavy cargo and people or like to ride STI-style😄.
 

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2016 Subaru Outback Limited 3.6R
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Been reading everyone's experiences with their GR Lites. I have a set on my 16 Outback. It seems no matter what I do on the front end I can't get rid of a clunking sound over potholes/large bumps. I've tried 1" of preload, 1/4" of preload and 0 preload (at currently). Everything is tight and torqued properly. Endlinks torqued with car on ground. My last resort is to try switching out camber plates for OEM tophats thinking it's maybe the spherical bearing causing the noise. This morning in -24C the noise seemed 10x worse and bumps were bone jarring.

Any suggestions??
 

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2020 Onyx
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