Subaru Outback Forums banner
101 - 118 of 118 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
286 Posts
Been reading everyone's experiences with their GR Lites. I have a set on my 16 Outback. It seems no matter what I do on the front end I can't get rid of a clunking sound over potholes/large bumps. I've tried 1" of preload, 1/4" of preload and 0 preload (at currently). Everything is tight and torqued properly. Endlinks torqued with car on ground. My last resort is to try switching out camber plates for OEM tophats thinking it's maybe the spherical bearing causing the noise. This morning in -24C the noise seemed 10x worse and bumps were bone jarring.

Any suggestions??
Id say try driving with the endlinks disconnected first, one axle at a time and slower driving. With upgraded struts/shocks, the endlinks become the weaker members to absorb the more powerful rebound and compression.

The shocks are firmer during colder months because the oil stay more viscous longer and it could be the compression cycle causing the sound. The shocks are linear valved so theyre not as forgiving as stock.
 

·
Registered
2016 Subaru Outback Limited 3.6R
Joined
·
4 Posts
Id say try driving with the endlinks disconnected first, one axle at a time and slower driving. With upgraded struts/shocks, the endlinks become the weaker members to absorb the more powerful rebound and compression.

The shocks are firmer during colder months because the oil stay more viscous longer and it could be the compression cycle causing the sound. The shocks are linear valved so theyre not as forgiving as stock.
Good points. I did install MOOG endlinks when I installed the coilovers 8 months ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
286 Posts
Good points. I did install MOOG endlinks when I installed the coilovers 8 months ago.
I had both moog and stock they were equally noisy from my experience. Bc coil over does sell rubber bushing top hats conversion for their br series which I currently ride on. Though I havnt been able to see if that fit the flatout coil. The spring seats should fit since they have the same specs though im not sure about the piston passthrough.
Its been raining and cold so im delaying working on the coils till maybe springs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
286 Posts
I do have two pairs of magnitude springs (225 and 250lbs) in 12" length if anyone is interested. They should have about 7-8" travel. Originally I plan on using them but they dont fit for my applications due to me being lowering applications.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
Been reading everyone's experiences with their GR Lites. I have a set on my 16 Outback. It seems no matter what I do on the front end I can't get rid of a clunking sound over potholes/large bumps. I've tried 1" of preload, 1/4" of preload and 0 preload (at currently). Everything is tight and torqued properly. Endlinks torqued with car on ground. My last resort is to try switching out camber plates for OEM tophats thinking it's maybe the spherical bearing causing the noise. This morning in -24C the noise seemed 10x worse and bumps were bone jarring.

Any suggestions??
I have just returned from a 600mile trip. About 50miles was off-road. I have adjusted the position of the sway bar because I was getting clunking over large potholes. It helped but have not resolved 100%.

Some information regarding my setup:
  • 0.5" Lift (480mm center of the wheel hub to the fender rim)
  • Moog endlinks
  • 1/4" Front springs preload
  • Everything is torqued properly
  • I checked the camber plates and they seemed tight
I'm not sure about the correct position of the endlink clamp height so I adjusted it to the length I measured on the original shock (if I remember correctly, which I'd need to verify by someone else with original shocks). I haven't fitted them with the car on the ground or like in the video @supercow2610 posted.
This is my endlinks position now:
Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Tread


To be honest I'm pleased with the performance and increased height if it wasn't for the road noise and clunking.

Plant Tire Car Vehicle Sky
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
I have been sending messages on a Messenger (and on Instagram) to the Flatout guy to order the OEM hybrid plates but he is not responding (since the beginning of December 2021), he is so unreliable I'm thinking about writing negatives reviews on some forums because he makes the whole ownership experience unpleasant.
I'm thinking the OEM top mounts could be the key otherwise I have no idea and it could be a quality / design issue.
The fact that more people are having the same problem means the problem lies with the Flatout product, not the installation or one's individual car setup.

Also, I was thinking, why would you want camber plates on your (off-road) daily driver? That is just stupid in my opinion - based on what I have learned we should've been fine with coilovers and OEM-like setup. Camber plates add road noise and all sorts of potential problems (such as mine began rusting after 1 week so they definitely need additional maintenance).
 

·
Registered
2016 Subaru Outback Limited 3.6R
Joined
·
4 Posts
I'll be adjusting the preload on my fronts tomorrow. I have 225lb front and 250lb rear. At zero preload on front I only have just over 1" of bump travel so the loud noise I heard was likely the bump stops.

I'll be setting the preload so I have more like 4" of bump travel which should give me a 60/40 bump/droop ratio. I'll also ensure the sway bar ends are at 90 deg like others have mentioned and give an update!
 

·
Registered
2016 Subaru Outback Limited 3.6R
Joined
·
4 Posts
I'm thinking the OEM top mounts could be the key otherwise I have no idea and it could be a quality / design issue.
He does have the OEM top hat adapters on the website for $50USD. I'm considering it but really don't want to spend any more money on an already hefty investment.
 

