Next you will remove the shifter (as indicated in the instructions), remove the rubber mat in the storage pocket in front of the shifter (use a trim tool to lift it from the front, it just sits in there) and then remove the actual shifter. To remove the shifter just give the shiny plastic trim piece a small tug and it pops off and down. CAREFULLY remove the spring clip, just push it forward from the ends and then you can lift the shifter off. The end of the shifter is covered in grease, so careful where you put it down.
Now you can pop up the center console. Just lift from the front, where you removed the rubber mat, and lift up and back. It will kind of swing up.
Underneath the console cover there are 3 harnesses you need to disconnect, one for each heated seat and a 3rd that probably provides power to the lights under the gear selector.
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For the heated seats make sure to note which side is which, they are kind of color coded.
Brown to brown
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White to gray
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Once the three harnesses are disconnected you can remove the console cover for later.
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With the console cover removed you now have to remove the side trim pieces.
Remove the 2 screws first, then they are just held in place with 4 clips. I worked the piece off from the seats towards the front of the car.
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The console is now naked.
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The next step is to remove the center trim panel around the radio and vents. As others have mentioned in other write-ups the best way is pop this out is to push from behind.
What I did was, sitting in the passenger seat, I snaked my arm around from the driver's side and then up into the cavity behind the dash pocket (underneath the radio). I then pushed with my left hand from behind while pulling from within the pocket with my right hand. There are 6 or 8 clips holding it in place. Pushing it out should disengage a few and from there you can just pull it out.
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Once that's removed you need to remove the HVAC controls. For the auto climate there are just 2 screws and 4 clips holding it in place, remove the screws and then you can just pull it out.
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Once the HVAC is out you need to cut a hold in the reflective insulation for the front pocket. You can actually feel the hole if you touch the roof of the pocket from the inside, there is a hole with the sticky side of the insulation tape exposed. I just got a small knife and cut around the hole from the top.
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Now it's time to pull out the LED wiring. This wire is about 8 feet long and there are a piece segments (cupholder and driver footwell) that are a foot or more too long.
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Just follow the directions to thread it through the car- remember to put it UNDER the wool fire insulation otherwise you'll have to re-route some of it like I did.
You are going to feed the end with the two male ends for the wiring harness through the right side of the car towards the door. I pulled enough of the wiring through that I was able to tuck the fuse into this little pocket so I can get to it later if need be.
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At this point I carefuly pulled all the LEDs where they needed to be: passenger side, driver's side, cubby, and cupholders.
Route the passenger LED through the square hole provided up on the underside of the footwell.
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Attach the LED and the LED bracket, as described in the instructions, and then clip the bracket into place. It will only go in one way (easily) so just pay attention before you try to cram it in there.
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I went ahead and routed the driver's side LED at this point, this is where you are going to have a lot of excess cable. I bunched it up and ziptied it near the wiring harnesses that are on the outer edge of the footwell. The LED bracket mounting point is hard to find at first, there is a flimsy piece of black plastic trim similar to the piece you removed on the passenger side. The hole for the bracket is on this flimsy piece, on an extrusion. Once it was all connected I zip-tied the excess up behind this plastic trim piece and kind of tucked it up there. There might be a better way to do it but it's kind of tight where the firewall meets the harnesses and where the water line is for the rear wiper.
Now you can pop up the center console. Just lift from the front, where you removed the rubber mat, and lift up and back. It will kind of swing up.
Underneath the console cover there are 3 harnesses you need to disconnect, one for each heated seat and a 3rd that probably provides power to the lights under the gear selector.
For the heated seats make sure to note which side is which, they are kind of color coded.
Brown to brown
White to gray
Once the three harnesses are disconnected you can remove the console cover for later.
With the console cover removed you now have to remove the side trim pieces.
Remove the 2 screws first, then they are just held in place with 4 clips. I worked the piece off from the seats towards the front of the car.
The console is now naked.
The next step is to remove the center trim panel around the radio and vents. As others have mentioned in other write-ups the best way is pop this out is to push from behind.
What I did was, sitting in the passenger seat, I snaked my arm around from the driver's side and then up into the cavity behind the dash pocket (underneath the radio). I then pushed with my left hand from behind while pulling from within the pocket with my right hand. There are 6 or 8 clips holding it in place. Pushing it out should disengage a few and from there you can just pull it out.
Once that's removed you need to remove the HVAC controls. For the auto climate there are just 2 screws and 4 clips holding it in place, remove the screws and then you can just pull it out.
Once the HVAC is out you need to cut a hold in the reflective insulation for the front pocket. You can actually feel the hole if you touch the roof of the pocket from the inside, there is a hole with the sticky side of the insulation tape exposed. I just got a small knife and cut around the hole from the top.
Now it's time to pull out the LED wiring. This wire is about 8 feet long and there are a piece segments (cupholder and driver footwell) that are a foot or more too long.
Just follow the directions to thread it through the car- remember to put it UNDER the wool fire insulation otherwise you'll have to re-route some of it like I did.
You are going to feed the end with the two male ends for the wiring harness through the right side of the car towards the door. I pulled enough of the wiring through that I was able to tuck the fuse into this little pocket so I can get to it later if need be.
At this point I carefuly pulled all the LEDs where they needed to be: passenger side, driver's side, cubby, and cupholders.
Route the passenger LED through the square hole provided up on the underside of the footwell.
Attach the LED and the LED bracket, as described in the instructions, and then clip the bracket into place. It will only go in one way (easily) so just pay attention before you try to cram it in there.
I went ahead and routed the driver's side LED at this point, this is where you are going to have a lot of excess cable. I bunched it up and ziptied it near the wiring harnesses that are on the outer edge of the footwell. The LED bracket mounting point is hard to find at first, there is a flimsy piece of black plastic trim similar to the piece you removed on the passenger side. The hole for the bracket is on this flimsy piece, on an extrusion. Once it was all connected I zip-tied the excess up behind this plastic trim piece and kind of tucked it up there. There might be a better way to do it but it's kind of tight where the firewall meets the harnesses and where the water line is for the rear wiper.
