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2003 ll bean 160k
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, we have a 2003 ll bean that stinks of gas in the cabin. I tore into it today and found the problem. The fuel injector on the passanger side closest to the radiator is leaking. It is leaking at the point where the tube connecting all three injectors meets the green plastic. There is a circular rubber (gasket?) that spins around right where the metal and plastic come together. No problems running or anything. I'm thinking the injector is fine and I need an o ring or something at that connection. Anyone have any experience with this?
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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The green plastic is the injector.

Its not hard to replace. You may want to get a set of seals from Subaru and do all of them. Upper, lower and base seals. 18 total for all 6 injectors.

Once the fuel cap is removed, take out the fuel pump relay and start the car until it stalls.

Once done, disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

I will assume you have the injector cover off since you can see the top of the injector, so next is to unplug the injectors and remove the fuel hose from the injector rail. (the metal "tube" that connects the 3 injectors in the line) The hoses will be extremely tight fit on the rail.

Once the hose is off, remove the 2 12mm screws that attach the rail to the head. You can then pull up on the rail and the rail will seperate from the injectors or the injectors will come up with the rail. Doesn't really matter either way.

The top and bottom of each injector have "o-ring" seals. There is also a larger seal that seals the vacuum port of the head and the base of the injector.

Once you have the o-rings swapped, coat them lightly with motor oil or silicone. You could even spray them with WD-40. Its only to help them slide in the rail and head.

When you have all 3 injectors in place and the rail seated on top of them, install the screws on the base and tighten them down fairly snug. The base leg of the rail will rest against the head. The main thing with tightening them is to not overtighten as you risk stripping the threads in the head. Then plug in the injectors.

Reinstall the relay and connect the battery. Turn the key on then off 2-3 times to prime the fuel system and check for leaks. If you don't see any, go ahead and start the engine and recheck for leaks. No leaks means good job and you can install the covers.

Good luck. :)
 

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2003 ll bean 160k
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Discussion Starter #3
ok thanks. Hopefully I can find the parts at napa? I'm doubtful that I can find a dealer on sunday with the parts. My wife is hoping to drive the car in our upcoming snowstorm. She hates our other car now. Is there an easy trick to use that helps while disconnecting the electrical clips? I would hate to break one. Do you think it is necessary to use a torque wrench on the bolts holding the fuel rail? I have one. Also, is the fuel pump relay in the fuse box? I will post pics, maybe post it up in the do it your self section. Hopefully I can tackle it tomorrow. thanks again
 

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2003 ll bean 160k
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
wow thought about just getting new injectors from napa. 130$ a piece. definetely waiting to get the seals. What is the advisability of using a putty of some kind for a few days to stop the leak untill I can find seals? I'm thinking I could use something externally that might work in a pinch and then I could clean it up and do it right next weekend. bad idea?
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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ok thanks. Hopefully I can find the parts at napa? I'm doubtful that I can find a dealer on sunday with the parts. My wife is hoping to drive the car in our upcoming snowstorm. She hates our other car now. Is there an easy trick to use that helps while disconnecting the electrical clips? I would hate to break one. Do you think it is necessary to use a torque wrench on the bolts holding the fuel rail? I have one. Also, is the fuel pump relay in the fuse box? I will post pics, maybe post it up in the do it your self section. Hopefully I can tackle it tomorrow. thanks again
Napa may have identical seals, but not the larger ones (about 1') at the base of the injector that seals the vacuum channel. So you need to make sure you don't misplace the larger ones.

Disconnecting the plugs sometimes requires an extra tug, but the plugs are fairly sturdy.

Fuel pump relay is next to the fuse box under the driver knee panel. See Pic. You could also pull fuse 13, which is the power circuit for the fuel pump and not worry about pulling the relay.
 

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2003 ll bean 160k
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Discussion Starter #6
Napa doesnt have a part number for the seals. AutoZone can special order them for four dollars each injector (3 pieces per injector) so maybe the large vaccum port seal is included? Am I going to get a higher quality seal from subaru or will these cheap ones work just as well? Wish I didnt have ethanol in my fuel:(
 

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2003 ll bean 160k
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Discussion Starter #7
Also tried tugging a little on the connectors. Do I need to press some where with a screw driver or squeeze some where with pliers or is it just a tug? thanks. Going to finish this as soon as I get the parts looks like wednesday.
 

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01 LL Bean
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wow thought about just getting new injectors from napa. 130$ a piece.
Be glad you are not buying for a Cummins diesel. They run a fuel rail pressure around 10x the pressure of our Subaru injectors and cost almost the same order or magnitude more.
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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As expected, but it was worth a phone call, you will need to get the seals from Subaru. Auto Zone will not have the right seals. Trust me. They won't fit. This is another part that the aftermarket will not have a proper fit for.

There is not a quick fix. If it is the seal leaking, and most likely is, it can only be repaired with the proper seal.

There is a push lock tab in the center of the plug. You could push it with one hand and gently pry with a flat head on the base of the plug. Be careful you don't pull a wire loose from the plug.

Yes, the high ethanol fuel, E85, will deteriorate the seals faster. I used a different seal for my upgrade and so far they are holding up.

Denso fuel injectors are available online for less than $100 each. I paid $92 each for the 410cc for my engine from SparkPlug.com .
 

