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Discussion Starter #1
Good morning,
I have the ChuckWagon on stands and am in progress of the pre-Canadian-winter management of things I need to do before snow.
My rear tires don't spin very easily and my parking brake is off. I feel like the insane amount of rust I've got in and under there might be causing friction or something? I will take the tire off and check but what is the correct function.. They're supposed to spin easily, right? In Neutral the fronts spin fine, and I know the Neutral doesn't matter for the rear but maybe even my parking brake just needs adjustment?
I just got a new scanner and it does parking brake relearning or something so I guess we'll have to figure out if that's (part of) the problem.
 

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It could be your brake calipers/pads. Take them off and spin the wheel. If that takes care of the problem, replace or regrease and reinstall.

The parking brake is manual on gen 2, no relearning. There is a dial behind the rear wheel to adjust.


493152
 

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hey, thx, I will check that with the brakes

took the tires off and..um, should these bars with the circles on them there be at 90° or nah?
493354


493355
 

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ok couple things..
I think the calipers were seized.. but so much wear on one side only?
493368


and I shouldn't need a body tool to get pads off, right? Last time I did anyone's brakes they almost fell out themselves IIRC.
493369
 

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this is the adjuster.. the sun was in my eyes so will adjust it when the sun is on the other side of the house.
493376


Def wasn't the calipers and pads holding the wheel from spinning.. You're right it is probably this..
In the FSM it says to remove the rotor - do I hafta?
 

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ok. adjusted the adjuster a touch on the back left and it moved a bit and I feel ok about it.
tried to adjust back right and seemed like it was adjusted all the way in that downward direction that it could go..

Attaching a vid of front & back status as of now.. any advice is appreciated..

edit: k, file's too big..
basically, front turns and feels "geary", and "correct".. back turns with effort and I can't tell if it's PB sticking or the diff (?) in the middle holding the 2 axles being potentially dry and grindy.. just don't want to open up a can of worms with the diff (if that is what it is) if it's a PB thing..
 

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took the tires off and..um, should these bars with the circles on them there be at 90° or nah?
That's your rear upper link. It's angle will change depending on where the wheel is, that looks fine.

The inner bushings on those tend to go bad, giving you a negative camber and squeaky ride.
 

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and I shouldn't need a body tool to get pads off, right? Last time I did anyone's brakes they almost fell out themselves IIRC.
No, they should slide back and forth easily, that is how your brakes release. I suspect there so no grease remaining on the ears and they were corroded in place.

I would replace pads, shims, and rotors on both sides. Make sure the guide pins are sliding well and replace the calipers if they are not working.

Rear differential or CV joints is possible. What kind of rear differential do you have? When was the last time you changed the gear oil? What way does the opposite wheel spin?

Judging by how much rust there is on there the parking brake is the first thing I would look at. You will already be removing the rotors to replace or resurface them.

Just as a sanity check, how "Easy to spin" do you mean? Have you compared to your front wheels? Did you throw the wheels back on with the brakes off to try and spin it? You won't be able to get enough leverage to spin it without it.
 

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Also, the left rear coil spring appears broken at the bottom and/or bottom spring support is partly rusted away. The spring isn't in a straight line down, as is the right side.
 

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That's your rear upper link. It's angle will change depending on where the wheel is, that looks fine.
k, sweet.

I would replace pads, shims, and rotors on both sides. Make sure the guide pins are sliding well and replace the calipers if they are not working.
Rears are finished, fronts are actually pretty thick - maybe rotor turning but front (apart from a broken spring that I haven't disclosed yet) looks pretty good to me..

Rear differential or CV joints is possible. What kind of rear differential do you have? When was the last time you changed the gear oil? What way does the opposite wheel spin?
I don't know the answers to any of those questions.. the first and third I'm not sure I fully understand the question, oh, but I do know #2.. never.

Judging by how much rust there is on there the parking brake is the first thing I would look at. You will already be removing the rotors to replace or resurface them.
sounds about right - I found my huge socket for the hub nut in my shed yesterday

Just as a sanity check, how "Easy to spin" do you mean? Have you compared to your front wheels? Did you throw the wheels back on with the brakes off to try and spin it? You won't be able to get enough leverage to spin it without it.
so, yes, actually yesterday I started it up, in neutral, with my foot on the brake (lol) and realized that I had all the components on all 4 removed so immediately shuddered at the thought of what my calipers looked like as I slowly got out of the car -- I was fully expecting to have to rebuild calipers as well.. but they all stuck so that's good, but with the car in neutral all 4 tires were moving.. in neutral.. if I pulled parking brake the back 2 stopped but front kept spinning.. I don't understand that part..

But that was with the car on.. on the topic of ease of spinning, I have the lugnuts on so I can just grab and spin and the fronts seem about the same with pads on or off.. so with the car off, the front turns about as easily as if I manually spun my washing machine and it's slightly weighted so it falls into place if you know what I mean.. and the back is, well, work.

Also, the left rear coil spring appears broken at the bottom and/or bottom spring support is partly rusted away. The spring isn't in a straight line down, as is the right side.
Yeah, I think I could use all 4 tbh
I looked briefly in FSM tn and it looks like you just unbolt them?! I thought you needed a spring compressor and it was a whole thing... If it's that easy, can I turn the ChuckWagon into a monster truck with a lift kit or something?? haha... j/k... kinda
 

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I don't know the answers to any of those questions.. the first and third I'm not sure I fully understand the question, oh, but I do know #2.. never.
I'm not sure if the base H6 comes with a limited slip rear differential. With LSDs the wheel on the other side will spin the same way as the wheel you are spinning. With an open differential like your front, the wheels will spin opposite ways.

While it probably wont fix your problem, diff oil intervals are 30k miles. The state of the magnet and oil would give the a hint on how your diff is doing.

If you do it be sure to pull the fill plug first. This is the hardest bolt on my car, I had to take it to a mechanic until I got an impact.

sounds about right - I found my huge socket for the hub nut in my shed yesterday
As far as I know you wont need to take off the axle nut, just the rotors.

Yeah, I think I could use all 4 tbh
I looked briefly in FSM tn and it looks like you just unbolt them?! I thought you needed a spring compressor and it was a whole thing... If it's that easy, can I turn the ChuckWagon into a monster truck with a lift kit or something?? haha... j/k... kinda
You unbolt the strut assemblies, spring + strut. Unless you replace an entire assembly you need to use a spring compressor (be careful) or take it to a shop to switch the struts/spring mounts out.

Most people seem to recommend getting OEM or assembled rallitek for second gen. Keep in mind many assemblies will "fit" an h6 but are sprung for an H4 so your front will sit a little lower.
 
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