Very cool album...looks like that project took some time!
H6 Plug Change: Not quite as bad as it is hyped to be.
I almost got scared off from reading others' horror stories on the H6 plugs, but I tried it anyway. Tackled this yesterday in just under three hours. I don't think anyone can ever have enough tips on this, so here's mine. A few are probably repetitive:
- Do it from the bottom. I just can't see doing it from the top. My guards are already gone from underneath, so the plugs are right there. No moving the washer fluid reservoir or air intake, killing your back leaning over an engine for hours, or nonsense like that.
- Start with the plug closest to the steering wheel. This is definitely the hardest. If you can tackle this one, you can definitely handle the rest. The passenger's side backmost plug was easier, but that might only be because I had a method down from the other one...I'm not sure if there's actually more clearance.
- You absolutely need a 3" extension or smaller. Bigger ones will do you absolutely no good. I got by with a single 3", a deep socket, socket for the bolt on the coil packs (12 mm?--Can't remember for sure) a swivel adapter, and a standard 3/8 drive ratchet. A smaller extension would have saved me time.
- A swivel-adapter (U-Joint) is somewhat helpful for the back two plugs, but it's not absolutely necessary. I realized it helped a little bit on the passenger side backmost plug, but I didn't use it and still got the driver's side out.
- Definitely use some sort of anti-seize on the threads. I don't know when mine were last done, but some of them didn't turn too easily for quite a few turns and there was evidence of neverseize on those threads. I can't imagine what they might have been like without it.
- As mentioned in other threads, fuel line could be helpful to loosen the plugs but don't rely on it. I couldn't have turned some of mine with it until they were already most of the way out.
- Make sure your ratchet is easy to free from the extension/socket. The reason is you'll need to free it from the extension when the plug is about halfway out, otherwise you won't be able to get the extension out.
- Cold engine is a must. Don't even try it on a hot or warm engine.
- Pliers can be helpful to free the coil pack from gripping the plug if used gently (there's not much room to pull with your hand), but be VERY careful of the plug and wires on the coil pack--it would be bad to destroy them.
- Do it on a warm day or in a heated garage. Numb hands will make the job nearly impossible.
- Be careful of the o2 sensor wires. I could definitely see potential for destroying them with a swing of the ratchet.
All in all, it's really not THAT bad. A lot worse than a V6 for sure, but if you're used to doing your own work give it a try before paying $250+ to have it done. Set aside a few hours (I'd guess just about anyone could have it done in under 4...I did it in just under 3 and am not even all that mechanical). Of course, any number of things could add considerably to that time.
Good luck! Also post any other tips you've got here!
- Do it from the bottom. I just can't see doing it from the top. My guards are already gone from underneath, so the plugs are right there. No moving the washer fluid reservoir or air intake, killing your back leaning over an engine for hours, or nonsense like that.
- Start with the plug closest to the steering wheel. This is definitely the hardest. If you can tackle this one, you can definitely handle the rest. The passenger's side backmost plug was easier, but that might only be because I had a method down from the other one...I'm not sure if there's actually more clearance.
- You absolutely need a 3" extension or smaller. Bigger ones will do you absolutely no good. I got by with a single 3", a deep socket, socket for the bolt on the coil packs (12 mm?--Can't remember for sure) a swivel adapter, and a standard 3/8 drive ratchet. A smaller extension would have saved me time.
- A swivel-adapter (U-Joint) is somewhat helpful for the back two plugs, but it's not absolutely necessary. I realized it helped a little bit on the passenger side backmost plug, but I didn't use it and still got the driver's side out.
- Definitely use some sort of anti-seize on the threads. I don't know when mine were last done, but some of them didn't turn too easily for quite a few turns and there was evidence of neverseize on those threads. I can't imagine what they might have been like without it.
- As mentioned in other threads, fuel line could be helpful to loosen the plugs but don't rely on it. I couldn't have turned some of mine with it until they were already most of the way out.
- Make sure your ratchet is easy to free from the extension/socket. The reason is you'll need to free it from the extension when the plug is about halfway out, otherwise you won't be able to get the extension out.
- Cold engine is a must. Don't even try it on a hot or warm engine.
- Pliers can be helpful to free the coil pack from gripping the plug if used gently (there's not much room to pull with your hand), but be VERY careful of the plug and wires on the coil pack--it would be bad to destroy them.
- Do it on a warm day or in a heated garage. Numb hands will make the job nearly impossible.
- Be careful of the o2 sensor wires. I could definitely see potential for destroying them with a swing of the ratchet.
