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Just in case:

The F108SX torque spec is 18 foot pounds. It's brass instead of steel and uses rubber o-rings instead of crush washers like the steel oil drain plug. The steel plug's torque spec is 31 foot pounds so Fumoto warns not to over-tighten their valves. 18 foot pounds is the correct torque for the F108SX.

Edit: Fumoto may have revised their instructions -


When I switch to a DIY oil change and install a Fumoto valve I hope have my questions answered.
  1. Why does Fumoto not use steel for their valves so the torque can be the same as the OEM steel plug? Less torque seems to say less security of the hold. O-rings are usually more susceptible to destructive aging compared to a crush washer. So again, why not provide a steel valve that can be torqued enough to be able to use a crush washer?
  2. I don't see a place on the valve to grip with my torque wrench socket, so what are my options to get to the 18 ft lbs torque? Fumoto says not to use the obvious hex on the nipple.
  3. Has anyone left a Tygon drain hose attached & tucked away to the Fumoto valve between drains? Maybe secured with a clamp/tie-wrap to the nipple. Fumoto advises not to leave a drain hose attached because it could melt from the heat. Tygon will withstand up to 200°C so leaving it attached and tucked away would provide every tool I need for an oil drain to be in one place.
 

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When I switch to a DIY oil change and install a Fumoto valve I hope have my questions answered.
  1. Why does Fumoto not use steel for their valves so the torque can be the same as the OEM steel plug? Less torque seems to say less security of the hold. O-rings are usually more susceptible to destructive aging compared to a crush washer. So again, why not provide a steel valve that can be torqued enough to be able to use a crush washer?
  2. I don't see a place on the valve to grip with my torque wrench socket, so what are my options to get to the 18 ft lbs torque? Fumoto says not to use the obvious hex on the nipple.
  3. Has anyone left a Tygon drain hose attached & tucked away to the Fumoto valve between drains? Maybe secured with a clamp/tie-wrap to the nipple. Fumoto advises not to leave a drain hose attached because it could melt from the heat. Tygon will withstand up to 200°C so leaving it attached and tucked away would provide every tool I need for an oil drain to be in one place.
Have you asked Fumoto these questions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
You can use a crowsfoot on the brass body to a torque wrench, or Fumotos in my experience are very forgiving of simply hand tightening with an open end wrench - it doesn't have to be exact. I should hold an open end wrench to a torque wrench to calibrate my hand-sense. Maybe I'll do that today.

I think it's brass so that it doesn't ruin aluminum oil pans? Brass is softer than steel so I wonder if in a steel pan it would be less likely to ruin the pan as well. If it were meant for repeated removal and replacement brass would probably wear out too fast but for a one-time insertion it's strong enough and might even conform better to rough oil pan threads?

I looked up Tygon and it seems to be a brand of plastic tubing that has many different formulations but even if you tucked the hose away it would still slightly hang down. Clipping the hose or tucking it away on the car might not be that much easier than simply snapping on or off the little plastic connector they have, but I can see the appeal of not having to locate a misplaced tube. After draining, the clear plastic tube I use still has some residual oil in it and might drip a little bit or collect fine dust (would make a blackstone sample collection possibly contaminated) unless you plugged the open end.
 
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You can use a crowsfoot on the brass body to a torque wrench.... [SNIP]
When using a crow's foot wrench on a torque wrench the actual applied torque is different than the setting on the wrench (unless the crow's foot is at 90 degrees to the wrench handle. Attached (if the attachment attaches) is a pdf with calculation instructions for crow's foot wrenches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
Thank you - I'll remember the 90 degree technique forever - makes perfect sense!
 
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I replaced my Fumoto valve with a Quick valve.

Drained oil first with Fumoto valve then removed the Fumoto. I got about 4 ounces of oil.

With the capacity my 3.6 R has I do not consider 4 ounces enough to worry about.
First, the photo provided by Silver shows a drain plug side by side with a F108. Assuming the un-painted valve threads defines the area that is in contact with the female-pan-threads, the F108 threads appear not to extend into the pan area. Could it be that since the drain orifice is reduced in diameter it is the cause of the residual 4 oz of oil in the pan after draining? Need some help here because neither scenario seems fully justifiable to account for 4 oz of undrained oil to me. Your comments will be appreciated.

My last free oil change happens by the end of the year then I will be working on DIY oil changes. I am going through this forum for my 2nd time and not sure I can endure knowing I left 4 oz of dirty oil in the pan. I have done my other oil changes with the vehicle on ramps and allow the drain to take place over night; Now, if I install the Fumoto I will likely have second thoughts and maybe sleepless nights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Before I started using a Fumoto valve my sleepless nights were caused by worrying if I tightened the oil plug enough for the first day or two after an oil change. Once you put the Fumoto in and verify it's not leaking, no more sleepless nights for me.

