Subaru Outback Forums banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2003 ll bean non vdc. Rear right clunks for ten seconds then stops. Not brakes or lug nuts. cv boot looks good. A little bit of in and out play on axle between cv boot and rear diff. Just a little bit of in and out. Installed fwd fuse and the car clunks just once then no clunks. never clunks in reverse. Parts in diff that hold cv axle bad and it is popping in and out? Drive shaft doesnt spin with fuse in right? what else doesnt spin while in fwd mode? Can I drive the car fifty miles at highway speed to get it to a shop? Do I need a shop or can a subaru idiot who can change brakes and minor stuff on other cars (oh and once the clutch in a 77 ford pu ) fix what ales are baby?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I usually write complete sentences, and actually wrote a better post, that didnt post. So this is the abbrievated version.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,885 Posts
Too many variables. A bad diff bearing, pinion bearing, broken gear, loose joint in the axle, loose park brake, loose caliper assembly, missing hardware on the pads, worn bushing(s) in the suspension.

Turning off the AWD removes the torque from the rear wheels, but all the parts will continue to move. If the sound deadens with torque removed then you have it narrowed to the diff and suspension components.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The car is in park in our driveway. I get in and reverse up the drive with no noise. Then I put the car in drive and turn right and begin to move forward. The noise starts, clunk clunk clunk seems to be synchronized with the speed of the car and not the rpms. It clunks ,loud and is saying I'm definetely broken for ten or fifteen seconds then it stops and everything feels pretty normal. That description is the test runs before I installed the fwd fuse. After installing the fwd fuse, under the exact same conditions (under fifteen mph) It clunks once when I start to move forward then feels fine. We arent driving the car as we have a spare car. It clunks while going straight after the right turn and is definetely in the rear and fairly sure in the right rear and not the center rear. After the clunking stops, I drove around for five minutes under 30mph trying to get it to reproduce the sound with out any luck, but im pretty sure if I removed the fuse and tested it again it would do the same thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Last bit doesnt read right. With the fuse out (normal mode) After the clunking stops, I drove around for a while and couldnt get it to clunk again. I have a suspicion that it is related to the e/m safety test I just had done where they appeared to use a flat 6 x 8 lift that seemed to pick up the cars whole under body. My dad says they wouldnt do it that way and that they have dogs that catch the frame. I'm suspicious because right after the inspection, the interlock is really loud. I asked them what the sound was and they said it was normal. If it were normal, it would have been making that noise when I bought the car less than a week ago and have been actively listening to. Had a thread going about that and CN Dave suggested that the interlock might have shifted and is now pressed against something acting as a sounding board. When I put my hand on the shifter down on the console, I can feel the interlock as well as hear it. Now I'm having night mares about broken trans mounts and all kinds of stuff. They wouldnt pick a car up like that right? All the cat converters are new and still look the same. So I'm hoping I'm paranoid. Working twelve hrs a day right now and havent been able to do much except crawl under and tug on stuff a little.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Also, you should know that I have a set of new ish tires on the front and a different brand on the rear. They seem to have the same amount of tread left. Didnt know about potential issues till after I bought the car, and likely would have bought it anyway because of the stack of recipts, the general condition and the 4000 price. I bought it thinking, even if something major goes, I'm still in good shape. Goes down the road straight as an arrow, no weird noises when turning but I didnt do a figure eight test when I bought it. I'm hoping its something simple.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Yes , bang bang bang bang. banging speeds up and slows down if I go faster or slower. Sorry I'm so scattered, have a newborn here and am not sleeping great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I wouldnt say the sound deadens when in the awd is disabled. The noise has the same intensity, but it is only one bang. I have been looking for a haynes manual but am having trouble finding one for the h6.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,354 Posts
Also, you should know that I have a set of new ish tires on the front and a different brand on the rear.
If this isn't the whole problem, it is probably where the trouble started. Hopefully it hasn't gone too badly from there. Get matched tires on all four corners pronto, or at a dead minimum you need to measure them with a tape around the circumference and verify that there is no difference. Even then you should prepare to match them up as different tires will wear at different rates.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,401 Posts
if it mostly clunks in turns.... it could be torque bind. this is sometimes caused by different sized tires on the front and rear.

the awd unit in these cars needs the front tire and the rear tires to be with in 1/4 inch in circumference. if they are not within that spec it could cause clunking in turns.

