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Obviously. I've just been dragging it out to see how long it might take before he figures it out. At first I just thought it might be a typo but the Red Dot and Yellow Dot has been mentioned too many times to just be a typo. :ROFLMAO:
Oh, I don't know. There is a lot of parroting what others have said as if one understands and is now an expert because I Saw It On The Internet.

Consider the term "OEM" and how it is almost never correctly used. OEM is the Original Equipment Manufacturer. It is not a part, it is who made the part. Go to the parts store and buy "OEM brake pads" and you will get pads made by the same company as made the OE (Original Equipment) brake pads. That does not mean you purchased the same brake pads as came on the car.

We hear Johnson Controls makes recent Outback batteries. Johnson Controls also makes Optima. So boys and girls take note: Your beloved premium Optima battery is OEM. Never mind Subaru never used an Optima. An Optima is not OE but it is OEM. If "OEM is junk" then an Optima must be junk too.
 

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The ONLY battery I've ever had fail prematurely on me was an Optima red top. For what they cost, it should have been the best battery I've owned, but it turned out to be the worst. Maybe it was just bad luck, but I won't buy another Optima. I've had good luck with the AutoCraft Gold series at Advance Auto Parts.
 

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Has anyone replaced the OEM lame battery with a better one?

Was doing some work on our 3.6 and after 2 hours with the dome lights on (yes, my fault for not shutting off) a dead battery quickly ensued. While charging I saw it had all of 490 CCA, which to me says it may be weak and underpowered. Just replaced battery in my older Legacy with whatever Sears unit Consumers liked. Something like 700 CCA and, I perhaps wrongly assume, has more capacity. About $100. The battery tray has ample room it would seem.

Anyone dump the factory battery for a bigger and, I hope,, better one? If so, why? What did you get?
I work at a large auto auction and we have up to 1000 Subaru's at times. It's a common joke about how we have to jump start about half of them to run them thru the sale. I own a 2012 and a 2019 Outback. Replaced the 2012s battery about 2 years ago and put in a Walmart MAXX battery with over 700 CCA. OEM battery sucks.
 

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I work at a large auto auction and we have up to 1000 Subaru's at times. It's a common joke about how we have to jump start about half of them to run them thru the sale. I own a 2012 and a 2019 Outback. Replaced the 2012s battery about 2 years ago and put in a Walmart MAXX battery with over 700 CCA. OEM battery sucks.
Which group size did you install?
 

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Apparently reading so much about certain problems here makes me become either excessively over-prepared or paranoid. I'm going to be out of town for several days next week and in checking the car out to get on the road I decided to top off the charge in my lithium jump pack. Then I decided that just in case I end up with a dead battery in an unfamiliar area and also experience a failure in the jump pack I keep in the Outback I might as well check the charge in my NOCO GB70 that I carry in my truck and take that along as a second backup. I wonder if I should throw the jumper cables in as well. 😄
 

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Apparently reading so much about certain problems here makes me become either excessively over-prepared or paranoid. I'm going to be out of town for several days next week and in checking the car out to get on the road I decided to top off the charge in my lithium jump pack. Then I decided that just in case I end up with a dead battery in an unfamiliar area and also experience a failure in the jump pack I keep in the Outback I might as well check the charge in my NOCO GB70 that I carry in my truck and take that along as a second backup. I wonder if I should throw the jumper cables in as well. 😄
Also bring a tender with you, and a generator to run it, and pull over every few hours to throw the tender on! Just in case!
 

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FWIW - this is relevant to anyone worrying about the "dead battery scenario"...

In another thread, I found a scenario where one can exit the car with the car essentially still turned on, but without the traditional bing bing bing one would typically hear when opening the doors. The center console display does tell you to shut off the car when the door is opened, but doesn't bing like it normally would to grab your attention.

Here it is:
Pull into driveway or garage with the radio on. Put the shifter in a position other than Park (I've done this in Neutral) and proceed to "Turn the car off" (or think that you've done so since the engine stops). Now realize you need to place it all the way in Park. I believe there will be a message on the center console display saying you should put it in Park as a reminder.

Exit the vehicle and close door. Note, the radio is still on!!!

The question is - might this scenario be at root cause for people coming out the next day to the car with a dead battery? I personally think it's a possibility.

See the attached image which is found on page 7-13 of the '19 manual. Owners Manual

Subaru warns you about this scenario, but it's one people might not know about, and there's more... If you've normally tried to leave the vehicle in ACC mode (say you wanted to listen to the radio when parked somewhere), the car would normally generate the bing bing bing audio warning and you'd look at the display, and you'd shut the car off before getting out and closing the door right? I wager this has happened to many of us.

But in this atypical engine off scenario I mention, (have you RTM cover to cover?), you can exit the vehicle with ACC still on, BUT without that additional helpful audio warning that clues you to look at the center console and turn off the car before exiting and closing the door.

I think I will be bringing the audio bing bing bing warning omission to the attention of SOA.

Now if you've got the guts, test this and see if the car automatically goes into a low-power mode by itself or not after the "time-out period". :devilish: :p:LOL:o_O Actually don't allow your battery to be discharged. That is generally not good to do purposefully, let alone accidentally.
 