Realistically whether a dealership is using suction through the dipstick hose, or opening the drain plug, they're not waiting around to get every single ounce out of the car. They need to do oil changes quickly. There's probably a lot more oil left in the car from a dealer oil change than using a Fumoto and giving it ample time to drain. That might explain why dealerships often overfill cars - they drain 4 quarts and add 4.5 quarts in (example).
 

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You can use a crowsfoot on the brass body to a torque wrench, or Fumotos in my experience are very forgiving of simply hand tightening with an open end wrench - it doesn't have to be exact. I should hold an open end wrench to a torque wrench to calibrate my hand-sense. Maybe I'll do that today.

I think it's brass so that it doesn't ruin aluminum oil pans? Brass is softer than steel so I wonder if in a steel pan it would be less likely to ruin the pan as well. If it were meant for repeated removal and replacement brass would probably wear out too fast but for a one-time insertion it's strong enough and might even conform better to rough oil pan threads?

I looked up Tygon and it seems to be a brand of plastic tubing that has many different formulations but even if you tucked the hose away it would still slightly hang down. Clipping the hose or tucking it away on the car might not be that much easier than simply snapping on or off the little plastic connector they have, but I can see the appeal of not having to locate a misplaced tube. After draining, the clear plastic tube I use still has some residual oil in it and might drip a little bit or collect fine dust (would make a blackstone sample collection possibly contaminated) unless you plugged the open end.
I use a crows foot to tighten the Fumoto valve. I also use a Subaru crush washer instead of the fiber washer provided by Fumoto. I first used the fiber washer, but it began to leak. Since switching to the crush washer, I have never experienced a leak. I rarely use a torque wrench, and found my connections to be trouble free (except for the Fumoto fiber washer:rolleyes:).
Brass wont rust, so I think that is a better material than steel.
I find that my oil temperature often rises above 230 degrees F, so leaving a tube connected may cause some degradation to the tube. I store a 6 inch length of tube in my tool box. I plug both ends with a wad of paper towel to catch the residual oil.
With the Fumoto valve, I don't need ramps or a lift to change the oil in my Outback. It's so simple and no mess!
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 · (Edited)
If your oil regularly goes to 230F I would consider 0w-30 or 5w-30

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You can use a crowsfoot on the brass body to a torque wrench, or Fumotos in my experience are very forgiving of simply hand tightening with an open end wrench - it doesn't have to be exact. I should hold an open end wrench to a torque wrench to calibrate my hand-sense. Maybe I'll do that today.

I think it's brass so that it doesn't ruin aluminum oil pans? Brass is softer than steel so I wonder if in a steel pan it would be less likely to ruin the pan as well. If it were meant for repeated removal and replacement brass would probably wear out too fast but for a one-time insertion it's strong enough and might even conform better to rough oil pan threads?

I looked up Tygon and it seems to be a brand of plastic tubing that has many different formulations but even if you tucked the hose away it would still slightly hang down. Clipping the hose or tucking it away on the car might not be that much easier than simply snapping on or off the little plastic connector they have, but I can see the appeal of not having to locate a misplaced tube. After draining, the clear plastic tube I use still has some residual oil in it and might drip a little bit or collect fine dust (would make a blackstone sample collection possibly contaminated) unless you plugged the open end.

Just did my oil change and installed my valve.....I may have messed up, because I was going off memory and remember people saying to not use the felt washer that was included and to use a crush washer. Mine didn't come with a felt washer which I just figured that it was left out of the packaging. It's not leaking at the moment, but wondering if I should remove the crush washer and just install the valve as is with the oring....

also protip for anyone, install this before skid plates(with drain plug access holes), you'll be able to tighten it down and orient the valve a lot easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
The F108SX has a rubber o-ring and isn't meant to be used with a felt nor a crush washer so if you haven't already put the oil in, I would try taking the crush washer off and examining the o-ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
Or they could remove the device entirely... I imagine that service departments see a lot more Fumotos than any other drain valve but if you notify the service advisor and give them the drain tool then hopefully nothing gets lost or tossed. So far I've never had a service department do an oil change for me in 45 years of driving so it may not ever come up.
 

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Have this same one myself - fits great, nice design. First time I've moved away from Fumoto in 10+ years but I simply didn't care SX setup on this 2.4.
I'm glad to hear that, I was hoping someone else had it. Yeah, my last vehicle had fumoto but I just wasn't feeling it for the 2.4 application.
 

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The F108SX looks like a guaranteed fit and the benefit is that it can be rotated so that the control and nozzle are facing where you want. https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/f108sx.html
Not sure if anyone else has noted this, but fumotooildrainvalve.com has a bad cert for the domain. If I use fumotousa.com instead it has the correct cert. F108SX: Position Adjustable Oil Drain Valve with M16-1.5

That links to the 2021 one as they don't have 2022 in the year picker yet. I assume it will work just the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
I'll change my link in the earlier post - thanks for the heads up.
 
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