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2013 Outback 3.6R Limited
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

I purchased a new 2013 Outback 3.6R Limited 3/2/2013, and had a couple of questions. Bare in mind this is my first Subaru and so far I am loving it, just not used to how some of the Subaru stuff works.

Anyone else with the 2013 3.6R think the high idle at cold temperatures is a little extreme? Mine is somewhere around 2100 RPM. Doesn't stay there long, but it still seems a little high. More curious if others are high like mine.

Second, I got about 2500 miles on it, I drive quite a bit. And decided to change my oil early, I know it wasn't required until 3000, but it worked out better for that weekend than the up coming ones. Anyway, switched it to synthetic, had 7 quarts, and put in 6.5 qts and it was low, added the last .5 and oil level got just to the middle of the two dots. Not really concerned as I know there is 7 qts in it, just wondering if anyone else has run into this. No oil light are on, and everything sounds good as well. I didn't want to add any more, thought the dip stick might be a little off.

Like I said just kind of curious.
Thanks,
Drew
 

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2011 Outback 3.6 Premium
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723 Posts
Yeah, the idle is a bit high on the 3.6 when cold. I think this is done to reduce emissions and speed warmup.

An oil & filter change with seven quarts of oil on my 3.6 will bring the oil level up to the full mark. That's after the car has been turned off for a few hours.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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on my 06 wrx, which is dbw, I can 'pop' the gas pedal if I think the idle after starting is too high and it will drop down somewhat.
 

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2013 Outback 3.6R Limited
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Discussion Starter #4
I will try to remember to check the oil in a few hours, I just got home, so it will need time to drain back down if that is the case. I know I checked it several time when I changed it, but I am not certain how long I waited after I shut it off. I did a lot of stuff that day, Oil change, Put on reese trailer hitch, washed it and then polished and waxed the hood, will get to the rest later.

As for 'pop'ing the gas pedal, not sure that will do much on the newer cars. I thought that used to work on some of the older cars that I had in the past, but they weren't electronically controlled. I will try it though, just to see what happens.
 

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2013 Outback 3.6R Limited
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Discussion Starter #6
Checked oil after it sat for a while and it was at the top dot, everything fine there. I guess I am used to my old '97 Ford Taurus. I could drain it, change the filter and then refill it, start it and 5 minutes later it would be at the full line on the dip stick. I will make a note that it needs to sit longer next time.

My Taurus used to idle considerably lower (1600 rpm to 1800 rpm) at high idle, that was my only concern. Sounds like it is normal then.

Thanks for all the input, this forum has been a great source of information. Found lots of good info on putting my hitch on, I did the bumper removal method and it went flawlessly. Got the hitch and wiring harness for $209 on amazon. Next I will probably do the 19mm RSB, seems to drift a lot in the wind.
 

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2013 Outback 3.6R Limited
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186 Posts
The high idle is normal.

Popping the throttle on the brand-new engines just revs them more... which is not good for wear with stone-cold motor oil.

If you want the idle to come down, put it in gear for a moment then put it back in park. For whatever reason, the computer is programmed to cut the high idle once the car has been put in gear.

I will be doing the same with this car that I did with the 2.5i I had before... let it do its idle thing per the ECU programming, and keep good synthetic oil in it. Fresh synthetic oil and new filter every 5k. Synthetics have better cold flow properties, so I figure that will help protect the bearing surfaces while the engine is warming up.

This is just my method. Standard disclaimer, YMMV, etc.
 

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2013 Outback 3.6R Limited
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Oh yeah... +1 for the RSB upgrade. I did it on the 2011 2.5i to take it from borderline unsafe to just barely tolerable. Still massively underdamped, but body roll was cut significantly.

Honestly, my 2013 3.6R seems quite competent in the twisty bits, so the RSB is lower on my priority list with this car. The 2013's have bigger anti-roll bars from the factory than the 2010-2012 cars. It's still no Audi, but at least I feel safe and the car feels competent coming down the winding mountain highway on my way to work. It feels like the weakest link(s) on the car right now are the squishy, soft-sidewalled Continentals. I'll be looking for something more sporting when these wear out. After that, it might need the RSB upgrade.
 
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