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Now if you've got the guts, test this and see if the car automatically goes into a low-power mode by itself or not after the "time-out period". :devilish: :p:LOL:o_O Actually don't allow your battery to be discharged. That is generally not good to do purposefully, let alone accidentally.
There are always quite a few people here driving loaner Subarus for various reasons. Maybe someone with a loaner could give it a try.:devilish:
 

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For what it's worth, here's my anecdote.
My 2016 Premium 2.5 now has passed the 4 year mark and has over 85,000 miles. The only time it didn't start immediately was when I left the dome light on in the airport parking garage and took off letting it sit for 5 days. The battery was completely discharged when I returned. Got a jump start and it charged back up on the 20 mile ride home. That was 3 years ago.
It sits outside at work for 9 hours in temperatures as low as -20°F and always starts right up.
I probably just jinxed myself.
Still, I've learned a lot about batteries from reading this thread!
 

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Didn't think I was going to post on this thread so soon.

My 2016 3.6R OEM battery (490 CCA) suddenly started having problem. Battery lasted 3.5-years in Calgary, AB Canada, even though I used battery tender by Ctek. Was hoping it would last 5-years...sigh

I replaced it with Costco Kirkland Signature Group 25 battery - 650 CCA for $135.00 Cdn or approx. $100 USD.
Hopefully this one will last 5 years....
 

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I've had the battery in my Audi last (can't remember brand) 8yrs, but that was the exception. Most batteries I've owned died around the 4-5yr period.
 

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I've always had pretty good luck with batteries. The OE battery in my Jeep lasted nearly 5 years before needing replacement. I got 7 years out of 4 deep cycle Interstate GC2 batteries in my motorcoach despite having them discharged below 50% on at least two occasions. The starting batteries, also Interstates, in the same coach (installed by previous owner) lasted nearly 8 years. It's likely that I won't replace the battery in my '19 OB until it begins to have issues. No point in spending money prematurely.
 

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How many of you check the water level in your battery. There is no such thing as a maintenance-free battery, and yes you can add distilled water to them. They had to put the acid and water into them to begin with. They access plugs are usually under the strip of writing.

The reason you need to add distilled water is that during the charging and discharging process, more so during charging, is that both hydrogen and oxygen gases are being produced. (the reason for the warning of no sparks) The way the gases are being produced is that the water molecules H20 are being separated from each other to produce the gases. This water is not replaced so eventually level drops and plates become uncovered and the battery becomes less efficient.

So pull the fill plugs and check the level, The acid stays, you just need to add distilled water.

Eric Baatz EM1(SS) retired

We had big lead acid batteries on submarines and we added a lot of distilled water.
 

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How many of you check the water level in your battery. There is no such thing as a maintenance-free battery, and yes you can add distilled water to them. They had to put the acid and water into them to begin with. They access plugs are usually under the strip of writing.
AGM butteries should not have water added even if there us a way to add.

But the OE Subaru battery is not AGM and should have levels checked at least every oil change.
 

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How many of you check the water level in your battery. There is no such thing as a maintenance-free battery...
Personally, I'd only bother with deep cycle batteries. Modern starter batteries are generally designed (and advertised) to be "maintenance-free", and they definitely don't lose water anywhere near as fast as they used to. Just because you can, doesn't mean it's really necessary, IMO.
 

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Personally, I'd only bother with deep cycle batteries. Modern starter batteries are generally designed (and advertised) to be "maintenance-free", and they definitely don't lose water anywhere near as fast as they used to. Just because you can, doesn't mean it's really necessary, IMO.
Of course it is not necessary! Just replace the battery when it fails! You can do this with engines and motor oil too!

For a little effort plus the price of a little distilled water one can more than double the life of a wet lead-acid battery. Agree battery manufacturers make some effort to minimize water loss but the marketing push for "maintenance free" batteries ended decades ago. Marketing was pushing batteries which were not really maintenance free but would last to the end of the warranty before failing.

The only truly maintenance free battery for your Subaru is AGM or lithium.
 

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Seems we both have opinions on this topic, but mine was just that, an opinion, which I clearly stated. This is a bold claim. Do you have data to back it up?
I don't have a clue about the specific data but I have seen others here mention finding the water level low in their original Subaru batteries. I took mine out after only about 6 months of use and it has been sitting on the bench in my shop since then. I might check it out of curiosity one of these days. I've been putting a battery tender on it occasionally to make sure it doesn't drop too much from sitting.
I haven't checked the Everstart I replaced the original battery with.
 

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Second battery failure. This time Autozone Duralast battery failed after 7 months. Took the car into the dealer for an oil change/tire rotation and was told my battery was "bad" even though I have had zero problems. I should have asked what was wrong. Took the car back to Autozone and they tested it. They also told me it was "bad" .I asked what was wrong and the salesman said he did not know, :) The tester machine just said replace. The end result was a new battery at no charge. Not good, IMO, that my 3-year-old vehicle has been through three batteries. Glad I keep a jump starter in my OB. :)
 
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