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Makes me wonder if you could use a piece of radiant barrier insulation (the silver bubble wrap stuff you use in attics) and make a new batter cover. Something like this:
 

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2020 Onyx
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9,515 Posts
The only thing I can think of that can go wrong with that would be if the reflective insulation is electrically conductive if somehow the (aluminum?) reflective layer makes contact with the positive terminal somehow, so if you use a metalized film type of thing cut out generous space around the positive terminal area.
 

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2015 3.6R Limited w/ES
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3,678 Posts

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107 Posts
Funny, that Costco site seems to be deliberately designed to force you into selecting the OE group size for your vehicle, since I see no other way to browse inventory. But, yeah, if you insist on a Costco battery, a group 24 (item #: 852163) is only $20 more and gives you 30% more RC. If they'll allow you to purchase it.
I checked a week or so ago at our Costco and first thing he asked was car model, which then steered him to the Group 25. When I told him I wanted something larger, either a G34 or 24, he was adamant that it would not be covered under warranty. I'm sure I could have bought a larger battery to install myself without giving him car info, or giving him my old classic car which wouldn't be in the database, and maybe would be OK with warranty if the battery would fail within 3 years. I ended up buying an AGM from Sams Club, they didn't ask any questions...
 

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The only thing I can think of that can go wrong with that would be if the reflective insulation is electrically conductive if somehow the (aluminum?) reflective layer makes contact with the positive terminal somehow, so if you use a metalized film type of thing cut out generous space around the positive terminal area.
That would be my concern, too.
 

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2017 2.5i Premium Lapis Blue
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I just left the thin piece of plastic off of mine. I think Subaru included it as an attempt to try to hide their poor excuse of a battery.
 

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2017 2.5i Premium Lapis Blue
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I checked a week or so ago at our Costco and first thing he asked was car model, which then steered him to the Group 25. When I told him I wanted something larger, either a G34 or 24, he was adamant that it would not be covered under warranty. I'm sure I could have bought a larger battery to install myself without giving him car info, or giving him my old classic car which wouldn't be in the database, and maybe would be OK with warranty if the battery would fail within 3 years. I ended up buying an AGM from Sams Club, they didn't ask any questions...
If they start playing that game just tell them it is for your 1982 Subaru Brat 1.8L, manual transmission with power steering. 😁
 

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Used a different browser and the group 25 interstate battery from Costco is $79.99 in my area. 3 yr replacement warranty, 550 CCA and RC 100. That's a great deal, sounds like it'll be my next battery.
Take the advice of our resident expert Electrical Engineer in post 1717 above- from him I learned that it is not only the numbers ( RC & CCA ) but the physical size allowing for silt over time that make for a good choice! As for the cozy, you can also make a replacement from Amazon kits, or the most creative option: repurpose a corrugated plastic yard sign.
 

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Guess that could work. Amazon has a a few products specifically for batteries:
I got the one listed on Amazon alongside the AOPEC version: Design Engineering 010480. Nice product. As I recall it was a little more money but you get a base mat and of course tape. I still like another member's creative recommendation to use a corrugated plastic political yard sign.
 

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2015 3.6R Limited w/ES
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Coroplast is a good choice - essentially a thicker version of what Subaru has used. I think you can get inexpensive small sheets of it at Michaels or Home Depot as well.
 

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Coroplast is a good choice - essentially a thicker version of what Subaru has used. I think you can get inexpensive small sheets of it at Michaels or Home Depot as well.
"Coroplast" and "Denso Top Lock" are two great examples of how knowing the actual name of something can make finding that thing a whole lot easier!
 

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2016 2.5i Limited, 2013 Tesla Model S 85
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If you can park the car for 3 weeks unattended with no issue then you should always be able to park for at least 2 weeks. If you can do that then you should never have a problem after 3 days if the issue was “lame battery”. The 3 weeks proves the “lame battery” isn’t lame for 3 weeks.

When the problem bit me in the 6 months prior my Outback had often sat undriven for weeks at a time. 2 days prior I drove 150 miles. Day before was 30 minutes around town. Then it sat in my carport for 3 days and was dead. Battery recovered and dealer insisted it was at rated capacity. It lasted 3 more years. I am the only one who touched the car for months prior. No hatch ajar. No dome lights. No key fob near.

When this happened to me I found multiple other similar instances posted here and elsewhere. “Drive to work, battery dead at 5pm, dealer says nothing wrong with car or battery. Two weeks later it did it again, dealer insists nothing wrong.”

If the problem was just one of battery capacity then the car would always be dead after parked X number of days. (where X is a small number). It would never be dead after X/2 days. But it happens.

Now I park with a battery maintainer. Also have a Bluetooth battery voltage logger with 30 day memory.

In spite of a 3A maintainer the fuel system pressure test at 5 hours hits hard for about 10 minutes. Smaller draws also occur at unknown intervals.

I had a StarLink subscription when my battery drained. StarLink uses a cellular radio on all the time to listen to the mothership. It can wake the car and do many things other than just unlock the doors, with no log for owner to review what is being done.

How many who have had problems have ever checked the water level in their OE battery? It needs distilled water now and then.
 

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2018 Limited 3.6R
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I apologize if this has been asked already, but how do I know if my Outback has the OEM battery? I purchased a used 2018 Limited 3.6
 

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I apologize if this has been asked already, but how do I know if my Outback has the OEM battery? I purchased a used 2018 Limited 3.6
According to this thread it was 75D23R. Some 4 cyclinder outbacks have that batttery, too. (mine does) For the record, so far I haven't had any of the issues described in this thread.
 

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2015 3.6R Limited w/ES
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You might have to remove the hold-down bracket, or even pull the battery out completely, to see exactly what's installed. I think by 2018 the stock battery was updated to part number SOA821B400 (at least that's what we got here in the states, it's possible Subaru Canada was using something else). My dealer installed that as a replacement for my original battery and it didn't last very long. It had a sticker on top with a Subaru logo but most of it was covered by the bracket so you couldn't tell much by what was visible.
 
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