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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
I'm trying to imagine why the SX might not work and I can't come up with any reason. It does make the oil come out 90 degrees from where it normally would but that's not a problem as long as you take that into account and aim the nozzle accordingly as you tighten it.

The SX has a short nipple and clear plastic tubing will fall off so you'll need to get one of those plastic barbed socket things unless you want it to just free squirt. I would prefer the F108N with the long nipple to put plastic tubing on but I've never actually used one of those so maybe I'm just imagining how much better it would be with less parts.

If you go with the SX I'd get the 90 degree plastic elbow instead of the straight one. The plastic elbow snaps on securely so maybe it's better than sliding a tube over the long brass nipple of the F108N?

Anyways whatever you decide, please share how it went and add a picture if you can!
 

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Thanks SilverOnyx. Good point on the less parts. The big “A” store had the F108N long nipple with the black clip ( new) for just over $26 shipped. Will be a week to 10 days for shipping according to the order. ( usually faster than listed) Will get a picture up when it’s all finished. (y)
 

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Finally had time today for oil change fumoto install. Sorry for the amateur photo's, but you get the idea. The yellow drain plug covers are 3/8"
and were .49 cents for both at my local Menard's store( i.e. Home Depot). I've been doing my own oil changes/ maintenance for 35+ years but the
Outback is the first car where the plastic guarding is less user friendly than anything we currently have. Worth the $26!!! Thanks to all who posted
about the correct part #'s. Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Looks good and it seems like the straight nipple works better!
 

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Finally had time today for oil change fumoto install. Sorry for the amateur photo's, but you get the idea. The yellow drain plug covers are 3/8"
and were .49 cents for both at my local Menard's store( i.e. Home Depot). I've been doing my own oil changes/ maintenance for 35+ years but the
Outback is the first car where the plastic guarding is less user friendly than anything we currently have. Worth the $26!!! Thanks to all who posted
about the correct part #'s. Ron
:Edit:
Sounds as though the 108n could fit with heat shield modifictiaton or be slightly lucky and have clearance already.

Was this installed on an XT? I purchased the 108SX but don’t love the two piece design and having to align the hole in the chamber to the valve so it flows properly.

If the thread depth into oil pain and the overall length are not more than the 108sx, seems like this is a good alternative.
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
:Edit:
Sounds as though the 108n could fit with heat shield modifictiaton or be slightly lucky and have clearance already.

Was this installed on an XT? I purchased the 108SX but don’t love the two piece design and having to align the hole in the chamber to the valve so it flows properly.

If the thread depth into oil pain and the overall length are not more than the 108sx, seems like this is a good alternative.
Yes his was the 2.5 and at least one other XT owner used the single piece 108n by just lightly hammering back the heat shield - he posted photos in this thread.

I'm not sure what you mean about aligning the hole in the chamber for flow - I only adjusted it for where I want the nozzle to point and I get a fast flow.

As far as I can recall the thread depth is the same.
 
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Yes his was the 2.5 and at least one other XT owner used the single piece 108n by just lightly hammering back the heat shield - he posted photos in this thread.

I'm not sure what you mean about aligning the hole in the chamber for flow - I only adjusted it for where I want the nozzle to point and I get a fast flow.

As far as I can recall the thread depth is the same.
thanks! Found their post shortly after my post....
The trouble of speed reading and not absorbing the details. I might order the 108N, test fit and see if I’m ok with making it work.

Alignment I was talking about was this. The insert piece that threads into the oil pan has two holes. The valve and those holes should be aligned, but will take some trial and error.

499607


499608


I saw you mentioned this on your install write up. Unless I’m mixing this up with the valve/nipple placement and angle so as to make it drain in a useable manner
 
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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
I saw you mentioned this on your install write up. Unless I’m mixing this up with the valve/nipple placement and angle so as to make it drain in a useable manner
Interesting! I didn't clock the internal hole to line up, and if you examine the apparatus you'll notice that the inner cylinder is much smaller than the housing, so the oil will flow even without the holes being lined up - I'm pretty sure mine isn't lined up and it flows just fine.
 
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Well, I think this wasn’t supposed to happen...

500930

Went to hand tighten with regular socket set, and was fine. Might have been my torque wrench is a piece of crap, and ended up way over tightening.

