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Discussion Starter #1
2004 Outback 3.0 VDC - The front speakers never worked since we've owned the car. Finally opened up the door panels and they were clearly blown speakers on each side. the soft round part was coming apart. Put new speakers in, got no sound from the rear or front while the head unit turns on. Disconnect the front speakers and we get sound from the rear again.

I'm pretty sure I wired it wrong at first. I thought the previous owner had disconnected the speakers as there were two wires not connected hanging in each door panel. I realize in hindsight these wires were for the little light at the corner of each door. I've never wired anything with tweeters before so my dumb ass twists the hanging wires to the new speakers and the existing connection that was to the old speakers. I feel like a real dummy, I typically know better, DC doesn't work like that, I just made assumptions and made a bad call. I was beating up myself pretty bad over it lol.

I tried it again with just connecting the speakers without the wires hanging for the light and I get the same result, no sound from the front or back. I thought from connecting the wrong wires I had potentially sent 12V into the tweeters and the new speakers. I thought I blew them out but I just tested them (the new speakers, not the tweeters) for continuity with a voltmeter and they seem to be fine. I tested them with a AA battery and I'm getting sound.

So now I'm wondering could it be the wiring leading up to the head unit? Could I have blown the tweeters and now that's why it isn't working? Is there a fuse somewhere that could have been blown? How could I go about testing this and getting it to work?

I appreciate any help anyone of you may have to offer. Thank you.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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did you hear a single POP! or anything?
 

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2005 Outback Wagon 3.0 L.L. Bean
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Check the location of the new speakers + and - connectors and any stray wire strands. It sounds like a connector may be grounding out on the steel inside the door. Even if the tweeters are blown, (open), you will get sound from the 6 1/2 because they are wired in parallel. If the tweeter or its wires are shorted you will get no sound and likely damage the output ICs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for your response. Wha is an output IC? Is there a way to test the tweeters to see if they are blown? Btw, I did this on both doors. Niether side works, is each door a separate circuit From the head unit?

How are the tweeters wired in parallel?
 

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2005 Outback Wagon 3.0 L.L. Bean
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Output IC=Integrated Circuit (the amplifier section)
Test tweeter using a meter set for ohms. They will read about 3.5 ohms give or take 1. There will be a small capacitor in series with the positive tweeter lead. That is the crossover to absorb low frequencies. Test with meter leads on the speaker side of the capacitor.
Each door has it's own channel with a pair of speaker wires going into each door. Inside the door the tweeters tap into the 6 1/2 main speaker wires. Positive to positive, negative to negative means wired in parallel.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you again.
Would damage to the output IC be causing no sound? Is there a fuse to check for output IC?

Any idea why sound in the rear door speakers works when the front speakers are not hooked up? I'm guessing if there is a short to ground in the front speakers somewhere it would prevent every speaker from working.

I should be getting a chance to work on this tomorrow, I'll check for shorts in the door panel first and foremost.

The 2 wires soldered to the stock speaker are the correct connections, right? I just clipped and spliced em to the new speakers.
 

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Speakers have a little bit of “black magic” in them so wiring them incorrectly often leads to some weird outcomes.

The head unit is expecting a certain load (in Ohms) and the speakers therefore need to be wired so that the head unit is outputting to the predetermined load. If the speakers are 4 Ohms each and you wire them in series the total load is the amount of speakers is the combination of their impedance (Ohms) so two four Ohm speakers is 8 Ohms.

If you wire the speakers in parallel the impedance DECREASES (using a mathematical formula) so two four Ohm speakers in parallel will be less than 4 Ohms.

The reason I am mentioning all this is because if the total impedence of the speakers is more than the head unit is expecting the output volume will be much lower AND it may appear they are not working when they actually are (but the volume is so low you cannot hear anything).

Seagrass
 

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Outback 2007 3.0Rn 5EAT Wagon.
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Stupid question but have to ask - sure the amp fader is not set to feed only the rears?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Stupid question but have to ask - sure the amp fader is not set to feed only the rears?
Not stupid, I asked myself the same thing but the front speakers were not working prior to installing this newer head unit so I don't believe it could be the fader setting.
When you say amp, you are referring to the head unit correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I’m stumped. when I hooked up the speaker again I heard a small static sound from the tweeter. I tested the tweeter and I get continuity. Also, it seems the rear actually is working independently of the front with a speaker attached.

I just took apart the dash to the wiring harness. I tested both left and right front channels and get ".OL", no continuity reading. I test the rear channels and do receive continuity.

Crossed the two speaker wires in the door and still no continuity. I see nothing in the door or behind the dash that would lead to a short.

Thank you for your help thus far everyone.
Here are some pictures.
485570
485571
485572
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Just found this fuse, about to see if its blown, could this fuse have anything to do with it?
485573


How about the amplifier subwoofer thing underneath the passenger seat, could that be affecting it in some way?
Edit: Nope that wasn't blown, checked the SBF-8 Relay also and it was good.

I'm about to give up, I really wish I could figure this out, it's my girl's car, she deserves decent audio.
 

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That small static sound you're getting when you hook up the tweeter sounds like you are actually supplying it with power. In your photo it looks like the wire harness adapter is wired by matching colors. That won't work. (It is supposed to) That wire harness works on several manufacturers. The color scheme is actually for a Mitsubishi. I used one on my last Subaru. It plugged in like it should but the wire colors did not match up with the function. I had to go by pin location.
This shows the harness pinout for your car
 

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Discussion Starter #14
485595

The thing is I tested it on the Subaru side's connector. Pins 3 & 9 (Front Left) and 2 & 8 (Front Right) there is no continuity when tested with the ohmmeter.
However 5 & 15 (Rear Left) and 4 & 12 (Rear Right) do test for continuity. Could that be due to the fact there are speakers present? Even when I tested with the wires crossed where the speakers should be, the circuits at pins 3 & 9 and 2 & 8 were not coming back as full circuits with the tester.

But you are saying it could be the connectors coming off the head unit I got wrong? I'm not sure about that cause it worked just fine in my 03' forester that I pulled this head unit out of including the wiring harness. Though it did seem a pro installed it. Somehow the subwoofer under the passenger seat is all hooked up, there were some wires spliced in behind the head unit that was unfamiliar to me. In my forester all 4 speakers, two tweeters and subwoofer work great, even better now that I put my pioneer head unit in place of this Alpine.

In this outback though, there is a Mcintosh amplifier under the passenger seat. From what I can tell it's never been connected as long as we have had the car. Could the wiring for the original Mcinstosh system be conflicting with this aftermarket setup in any way? A little research is telling me they are wired up differently.
 

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Take a small battery and attach wires to the +/ -. Use those wires to activate the speakers or "pop them" at the head unit harness. You can hear the pop and verify the polarity as the cone moves. Disregard the tweeter as it's already wired to the 6 1/2. The pop test won't work on the tweeter anyway as the capacitor absorbs 99% of the energy. You will only hear a faint tick.
The pop test won't work on either if there's an amp in the loop
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you for your response. How do I know if there is an amp in the loop?
Are you referring to the Mcintosh Amplifier under the passenger seat still being connected somehow? How can I disconnect the amp in the loop?
 
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