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Here are photos from the OE battery I pulled a couple of weeks ago from our 2017 2.5. No Subaru logo, but it was original to the car from new.
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2016 2.5i Limited, 2013 Tesla Model S 85
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I apologize if this has been asked already, but how do I know if my Outback has the OEM battery? I purchased a used 2018 Limited 3.6
There are only 3 major automobile battery manufacturers in North America. So there is 1 chance in 3 you have an OEM battery even if the battery did not come OE in your car.
 

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2016 2.5i Limited, 2013 Tesla Model S 85
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Whats happening:

2016 Outback OE battery was found dead parked for 3 days on my carport at 6 months of age. Under 5 volts, but a "stupid" charger brought it up to the point a smart charger could finish the job. Dealer proclaimed nothing amiss with car or battery. One cell finally failed at 42 months.

2013 Tesla Model S also has a 12V battery. 35Ah deep cycle AGM. Original failed at 40 months, was replaced under warranty. The replacement is now in failure at 48 months and my supposed extended warranty no longer covers this "wear item". A 3rd party replacement is on order.

MacBook Pro battery is swelling after 4 years. Otherwise has good capacity.

Much older iPad Air 2 battery finally gave out.

Friend's Goldwing was found "dead in garage" yesterday. 6 month old Yuasa battery. We still don't know if battery or alternator is the problem. Only found 11 mA vampire draw.

Lame batteries are everywhere!
 

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19 2.5i OB LTD w/SSD Strt Twr Brc + OEM 19mm RSB
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There is this TSB: 07-179-20 regarding the lift gate module. Besides that, there is a means to leave the vehicle in a high current-draw state because of questionable programming somewhere. I believe it was this scenario: drive into the garage. Put the car in Neutral and shut off the engine. Now put it in Park. Does the center display indicate turn off engine before exiting the vehicle or something like that? Exit the vehicle. See if the current draw goes down to a very low level or not 30min after the vehicle is shut off... Yes, there are very lame batteries, but I think there remains a fundamental software issue. YMMV.
 
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2015 3.6R Limited w/ES
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Yeah, the PB start system apparently confuses some folks, but the system evolved some in later Gen 5s. All I know is, on my 2015, shutting the engine off in N drops the ignition into ACC. If you were to get out and close the door at that point, you'd get a constant loud beep from outside the vehicle. If, after stopping in N, you shift into P, then, as you said, the cluster display will be telling you the ignition still needs to be shut off (still in ACC). If you were to get out and close the door at that point, 3 loud beeps would sound from outside the vehicle. Same as if you just got in and pressed the start button, without starting the engine, and then attempted to walk away. If those beeps don't get your attention, then, yes, you may return to a dead battery.

I'm not sure if the N > ACC thing was an error or if it was left that way deliberately. On 2015s, it's the only way to stop the engine without interrupting a phone call or whatever it is I'm listening to (because it keeps the infotainment system powered up). I'm just glad there's a way to do that because I hate idling the engine for no reason.
 

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I got the one listed on Amazon alongside the AOPEC version: Design Engineering 010480. Nice product. As I recall it was a little more money but you get a base mat and of course tape. I still like another member's creative recommendation to use a corrugated plastic political yard sign.
I second this; the DEI wrapper worked very well for me (on a group 24)

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

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2015 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5i NO Eyesight. I rely on my own Eyesight
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I had replaced the original battery in my 2015 OB 2.5L last year in January. My mechanic replaced it with a AC Delco 25PS. 550CCA. I noticed if the car isnt used for 3 days the battery drains and during the winter when I start the car the idle is high and for about 3 seconds it sputters like the engine is dying.
I mentioned this to my mechanic and he told me it might be the battery. I have a Noco charger so charged it.

I want to replace this again with a better battery. I see the consensus is replace with group 24 batt as that fits but what brands are good? I was originally looking at the Odyssey 1400 but it was very expensive that time. I wish I had bought it though, would have avoided this mess.

Please recommend . Thanks
 

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2020 Onyx
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9,513 Posts
I had replaced the original battery in my 2015 OB 2.5L last year in January. My mechanic replaced it with a AC Delco 25PS. 550CCA. I noticed if the car isnt used for 3 days the battery drains and during the winter when I start the car the idle is high and for about 3 seconds it sputters like the engine is dying.
I mentioned this to my mechanic and he told me it might be the battery. I have a Noco charger so charged it.