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2003 ll bean 160k
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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks so much for all the help. I already ordered seals from autozone and will just get my money back. I will order seals from subaru tomorrow. Your advice will save me three days of waiting for the wrong part. We are running ultra 93 but I know the previous owner didnt. We are in the northeast so we have alot of crap in our fuel regardless of the octane rating. I would spring for new injectors, but they are so easy to get at that I will wait till they fail to replace them. I'm only somewhat mechanically inclined and was able to get down to the injectors in about fifteen minutes. On the plus side we didnt get much snow so my wife can drive our spare car for a few days. We've been driving around with gas smell for a week or more, but I cant bring myself to do it now that I see the amount of fuel that is leaking. Anyway thanks for the advice, I plan to post pics when I tear everything down again.
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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Denso injectors last a long time, so I doubt you will need to replace them. I haven't changed any on a Subaru, with exception of my car where I needed more fuel flow to match the air charge.

Use Sea Foam in the fuel tank. Either every fill up add 3 oz., or a full bottle 4 times a year to keep the system clean and the injectors spraying proper.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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are they special seals? simple orings can be matched up at parts stores. i've done it countless times for Subaru air suspension systems which have dozens of orings. they won't be the same size, usually standard instead of metric, but they work fine.

if it's an easy job it might be worth a temporary fit until the new ones come in.

ironically my 2002 OBW H6 VDC just started smelling of fuel but I thought it was the chain saw i had in the back last week....guess I better check.

if it's enough fuel to smell in the cabin then i should easily see the leak under the hood right?
 

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01 Outback LL Bean
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I have dissembled my fuel injector system many times on the H6. The only seal that is going to leak is the top seal which is the one that is under pressure. The bottom seal is just to keep air from being sucked into the intake.

I have had issues with reassembly multiple times where it would leak when I was done. The trick is to use a lubricant and from my research and experience the best option is liquid dish soap. If you are not comfortable with that recommendation then use clean motor oil.

Also be careful when installing as there is a groove on the fuel rail which matches with a groove on the injector to keep them from being able to rotate once installed. I prefer to install the three injectors into the fuel rail then gently install the fuel rail/injector assembly into the intake.

You could replace top seal with something from a hardware store if you were in a pinch but I would not recommend it for a long term solution. It is a good amount of work to get to the injectors so I would recommend doing the job once. If it were me I would stop driving the car immediately, go to the dealer and get the top seals.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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is there a digram or pics of the parts orientation ?

I have never in my life removed or installed an injector and I can't really picture all these seals and stuff.
 

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DIY-Turbo 2.2l OBS 12.89s 1/4mile @ 106.17MPH
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I used "HELP" o-rings that were closest in size to the OEM o-ring on the green injectors (which are also found on MAP EJ222's & '00 Legacy ej251's).
These comes in a package with assorted sizes choose the size closest to the little o-ring sealing the injector to the rail on the top of the green injectors - I may have put 2 of the brown HELP o-rings on each injector - the BIG bottom seal is imposible to find so don't loose those.

I can't remember if there is also a bottom o-ring but if they is a small lower o-ring those are the same size as the "injector to rail" top o-ring - again I'll double up just in case as the "HELP" o-rings seem a tiny bit smaller than OEM but double seals have always held for me (even with fuel pressure over 2x normal) - ? if the OEMs swell after time.

If I were the OP I'd get a package of HELP o-rings & change ONLY THE LEAKING SIDE OF THE PROBLEM INJECTOR - This will test & confirm the information above.
Use engine oil on the o-ring seating area for the new seal & THE MANIFOLD SIDE OF ALL 3 injectors removed when the rail is pulled - as long as you do not pinch the o-ring they will be fine - thats where the oil comes in.

Test for a while & keep a package of o-rings handy...
 

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2003 ll bean 160k
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Discussion Starter #17
Found a dealer near us who will order the seals. 80 dollars total to do three injectors. 80 dollars for 9 small pieces of rubber. I'm going to get the parts from auto zone to compare. subaru doesnt sell the seals as a kit, they sell them individually . I will install the subaru parts, and i will let you know if any of the autozone parts are the same as they are much cheaper. I'm pretty sure cardoc is right and subaru parts are necessary, but if even one of the auto zone parts is the same, it would be worth it for someone else to know.
 

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2003 ll bean 160k
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Discussion Starter #18
wrote that last post before reading all the new posts. If my understanding is correct, there are three seals per injector. two small ones and the big one on the bottom. I think I'm getting all three from the dealership. I was also told that injectors (if purchased from dealership) would not include seals. Do aftermarket injectors come with seals? just curious. When I had the car apart, it looked like the two injectors that didnt have an obvious leak were a bit wet. I'm guessing it wont be long before I need to do the other side. My car has 160k and to my knowledge has been in the northeast most if not all of its life.
Wondering about this double seal aftermarket oring business. I'll probably just stick with the subaru parts, but I'll pick up a package of the help orings for fun and let you know what I find. As for dishsoap, do I immerse the seals in dishsoap then install? same question for motor oil. Also, will all the seals come out with the injector when I pull them out? Wouldnt want to leave anything in there I shouldnt. Cant wait for saturday so I can tackle this. I'll take lots of pics and post up anything I find.
 

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01 Outback LL Bean
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According to the diagram I posted the injector sub assembly includes all of the seals and is part number 16611AA340.

I think the dealer is wrong on this matter.

That being said, if you want clean,like new injectors, these guys will professionally clean them and return them with new seals. They do very good work. It is $21 per injector.

WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services

They return all the injectors with new orings and the old orings. They also bench flow before and after and show you the results. I had this done a few years ago.
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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Here's a pic of the injector out of the car. The green is the OE H6 Denso. The blue is the Denso for a WRX.

There is the upper pressure seal, upper dust seal, lower cap seal, lower nozzle seal and the larger vacuum seal.

The black piece by the green one is the nozzle cover that alters the fuel spray. The pic doesn't show it but the lower seal goes on the narrow end of the black cap.

The second pic is an assembled rail, slightly modified, but you can see the seal configuration.
 

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