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2017 Subaru Legacy Sport
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Does anyone have a picut
... It only took a couple minutes to replace. ...
Can you describe how to get to it? I feel like from the TSB I know where it should be but I can't locate it lol. Did you have to go in by the wheel well, or just under the car? Thanks!
 

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2018 Dark Blue Pearl Outback 3.6R Premier
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Can you describe how to get to it? I feel like from the TSB I know where it should be but I can't locate it lol. Did you have to go in by the wheel well, or just under the car? Thanks!
Under the car. It is near the back of the front black plastic underbody shield, towards the driver side. I just had to remove one plastic plug of the shield to access with the bit socket.
 

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2017 Subaru Legacy Sport
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Under the car. It is near the back of the front black plastic underbody shield, towards the driver side. I just had to remove one plastic plug of the shield to access with the bit socket.
Just wanted to say thanks again for the description! Since I saw the transmission in the TSB I was looking for the screw location at the wrong angle. The new spring was slightly longer as others have noted. Using the long Torx bit really helped access the screw as Bosh60 described. I only experienced the clunking sound others have described very infrequently so I cannot comment on if it changed anything on that end. However, it did significantly reduce/eliminate (hard to tell for sure if it is 100% eliminated as I don't have a good memory of the initial condition) the knocking sound I heard from turning the steering wheel back and forth when stopped. It also, unexpectedly, got rid of the continuous rattling/clicking sound in my steering wheel that happened when the turn signal was activated and the wheel was being turned in the opposite direction, which was a pleasant surprise.

This little spring sure is responsible for a lot! This a good fix to try if you are having issues for only ~$25 all-in.
 

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2019 Subaru Outback Touring 3.6R, Crystal White Pearl
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I replaced mine on Saturday but didn't get a chance to drive it until today. So nice and quiet now.

Glad I saw the note about it being a 5 point torx plus, thanks for the tips in this thread!
 

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I've read through this thread and feel that it's time I join in. I own a 2017 Outback which developed the steering rattle after 10k miles. It was misdiagnosed as tie rod end and the tech called that "normal"...REALLY, noisy tie rod ends at 10k!! Anyway, fast forward several months and it was eventually correctly diagnosed as the EPS rattle discussed in this thread. The rack was replaced and the noise was gone...however, 12k miles later the rattle returned. The rack was replaced again (different dealership) and the noise was gone. Now 20k miles later, the rattle is back. The dealer "could not reproduce" so they asked me to make a recording which I did (horrendous rattling on a dirt/gravel road) . They asked me to bring the car in, I showed them that turning the wheel rapidly back and forth would cause a "hint" of the noise but that's all they could reproduce so SOA refused to authorize the repair. That is where it stands right now.

I am considering replacing the spring myself and just doing it every time the rattle returns. It doesn't appear to be a difficult job. Any thoughts?
 

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I am considering replacing the spring myself and just doing it every time the rattle returns. It doesn't appear to be a difficult job. Any thoughts?
I think it is worth a shot replacing it. $20 for the spring kit on ebay plus another $5.50 for the special but if you don't have it. Once the car is jacked up, the job is pretty simple. I found it easiest to jack up at the front point of the car, put stands on the left and right pinch welds for support and slide under the front. You might need to have basic abdominal strength as I sort of had to do a slight sit up to get my head high enough to look over the under body cover to see with EPS assembly. To find it locate the assembly, your head will be directly to the left of the CVT, and you will be looking above the cover towards to front of the car.

Once you locate it, it is as simple and unscrewing the screw, taking out the spring, put in the new one, and put the new screw back in after putting some ATF on the o-ring of it. I found it helpful to use tweezers to remove and replace the spring so that I minimized the possibility of dirt getting into the assembly from my fingers.

If you removed the entire undercover, it will be a little easier to get to, but I did not and didn't have much of an issue reaching, especially if you get the long bit from amazon that was posted earlier in the thread. Spring Kit that I used, and the proper bit that was recommended by another person earlier in the thread:

 

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I think it is worth a shot replacing it. $20 for the spring kit on ebay plus another $5.50 for the special but if you don't have it. Once the car is jacked up, the job is pretty simple. I found it easiest to jack up at the front point of the car, put stands on the left and right pinch welds for support and slide under the front. You might need to have basic abdominal strength as I sort of had to do a slight sit up to get my head high enough to look over the under body cover to see with EPS assembly. To find it locate the assembly, your head will be directly to the left of the CVT, and you will be looking above the cover towards to front of the car.