I want to replace this again with a better battery. I see the consensus is replace with group 24 batt as that fits but what brands are good? I was originally looking at the Odyssey 1400 but it was very expensive that time. I wish I had bought it though, would have avoided this mess.

Please recommend . Thanks
The Odyssey 1400 has been discontinued. You can get a cheaper Odyssey that they've come out with, the ODP-AGM25

It may be available from NAPA or Autozone as well.

Did you have the TSB performed on your 2015?

 

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2015 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5i NO Eyesight. I rely on my own Eyesight
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The Odyssey 1400 has been discontinued. You can get a cheaper Odyssey that they've come out with, the ODP-AGM25

It may be available from NAPA or Autozone as well.

Did you have the TSB performed on your 2015?

Thanks for this info. I do not recall getting this TSB but will speak with my dealer about it
 

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I had replaced the original battery in my 2015 OB 2.5L last year in January. My mechanic replaced it with a AC Delco 25PS. 550CCA. I noticed if the car isnt used for 3 days the battery drains and during the winter when I start the car the idle is high and for about 3 seconds it sputters like the engine is dying.
I mentioned this to my mechanic and he told me it might be the battery. I have a Noco charger so charged it.

I want to replace this again with a better battery. I see the consensus is replace with group 24 batt as that fits but what brands are good? I was originally looking at the Odyssey 1400 but it was very expensive that time. I wish I had bought it though, would have avoided this mess.

Please recommend . Thanks
I replaced it with an Odyssey ODX-AGM34 (34-PC1500T) and you do not need the spacer.
 

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2016 Outback Premium 2.5 CVT w/EyeSight+SRVD
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Didnt think a group 34 batt will fit
Have you read any of this thread? Group 34 (not 34R!) is a well known "drop in" replacement for the OE Group 25 battery in our Outbacks. The 34 fits in the battery tray just fine, but it's ~22mm shorter (in height) than the 25.
 

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19 2.5i OB LTD w/SSD Strt Twr Brc + OEM 19mm RSB
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I rather like the EverStart Maxx 34N (800CCA) I purchased at Walmart. The fit is fine.
 

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2016 OB 2.5 Premium with Eyesight and 2018 OB Touring 3.6
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Have you read any of this thread? Group 34 (not 34R!) is a well known "drop in" replacement for the OE Group 25 battery in our Outbacks. The 34 fits in the battery tray just fine, but it's is ~22mm shorter (in height) than the 25.
I just put an interstate 34 in my 2018 OB and fit no problem and (had to remove the stock battery sleeve) I didn't notice that the height was approx 22mm shorter. The battery hold down bracket fit just fine I need to pay more attention. LOL
 

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2015 3.6R Limited w/ES
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Come on now, you don't even have to read the entire first page of this thread to find out that the group 34 fits. ;) Some even come with spacers which raise the battery up to the correct height. But a 24 would still be my choice if they're readily available in your area. Lead acid batteries, particularly those with flooded cells, do not seem to be manufactured to the same level of quality as they once were. As for brand, these days it seems that's less important than the exact model - IOW, the higher end stuff from most brands will typically outperform and outlast the lower end stuff (if going Interstate, the MTP is the only flooded model I would consider). Plenty of positive experiences reported with AGM if you find one that fits your budget.
 

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Yes, there are very lame batteries, but I think there remains a fundamental software issue. YMMV.
100% agree. Does anyone have any info on possible or confirmed source of current drain when the car is off, in park and locked with the lift gate down? I'm aware of the PRG TSB, but that only applies if the lift gate is up.

We have a 2017my and recently started having issues with dead battery. Before I replaced the battery, I did check current draw when the car is off, and after bouncing around a bit it does drop to near 0. But, even with a new battery, still having the same issue. The problem is either some intermittent current somewhere or the charging system isn't working as it should. The alternator puts out 14+ volts with the car running, but not sure if there is some kind of active regulation going that could be causing it to cut out. I will also put a logging meter on overnight.

Appreciate any input from anyone that has done any diagnostic work for this issue. I tried, but I just can't read through 1800 posts of repeating commentary to find the golden nugget of info that might be in there somewhere. :(
 
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