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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had some noise from the right rear brake on my 2013 2.5 base model.
I've done a few brake jobs, but not a ton.
I get pads and rotors from Napa
Cue up the YouTube video
Jack it up. Wheel off. Pry open piston.
All good
Bolts are rusty and give me some grief but normal.
Turns out the entire pad material had fallen off the backing on one pad so there's my issue.
I want to replace the rotor but I can't get the parking brake to disengage while it's up on the jack! Oh well I'll just return it.
Clean up the pad carrier. Lube the sliders. Looking good.
Put it back on the car.
Cannot get those pads in! They definitely dont slip right in. I wrestle for a while. Finally in.
Now the caliper will NOT go on. Not even close. I actually sanded the pads down. Omitted those anti rattle squeal things on the back and they BARELY fit the caliper.
Buttoned it up and took it for a test drive and it works fine.

I'll do the other side later when I have more patience.

Why didn't the caliper fit? I am sure the piston was in all the way.
 

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2012 OB , 2017 Impreza
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3,855 Posts
Either the pads or the new rotor may not be correct. (too thick)

Can you compare the thickness of the OLD rotor (you just removed) to the NEW one (you have not installed)?

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As for the pads not fitting into the holder.... Oftentimes, rust builds up UNDERNEATH where those stainless sliders pop on. This rust will cause binding of the pads. (This is called "rust jacking")

I usually clamp the caliper-holder in bench-vice and use sharp file to clean up those machined areas.

BTW: the brake-grease should be smeared on the caliper-holders UNDERNEATH where those SS sliders pop on.(to prevent rust) DO NOT put any type of lube on the side where the pads slide.

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I agree that dealing with the drum-brakes (parking brakes) can be a PITA. Do not forget there is an access-hole visible after removing the wheel so you can reach in with tool to "unwind" the brake-adjuster to get additional sack from the shoes. This allows the hat to slide off the shoes.
 

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2010 2.5 CVT Limited
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When the piston is all the way retracted (pushed back in), it is usually about flush with the caliper body.
If you don't open the bleeder valve when retracting the piston, you are fighting hydraulic action and it can take some effort to move the piston, even with a c-clamp or other brake tool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I noticed my mpg go from about 27 to 22 so I took it apart and started over.
I could not get either piston to retract fully, but close. I think I had it as far as it goes.
The one slide pin had frozen, the one with the rubber boot on it. The rubber was all messed up. I bought another slider kit and it doesn't include the boot.
The guy at AutoZone said to just take the boot off. It's anti rattle.
Another thing that's not in the YouTube videos that helps is to put channel locks on the new pads and squeeze together to seat them to make it easier to the caliper on.
I also adjusted the parking brake.
I had a hard time sliding the new pads in. The little tin clips have a tiny little tab that makes it so you have to put top or bottom in first.
I did the other side and it went more smoothly, but still not without issues.
Going to try the fronts next. They look easier because you can turn the wheel and no parking brake to deal with.
 

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'17 Outback 2.5i Premium
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In addition to pressing om the piston, you need to rotate it to get it all the way in. The jacking screw for the parking brake doesn't fully retract unless you use software (SSM4 or equivalent) to put the brake in Maintenance Mode, buy the FSM does list an alternate procedure to wind it in manually. It can be done with needle-nose pliers, but it's much easier with a service tool that has 2 pins to engage the piston and can be driven by a ratchet (available at Harbor Freight, Amazon, and others).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ya brake jobs have added a few steps.
I went with this Amazon.com: 8MILELAKE Disc Brake Caliper Compressor Wind Back Tool 24pc Professional Disc Brake Caliper Tool Set : Automotive since we have a small fleet of personal vehicles.
Hopefully you haven't overheated/warped the rotors.
I just ordered that tool. I have to do the fronts anyway. I really hope I haven't ruined the rotors!
I took it all apart and redid the job and my mpg still is at 20 all highway. Ugh. I'm going to back the parking brake off more
 
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