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2005 LL Bean
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138 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So, since I have the infamous P0420 code, I am going to run through the easy/cheap things that I'd like to do anyways. One of these is swapping the plugs. Is this possible (albeit, more difficult) without unbolting and jacking the engine? I did them on my 98 2.5 with no issues, granted it was tight. Should I just plan to do it the easy way and make some room? I have yet to crawl under this car. I am a motorcycle tech and am used to getting creative in tight spots, lol.

Aside from those, I'll probably put in a new air filter and PCV. I also assume you can do resistance tests (hot and cold etc.) with the o2 to see if they are at fault?
 

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2005 LL Bean
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138 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I'm going to attack it tomorrow. Looks tight, but I think I'll be OK.
 

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2011 Tacoma TRD Sport Double Cab Long Box
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2005 LL Bean
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138 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thx for the link. I have some 1" adapters I use all the time. Some good tips there. Why do it cold? Is the header right there? The plugs should be easier to get out if they are warm. One way I've always used to free a tough plug is by warming the engine up prior to removal.
 

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Aluminum heads. Always change plugs when the engine is dead-nuts cold. Differential expansion between steel spark plug and aluminum head. If the engine is warm, it's possible to strip the threads right out.
 

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2005 LL Bean
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Discussion Starter #7
Finally got around to changing the plugs tonight. My last attempt was interrupted by an emergency a-arm bushing swap. Who knew they weren't supposed to be in 2 pieces, lol. Anyways, took me just shy of 2 hrs, including a beer break. Not too bad. Glad I don't have to do them for another 60k, but I am glad I did. They looked fairly old.
 

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Good thing you did them now. I bought a 2001 with 100K miles on it. after 1K miles, it had a mis-fire in cyl 1. Changed the spark plugs only to discover they were the original plugs... The one in cyl 1 had separated from the steel.

Fun stuff!
 
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