All in all, it's really not THAT bad. A lot worse than a V6 for sure, but if you're used to doing your own work give it a try before paying $250+ to have it done. Set aside a few hours (I'd guess just about anyone could have it done in under 4...I did it in just under 3 and am not even all that mechanical). Of course, any number of things could add considerably to that time.
Good luck! Also post any other tips you've got here!
21 - 40 of 41 Posts
Two weeks start to finish.
The job can be done with lots of patience. Small, nimble hands are a huge plus. I was able to replace my plugs this past weekend. I ended up taking the airbox and battery out to do the job.
I also found it easier on the knuckles if you remove the cover/holder for the coil wires. Two small nuts hold it in place, gives you a little more space to work.
Also, instead of using a u-joint socket, I just connected/disconnected my short extension bar to the spark plug socket within the spark plug cavity. I found I could put the spark plug socket on the plug (when I was removing the plug) or start threading the plug with my bare hands and just the plug socket before putting the extension bar on.
It took me just over two hours to do my H6, sure beats paying my dealer $350 to do it. (my knuckles might disagree though)
I also found it easier on the knuckles if you remove the cover/holder for the coil wires. Two small nuts hold it in place, gives you a little more space to work.
Also, instead of using a u-joint socket, I just connected/disconnected my short extension bar to the spark plug socket within the spark plug cavity. I found I could put the spark plug socket on the plug (when I was removing the plug) or start threading the plug with my bare hands and just the plug socket before putting the extension bar on.
It took me just over two hours to do my H6, sure beats paying my dealer $350 to do it. (my knuckles might disagree though)
I replaced my plugs from the bottom today and it wasn't too bad. The drivers side closest to the fire wall was the worst. Found that I had to unplug the coil pack on the drivers side closest to the fire wall to get the coil pack all the way out.
I would never try them from the top as from the bottom they are right there like JP said.
The engine does run a little smoother now.
I would never try them from the top as from the bottom they are right there like JP said.
The engine does run a little smoother now.
...and sometimes just unplugging the coil pack is a challenge!I replaced my plugs from the bottom today and it wasn't too bad. The drivers side closest to the fire wall was the worst. Found that I had to unplug the coil pack on the drivers side closest to the fire wall to get the coil pack all the way out.
I would never try them from the top as from the bottom they are right there like JP said.
The engine does run a little smoother now.
I think trying to get to the plugs from the top is an act of masochism. When I look at it from either side, there's no question in my mind that it's infinitely easier to do it from under the car. Glad someone agrees!
And we're most definitely on the same page as far as the driver's side firewall plug goes too. I think somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 of that job was spent on the one plug for me. The others were relatively quick.
I didn't notice any power/running/MPG difference on mine unfortunately, but that tells me that the previous owner must have changed them at one point (or that they're really great plugs), and it gives me the piece of mind that they're taken care of for a while.
I agree anyone doing the plugs from the top is crazy but more power to them. After spending hours doing the plugs I do feel a bond with the car 
I actually used a long thin flat head screw driver to pop the coil pack off and I used it to release the ratchet from the extension. Sometimes it is hard to get a finger up there to hit the release button so I used the flat head to pop the ratchet off.
The plugs just looked worn so I am sure I just imagined it running a little better.
I actually used a long thin flat head screw driver to pop the coil pack off and I used it to release the ratchet from the extension. Sometimes it is hard to get a finger up there to hit the release button so I used the flat head to pop the ratchet off.
The plugs just looked worn so I am sure I just imagined it running a little better.
I disagree with this advice in the first post. Anti-seize on plug threads is a bad idea. Use new motor oil.- Definitely use some sort of anti-seize on the threads.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf
If you torque to a torque setting that warning may be appropriate but I would not want my car worked on by someone who used a torque wrench on the plugs. (It is a good warning to keep in mind, though.)
Washer-types are not supposed to be installed by torque.
3/4 of the plugs on my wifes '05 forester came out easy. The last one was tight backing out for a few turns. You can bet your bottom dollar I antiseized those critters.
And, motor oil would do exactly what they warn- allow you to torque it too much. Also, according to that, if you remove and reinstall a plug, you would want to use antiseize as the magic coating would have been removed by removing the plug.
Dave
Washer-types are not supposed to be installed by torque.
3/4 of the plugs on my wifes '05 forester came out easy. The last one was tight backing out for a few turns. You can bet your bottom dollar I antiseized those critters.
And, motor oil would do exactly what they warn- allow you to torque it too much. Also, according to that, if you remove and reinstall a plug, you would want to use antiseize as the magic coating would have been removed by removing the plug.
Dave
Did you have to rotate the boots to remove them?
Are you referring to the boot that contacts the plug from the coil pack? If so, I just pulled them off without rotating, though I'm sure it's possible that a little rotation could help.Did you have to rotate the boots to remove them?
