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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've done quite a bit of searching, and not found anything like this, so apologies if someone has done this legwork before.

First: Why? It's true, if you're using your fog lights in the fog, you don't want them on when your high beams are on. And no use having them on when your headlights are off. But, the stock fog lights don't really do much even in the fog, so you might replace those with something else more useable, or just like the look of having your fogs on with headlights on (a mod I did immediately with my flip-up headlight cars, Celica and XT6). I have a 22" 120W LED combo Fog/Spot bar in the grill wired to the stock fog light circuit (fog lights removed).

Materials:
Flathead screwdriver (preferably shorter length, medium size)
10mm socket and ratchet/driver. Maybe an extension
Wire cutter/stripper
Crimper and waterproof butt splices (I only use Molex PermaSeal ones, I buy from Waytekwire.com)
-or-
Soldering iron/solder/waterproof heat shrink (adhesive lined)
Some extra wire. I probably used about a couple feet so I had plenty to work with. This is just for the trigger side of the relay, so 16-20g is fine.




These pictures were taken on my '00. I glanced at my '04 diagrams, and the pins are the same, wire colors may vary. If I add aux lighting to our '04, I'll do this mod to it, and check for sure.

The fog light relay is in the underhood fuse and relay box, this one. This is a pretty base model Outback (cold weather package being the only option), yours may have more or less relays in those other positions:

2020-03-02_09-37-58
by Numbchux, on Flickr

The load side of the relay is very simple. Fused power right from the battery, right to the fog lights. Don't need to mess with that. It's the trigger side of the relay. The power leg of that circuit gets power from the DRL module, this is only supplied with power while the low beams are on. The ground leg of that circuit goes through the fog light switch, and is supplied ground anytime the Fog light switch is ON and High beams are OFF (this can be tested even with the car off, the ground signal goes away when the high beam switch is engaged).

Step one is to disconnect the battery (yes, I skipped this with considerable caution as I was constantly testing the function as I went along) and remove the Main fuse box, and gain access to the wiring on the bottom. You'll want to remove the washer bottle and lay it aside, you'll probably have to disconnect one or both of the electrical plugs and the hose to the rear nozzle, and then you can carefully lay the bottle aside so it doesn't leak too much. Then one more bolt on the front of the fuse box. You'll be able to lift it up a bit to see the bottom. You'll want to push a flathead screwdriver in from the bottom on either end of the relay bank, and then you can push the relays down out of the fuse box.

20200301_161957
by Numbchux, on Flickr

You'll want to carefully pry the tabs in so the covers on the bottom of the main box and relay bank can be removed. Grab that power wire from the relay and cut it off as far as you can reach, and splice on a section of wire (probably only need 6-8").

20200301_162643
by Numbchux, on Flickr

Then extend it to the headlight relay plug on the bottom of the main box:

20200301_162042
by Numbchux, on Flickr

The Green one here is ignition-switched power, and the large red and blue are the load wires going to each side headlight.

20200301_163247
by Numbchux, on Flickr

I opted to tap into the ignition-switched wire, so I can use the fog lights without headlights, but they'll auto-off with the ignition. You could tap into one of those others so it only works with headlights on (low and high). Or find a fused always-on wire.

20200301_163810
by Numbchux, on Flickr

Then reassemble and reinstall the fuse box.

At this point, the fog circuit will be live anytime the high beams are OFF:

20200301_164525
by Numbchux, on Flickr

Then, we need to modify the ground source to the switch. Looks like I didn't take a picture of this. It's Pin 5 (one of the center ones) Yellow/Blue on the '00, Yellow/Black on the '04. If you want unrestricted control of the circuit, this wire needs to be grounded. There are 2 solid-black wires on the heated windshield switch connector right next to it which would be perfect for tapping into.

I spliced another length of wire onto it, and ran it down to the DRL module, and spliced it into the high-beam wire. This setup was just for testing, I cut the wire and spliced it in so I could plug the module back in so the lights would work. Now my fog light circuit only works with the high beams (so I can quick shut it all off if another car is coming).

20200301_172804
by Numbchux, on Flickr
 

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2003 Outback LL Bean with 224,000 on the clock and a 03 Outback Limited with 157K
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138 Posts
Thanks for your detailed instructions.
Jim
 

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2002 ll bean h-6 Outback
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I simply upgraded my fogs to yellow led bulbs... State law here says they can only work in conjunction with low beams in hazardous weather...
 

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Outbacks, SVXs, XT6, 4Runner, Celica, Brat, E150s
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I simply upgraded my fogs to yellow led bulbs... State law here says they can only work in conjunction with low beams in hazardous weather...
Yea, the laws vary and are generally poorly worded. And usually not very closely enforced if you're careful how you use them (I drove for a couple years with uncovered roof lights on my old lifted '88 wagon without a problem, until a cop caught me using them on a deserted road in the middle of the night, then I got some grief).

Here in MN there is wording that fog lights can only work with Low beams, but there's separate wording about auxiliary/driving lights.
 
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