BUT, the FWD fuse should eliminate the clunking if it is tire related.
it should also eliminate all torque bind cause by anything if the duty C is operating correctly.

put in the fuse and drive it to an empty parking lot. drive the car in tight slow circles, both directions. does it clunk? if yes, how much, how often?

remove the fuse and try again. does it clunk? if yes, how much, how often?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,298 Posts
If it happens at slow speed, and is repeatable, see if you can drive the car (as described) and have someone else walk alongside to better identify where the clunking is coming from. (Or have someone drive while you listen beside the car.) This would be far better than trying to identify the source from inside.

Then, when the area (front, rear, center, right side, left side) has been identified, get the car up on a lift and see if there's anything apparent, and look for damage in the areas where you saw the lift engage the car. Turn the wheel, or wheels, by hand and see if the sound can be repeated. Watch the rear propeller shaft for an odd rotating pattern.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I'm going to go try the figure eight tests now, but on my other test runs, it definetely clunked alot while gong straight. I figured the fact that it produces a steady bang bang bang bang without the fuse and only bangs once with the fuse would be a dead give away for you guys. I'm really hoping it is the drive axle or something with the cv axle. I am hoping to drive the car fifty miles on the highway this weekend to get it to some guys I trust. If this is a really bad idea that could cause more damage let me know. I can borrow a flat bed trailer and tow it up if need be. Wish I had time, a manual and a garage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Tonights test run. Left the house with fuse in. no clunking at all. Drove one mile to empty parking lot, did tight figure eights no clunking. pulled fuse out and drove straight, clunking for 70 yards at 5 mph.Clunking is not as loud as yesterday. only difference is the temp out side. colder today. Did another straight run with little to no clunking. Started the figure eight test with no fuse, no clunking at all while turning either direction. Good news... Also, tires all measure the same. Definetely with in a quarter inch, probably inside of an eigth inch if any difference at all. Bolstered by aceing the figure eights, decided to do a highway run in awd mode.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
No noise on the highway that was loud enough to overcome the mirror noise. Got off the highway and back in my neighborhood. clunking is now a completely different sound. It sounds like a two part squeak now. rrrrummm pause rrruuuuummmm pause, again synchronized with tire rolling forward. Thought maybe it is self adjusters in brakes. so backed up fast and hit the brakes. Then thought oh, disc brakes. So reversing fast and hitting the brakes, then pulling forward produces one clunk. Thinking I'm probably safe to drive it fifty miles to the shop in fwd mode? U joint? I did feel some vibration at highway speeds, but the car is so new to me it's hard to tell. I would say it feels different. Am hoping drive axle or cv joint. what the heck is it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,967 Posts
brakes do not have the adjusters you think. parking brake needs manual adjustment.

lift the rear end up on jacks and see if the tires can be rocked up-down, left right. maybe a bad bearing or control arm bushing.

can someone drive the car while you pace it outside to determine left/right/center source for the noise?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,401 Posts
rear wheel bearing. and i bet it is really bad.

some times the parts line up right and work, but when they don't you get clunking. check the wheel bearings.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,885 Posts
Could also be worn bushings in the rear suspension. Strut mount???? Loose Caliper???????? Loose brake pad due to lost/broken pad hardware????

Should be safe to drive unless its constant and very loud. Subaru builds safety margins into the cars to account for broken/worn parts that occur while off pavement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the advice. Would a bad rear wheel bearing act differently when the car is in fwd mode? I know there is torque to the wheels when in awd mode, but the bearings turn in both modes the same way right? Not doubting your input at all,just trying to understand the wheel bearing better. Our last subaru had a wheel bearing that went bad, in the right rear. It made a constant rumble till we got it fixed. i know they can fail in different ways. This car made absolutely no noise at all. Do the bearings sometimes fail all at once? Anyway, I finally have a day off tomorrow and can spend some time with the problem. Thanks so much and I will post what I find.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,354 Posts
I'm buying into cardoc's theory. the bearing would get different stresses when rolling along vs. when torque was transmitted through it. I could see that accounting for the change in noise.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
About this Discussion
20 Replies
8 Participants
idosubaru
Subaru Outback Forums
Welcome to the Subaru Outback Owners Forum, we have tons of information about your Subaru Outback, from a Subaru Outback Wiki to customer reviews.
Full Forum Listing
Top