·
Premium Member
2020 Onyx
Joined
·
15,383 Posts
Apparently Flatout changed ownership in the Summer of 2019 so it's a young company not affiliated with the previous management of it - but I suspect the parts are made in China.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
I was also having trouble getting ahold of anyone at Flatout, getting them on the phone seemed to be the best option. I think they're just understaffed for the amount of business they're doing.
I'm running 2.5" lift over stock, with Rallitek adjustable endlinks to get the swaybar correctly positioned. I have only 1/4" preload in the front, which is less than Flatout's original recommendation of 1".
The preload adjustment and new endlinks greatly improved the harsh clunk on certain potholes/bumps at low speed. Off-road performance is otherwise fine.
My top hat camber adjustment is set to neutral, so I may also look at converting to an OEM top hat to eliminate the remaining harshness. I've tried everything else...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
The only question I have is about the flatout are damped, especially rebound. Is it adjustable? I like overdamped suspension so if I were able to customize my suspension I'm not sure I'd go for 1.5hz unless I knew for sure that my shocks would give sufficient damping - I might shoot for 1.25 with firmer than stock shocks.
Good point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
I was also having trouble getting ahold of anyone at Flatout, getting them on the phone seemed to be the best option. I think they're just understaffed for the amount of business they're doing.
I'm running 2.5" lift over stock, with Rallitek adjustable endlinks to get the swaybar correctly positioned. I have only 1/4" preload in the front, which is less than Flatout's original recommendation of 1".
The preload adjustment and new endlinks greatly improved the harsh clunk on certain potholes/bumps at low speed. Off-road performance is otherwise fine.
My top hat camber adjustment is set to neutral, so I may also look at converting to an OEM top hat to eliminate the remaining harshness. I've tried everything else...
Alright so I got hold of this guy and ordered the OEM hybrid mounts.

By the way he suggested I'll get a pair of 250 lbs/in Front and 300 lbs/in Rear springs.

I called Eibach to investigate further and they said the Front should be around 230 lbs/in and around 190 lbs/in Rear. Which is kinda confusing :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
I do have two pairs of magnitude springs (225 and 250lbs) in 12" length if anyone is interested. They should have about 7-8" travel. Originally I plan on using them but they dont fit for my applications due to me being lowering applications.
I'm interested, I'm ready to buy them now. DM (y)
 

·
Registered
2019 Subaru Outback 3.6R
Joined
·
14 Posts
Alright so I got hold of this guy and ordered the OEM hybrid mounts.

By the way he suggested I'll get a pair of 250 lbs/in Front and 300 lbs/in Rear springs.

I called Eibach to investigate further and they said the Front should be around 230 lbs/in and around 190 lbs/in Rear. Which is kinda confusing :)
How much were the OEM Hybrid mounts? I'm debating between those or using factory top mounts with their OEM top mount adapter. Thank you in advance.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
286 Posts
Alright so I got hold of this guy and ordered the OEM hybrid mounts.

By the way he suggested I'll get a pair of 250 lbs/in Front and 300 lbs/in Rear springs.

I called Eibach to investigate further and they said the Front should be around 230 lbs/in and around 190 lbs/in Rear. Which is kinda confusing :)
Im wondering what Eibach is basing the spring rates on. I can see the rear using 190lbs on my application for comfort. Stock OB and Forester suffer from bounciness when driving unloaded also. The annoying microbounce.
 

·
Premium Member
2020 Onyx
Joined
·
15,383 Posts
I can think of several sources of microbounce that aren't about the springs or dampers per-se:
  • Tires
  • Subframe bushings
  • elastic strut tower tops
  • Chassis/platform flex - can be 20 to 60hz - not sure what ours is like for torsional vs longitudinal etc.
There are so many parts to the car that may have a different mass/spring effect, so even if you tune your coil springs to 1hz that doesn't mean that the other mass-spring effects would be tuned out by doing that. When you tune something to a frequency, that's the frequency that's excited or amplified through resonance.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
286 Posts
I can think of several sources of microbounce that aren't about the springs or dampers per-se:
  • Tires
  • Subframe bushings
  • elastic strut tower tops
  • Chassis/platform flex - can be 20 to 60hz - not sure what ours is like for torsional vs longitudinal etc.
There are so many parts to the car that may have a different mass/spring effect, so even if you tune your coil springs to 1hz that doesn't mean that the other mass-spring effects would be tuned out by doing that. When you tune something to a frequency, that's the frequency that's excited or amplified through resonance.

Good point! Ill read more about that. And I also forgot about the tranny. Its stuttery at times causing the bounce too
 

·
Registered
Outback 2017
Joined
·
56 Posts
Anybody know how much additional travel you get over stock with these? I have been told you cant really gain all that much on the gen 5 outback even if you do a 2" lift and do it all right

Definitely sounds like I would probably want to go with the OEM hybrid style - has anybody installed those yet and does it help?
 
101 - 118 of 118 Posts
Top