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18 horizontally opposed cylinders of fury
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If the size & specified placement of the Gen5 factory remote start antenna transceiver bothers you enough that you want to relocate it, here is a way to do so.

I made an extension harness for the transceiver & removed enough interior trim to route it to a less noticeable spot on the rear fixed side glass. All other aspects of the factory kit are unchanged. I did this relocation as part of installing the system prior to dealer activation with their SSM computer.

The transceiver connects to the remote start module with a 5 conductor ribbon cable. The transceiver end has a very compact plug with a bit of sheath around the wires since this is slightly visible. The module end is a style similar to an audio cable connecting a CD drive to the motherboard in an old school PC. The extension harness is just some matching ribbon cable with appropriate mating connectors at either end.

I used this 5 conductor cable. I didn't measure the precise length but 10 feet is more than enough.

The end that plugs into the remote start module is a male plug with female terminals, having a retaining tab on one side & insertion guides on the other side. I used Molex 15-38-8050 & it includes the terminals.

The end of the extension cable that connects to the factory transceiver cable is a female housing with male terminals, having a catch for the retaining tab on one side & slots for the guides on the other side. I used Molex 70107-0004 & the pins (Molex 16-02-0114) are sold separately.

The male pins crimped easily with a common terminal crimper but the female terminals did not & I ended up applying a dot of solder on each to assure the connection- only a speck or it may not insert into the housing.

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Correctly routing the transceiver harness, with tape & zip ties to secure it against noise & vibration, requires removal of interior trim. Since trim is often lapped or overlaid, you end up removing lower pieces to work your way to higher pieces. The FSM is the best source of diagrams & sequences for teardown without damaging retaining tabs & push-fit pegs.

I adhered the transceiver to the glass first & routed the foam-covered factory harness down the C pillar. There were no free holes to tie down this harness so I cleaned the surface with rubbing alcohol & used good duct tape. Next I routed the wire back behind the seat belt spool & the reclining seat mechanism. The harness is securely tied & taped so it can't interfere with either. The harness continues down the door opening so it can route towards the module in the driver's footwell via an existing raceway containing a large harness. I don't have photos but you can remove the door sill trim after pulling the rear seat bottom.

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The factory transceiver harness connects to my extension harness in the vicinity of the rear door sill. Secure the extension harness to the raceway large harness with tape, zip ties, & a few of the large harness tie-downs can be loosened to add the new wire, then re-tighten. Remove the front door sill trim & footwell trim to complete routing of the extension harness. I cut it to length in the footwell, attached the female terminals & snapped those into the housing. Ensure you install these terminals correctly so that each of the 5 conductors is in the correct position. Snap that into the remote start module to complete the wiring.

The C pillar trim has an intentional gap between it & the glass, so that gap is enough to pass the sheathed end of the harness through to the transceiver without making a notch in the plastic. It's possible that operating range is slightly diminished with the transceiver behind the factory tinted glass, but at the range I use it everything works correctly.
 

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2010 Outback 3.6R 2014 Legacy 2.5i
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the harness should be long enough to reach to any point at the top the windshield I have mine located right in lne with my mirror wire cover
 
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