Once you locate it, it is as simple and unscrewing the screw, taking out the spring, put in the new one, and put the new screw back in after putting some ATF on the o-ring of it. I found it helpful to use tweezers to remove and replace the spring so that I minimized the possibility of dirt getting into the assembly from my fingers.

If you removed the entire undercover, it will be a little easier to get to, but I did not and didn't have much of an issue reaching, especially if you get the long bit from amazon that was posted earlier in the thread. Spring Kit that I used, and the proper bit that was recommended by another person earlier in the thread:

Wow, that's great info, thanks so much. This seems like it will be a regular wear item so I'd rather just do it myself instead of going through the hassle with the dealer. Thanks again crudzinskas!!
 

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This thread is great. So glad I found others with a similar issue. At 38k miles now and at 38 months of ownership, I’m assuming I can’t get warranty coverage for this problem since my 2017 is too old to be covered?
 

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2019 Subaru Outback Touring 3.6R, Crystal White Pearl
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I am so very gla I did my spring replacement. Regardless of whether a 19 was covered or not.
 

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The dealer changed the spring in the rack, which made a slight improvement. Then they decided to swap out the entire rack. That made the car so bad that I now feel and hear the clunking everywhere I go... At that point, both the dealer and Subaru of A. told me that's all that can be done.... I am now out of warranty, and left on my own to resolve an issue that sounds like a poor design or poor quality control of parts... likely my last Subaru.
 

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I have a 2017 3.6R and have the same problem. It started around 20k miles. One seasoned Subaru mechanic at the suburban Chicago dealership where I bought it, was able to fix it for a week or two before it came back. He said it was some kind of a spring assy on the steering column.
 

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It looks like it is not necessary unless you adjust the EPS Gear Box. It looks like that is the first course of action recommend now in the updated TBS, then spring replacement, then assembly replacement. Although the spring isn't the first step, it looks easier to perform so it wouldn't necessarily be a bad place to start if attempting on your own.

View attachment 472919
THANK YOU FOR SHARING!!!!!
 

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Looks like 04-17-17R has been updated on 08/20/19 to include models up to 2019.
Thank you for posting this. Here is my experience with my 2018 Outback 3.6R Limited. Noticed rattling sound about 8 months after purchase, and could not figure it out. Took it to the dealer and said they could not recreate the problem. Drove it for another few months and was sure it was coming from somewhere near the driver side wheel. Took it in a second time said they could not recreate the problem. I asked to drive with a tech, and within a few seconds he said it was the steering rack. Mine could not accept the spring kit because it was manufactured before a certain date, so they just replaced the steering rack entirely. Completely solved the problem for about 7 months. Now the noise is coming back. It is not as bad as it was but I fear it will get worse and is frustrating to have on a brand new car. I'm going to make another appointment and see what they say. Perhaps there is a new stronger spring? Or I'll just have to put a new spring in every year? Not the end of the world, but annoying.
 

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2018 Dark Blue Pearl Outback 3.6R Premier
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If you are having trouble with your shop reproducing the noise/problem, while stopped, try turning (wiggling) the steering wheel back and forth rapidly. On mine, that would reproduce the clunking sound.
 

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Just wanted to ask, appendix A talks of a rather involved adjustment - are you planning on doing that after the spring install?
An update to my fix. While the spring replacement made a huge difference, I did eventually notice some noise remaining especially as the weather became colder. I took it to my dealer and they did the backlash adjustment (appendix A), the noise is completely gone now. That also made the steering much tighter - no play.
 

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My '18 3.6R is currently at the dealer for a rack replacement, after also attempting the spring fix. That, and a head gasket, and passenger rear wheel bearing. Thankfully still under warranty at 25k miles
 

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My '18 3.6R is currently at the dealer for a rack replacement, after also attempting the spring fix. That, and a head gasket, and passenger rear wheel bearing. Thankfully still under warranty at 25k miles
You already need a head gasket replaced, what happened there? I didn't realize that was still an issue on the new models. I'll update on my '18 3.6R, as we just got a bunch of snow here in Colorado I can hear the rattle clearly while driving on the uneven snow packed roads. As I posted before the first steering rack completely solved the issue, but only for about 6 months. Hopefully the backlash adjustment is more of a permanent fix.
 
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