Indeed, but I had watched some youtube videos of people doing the plugs on the H4. Totally different setup!Are you referring to the boot that contacts the plug from the coil pack? If so, I just pulled them off without rotating, though I'm sure it's possible that a little rotation could help.
They sure are! The H6 is coil-on-plug while the H4 is not. Plus, it is much easier to access the plugs on the H4. I can get to both sides very easily from the top as long as I move some of the air intake stuff and the washer fluid reservoir out of the way. Definitely not the case with the H6!Indeed, but I had watched some youtube videos of people doing the plugs on the H4. Totally different setup!
I worked on mine for 2 hours yesterday and gave up. I got the two front DS done. When I realized I was in over my head with the DS rear, it was too late. I couldn't get the connector back on the coil. Towed to dealer. $400 to finish the job.
I worked above and below. I have low profile ratchets, multiple extensions, multiple universals for the ratchet, everything I could throw at it. I almost lost my mind until I remembered I have AAA and towing is free. Sigh.
On the plus side, the rest of the 120k service was CAKE. The drive belt took 5 min!
I worked above and below. I have low profile ratchets, multiple extensions, multiple universals for the ratchet, everything I could throw at it. I almost lost my mind until I remembered I have AAA and towing is free. Sigh.
On the plus side, the rest of the 120k service was CAKE. The drive belt took 5 min!
sorry you didn't get through it, I easily spent 1/3 of my the total time on the left rear one the first time, for some reason, I just couldn't get the puzzle piece-coil rotated correctly to go back on - had to jack the engine up a little. But the second time it just went like magic and was no harder than the others.
Am I right in guessing that the 06-07 Tribeca's used the the same H6 engine? If so, this video may help someone looking to do their spark plugs since it would be same engine and IIRC based on the legacy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfN2XVugx24&list=LLSmaJvlhyRkDLhMQKCIu2FA&feature=mh_lolz
I found it heaps easier to undo the pitch stopper, Y-pipe, and motor mounts and just jack the engine up, one side at a time.
No worse than doing 4 cyl plugs after you do that. I generally do valve cover gaskets at the same time and it's pretty much a necessity in order to be able to remove the valve covers.
No worse than doing 4 cyl plugs after you do that. I generally do valve cover gaskets at the same time and it's pretty much a necessity in order to be able to remove the valve covers.
Did mine a few months ago on the 6 pot, there's no room and it will take you around 3 hours to change all 6 working from underneath, haven't a clue how you do them from above.
Get the car up both sides and blocked up, lay an old carpet down underneath so you are warm and comfortable.
You need a good selection of short extensions, some of mine have hexagons built into them so you can use a ratchet spanner on the extension as well as a normal socket ratchet...i found that the rear two plugs would have been almost impossible without being able to do this, there is so little room that once you have half the thread removed, you have to change extensions anyway or you'll end up being unable to remove the extension as the plug winds out, yet the shorter extension won;t reach the plug when fully in.
The NGK's that came out have been replaced with identical platinums, the old looked hardly worn but the engine started better and ran smoother once fitted.
If i can do it, and i'm an old un so any of you younger blokes can do this job, just allow a full day so you don't get panic due to time constraints if things don't don't go smoothly.
Get the car up both sides and blocked up, lay an old carpet down underneath so you are warm and comfortable.
You need a good selection of short extensions, some of mine have hexagons built into them so you can use a ratchet spanner on the extension as well as a normal socket ratchet...i found that the rear two plugs would have been almost impossible without being able to do this, there is so little room that once you have half the thread removed, you have to change extensions anyway or you'll end up being unable to remove the extension as the plug winds out, yet the shorter extension won;t reach the plug when fully in.
The NGK's that came out have been replaced with identical platinums, the old looked hardly worn but the engine started better and ran smoother once fitted.
If i can do it, and i'm an old un so any of you younger blokes can do this job, just allow a full day so you don't get panic due to time constraints if things don't don't go smoothly.
Changed the plugs on my V6 Tacoma yesterday. Really puts into perspective how much more difficult the H6 is. Tacoma took me ~45 minutes, maybe less. My record on the Subaru was about 2 hours. First time was about 3.
When did the Gen3 die??? I missed it, what happened?Changed the plugs on my V6 Tacoma yesterday. Really puts into perspective how much more difficult the H6 is. Tacoma took me ~45 minutes, maybe less. My record on the Subaru was about 2 hours. First time was about 3.
This, unfortunately: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/61-general-discussions/156866-totaled.htmlWhen did the Gen3 die??? I missed it, what happened?
21 - 40 of 41 Posts
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