I might go the 108N route so I won’t go 2-2 on this happening. Deal with the heat shield and make it fit/work.
 
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Discussion Starter · #110 · (Edited)
Just in case:

The F108SX torque spec is 18 foot pounds. It's brass instead of steel and uses rubber o-rings instead of crush washers like the steel oil drain plug. The steel plug's torque spec is 31 foot pounds so Fumoto warns not to over-tighten their valves. 18 foot pounds is the correct torque for the F108SX.

Edit: Fumoto may have revised their instructions -

500931

 

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With the stock plastic engine underguard and the Subaru aluminum underguard mounted as well is there still enough clearance with the F108N to slip a piece of hose over the long nipple and also reach the lever to open the valve?
Or is the F108SX the only way to go with both underguards mounted and still reach the lever?
Before anyone jumps my butt, yes I read all previous posts to see if the answer was already there.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
With the stock plastic engine underguard and the Subaru aluminum underguard mounted as well is there still enough clearance with the F108N to slip a piece of hose over the long nipple and also reach the lever to open the valve?
Or is the F108SX the only way to go with both underguards mounted and still reach the lever?
Before anyone jumps my butt, yes I read all previous posts to see if the answer was already there.
Thanks
Based on this image, the aluminum underguard doesn't cover anything that the plastic guard doesn't (it doesn't extend further back) so it should be fine with any Fumoto that you can fit but I still recommend the SX for the turbo because you can easily clock or index it during installation. Would be nice if someone with the underguard can confirm - couldn't find a specific post about someone with the underguard and the fumoto but it seems unlikely to interfere.

 
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Finally had time today for oil change fumoto install. Sorry for the amateur photo's, but you get the idea. The yellow drain plug covers are 3/8"
and were .49 cents for both at my local Menard's store( i.e. Home Depot). I've been doing my own oil changes/ maintenance for 35+ years but the
Outback is the first car where the plastic guarding is less user friendly than anything we currently have. Worth the $26!!! Thanks to all who posted
about the correct part #'s. Ron
Did my first oil change today on my 2020 OB Limited 2.5. Kept the 108N Fumoto from my 2018 OB Ltd and it fit the 2020 OB 2.5 like a charm. No issues.
 

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Official Fumoto Application Guide

For the 2020 Outback with 2.5 NA engine:


For the 2020 Outback XT with 2.4 turbo:

Links were removed by the provider.
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·

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Time for another oil change and this time went with the f108n valve.

@Slaphappy did the heat shield modification, posted in the thread here


At first I tapped the heat shield way too much andfor some reason decided to get it back to stock form…
It really only needs a minor “tapping” right at the point where the valve body would hit heat shield.

hands down, prefer the single body assembly vs. 2 piece of the f108sx.
 
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Got my Fumoto F108SX recently, but it won't be going on for awhile. I'll hopefully have the dealer install at first oil change in a couple months. But I've been playing with it a bit to understand how it works, and I'm not sure if I might have gotten a bad one if I'm just missing something. It came with the little silver release tab in the closed/indent position. When I try to open it, I can "press" the tab back and forth which I can see compresses the little spring in there, but can't get the tab to "swing" out of the indent position, to what I assume would be the open position. I don't want to force or bend it. Is there some trick to getting the tab to swing open, because it sure doesn't seem like it is working as designed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
After using Fumoto valves for decades I can never remember if I'm supposed to pull or push the lever - I just do it without thinking, so if pushing doesn't work, try pulling it in the other direction before trying to turn it. It could be that pushing and pulling both work. The valve is a bit stiff because you wouldn't want a loose valve in your oiling system.
 
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You have to push the silver lever up then slide it over. It takes a little bit of force to move it over.
Eureka! I thought I'd tried all possible combinations, and was trying to imagine what you meant by "up". So I held it in my hand in the same orientation as it would be on the bottom of my car, and tried "up" and swinging the tab, and sure enough, that worked. First couple times, it seemed like it took three distinct forces - up slightly, then forward, then swing the tab. After doing it a few times, now it seems like just apply a little pressure to the tab either forward or backward, and then it will let you swing the tab down and open the valve. Don't know why I was having such a problem with it.

Now, here's hoping the dealer tech will be able to install this without mucking it up when the time comes.
 
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