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'01 OBW 3.0 VDC 184,000 Miles '19 OB 2.5 Base <2,000 Miles - Formerly '14 Impreza Sedan 2.0 5spd 66,000 Miles at trade-in
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330 Posts
I think the number is supposed to be 6203-2RSJ, not 6023... . At least that's what I've been getting from NAPA.
It is and I checked the bearing in the car they are correct, I just had an acute attack of dyslexia or stupidity. Your choice haha
 

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2002 Ouback Legacy LL Bean 3.0
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1 Posts
Thanks, good info. I assume just line up the 3 holes of the belt tensioner and reattach new unit. I assume when replacing there is no tension to worry about as part I expect not under tension in sitting state?
 

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'03 Outback H6-3.0 Black Granite Pearl, base model with cold weather package and cloth seats.
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1,034 Posts
The tensioner has spring pre-load on it, even in the resting state. It is mechanically limited in the pulley travel.
Once installed, you need to overcome the spring tensionand move the pulley far enough for the belt to be slipped into place. I slide the belt over the idler pulley last when installing the belt.

The hardest part for me was seeing where the bolts go, getting the socket on an extension in there, and then getting the bolts torqued into place.
 

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2012 Outback 3.6R
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500 Posts
The tensioner has three marks that indicate if the belt is the correct length or has stretched to the point the belt should be replaced.
 

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'01 OBW 3.0 VDC 184,000 Miles '19 OB 2.5 Base <2,000 Miles - Formerly '14 Impreza Sedan 2.0 5spd 66,000 Miles at trade-in
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330 Posts
Job Complete! Super easy. Total time start to finish was 23 minutes. No special knowledge (beyond the information contained herein this thread) most helpful thing was having the right tools on hand. Can't say that any of the old bearings were rough or noisy- didn't use a steth or stick to listen close, but now I can rest at peace knowing the age and mileage of the new parts. New belt moved the wear indicator back to the first notch from the second. !!didnt lose the captive but on the back of the tensioner!!
 

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2002 Subaru Outback LLBean Wagon
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26 Posts
Just replaced mine easy job, parts were kind of expensive for what they were. it cost me around 200$ for the 2 bearings, tensioner and belt.
 

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You can get both pulleys off and on with out removing anything. If I remember correctly they are both 14mm bolt. A breaker bar, ratchet, and a 14mm socket should be all you need. It does help to take the belt guard off, but that is super easy. I think it is held on with 10 mils.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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17,131 Posts
bought 2 of these; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JCS2BS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and a belt; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMIG2K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the pulleys are metal, seem heavy duty but also seem slightly larger than OEM, I didn't try a caliper on them but, my guess is, 1 or 2 mm larger diameter. They are blackish in color (not silver like pictured at Amazon) and have no rear lip like the oem. The belt seems to be tracking OK though, it rides at the rear edge of the idler pulley. I will monitor the rear edge of the belt for unusual wear.

The belt seemed very slightly longer than the NAPA I removed. The old one had a 'moderate' amount of cracking and no gaps/missing rubber.

The oem pulleys had past-replacement bearings, still seemed smooth spinning on my fingers so, dunno if it was one of them or the belt making noise?

Although the box says Made in USA, the bearings are C&U , a Chinese manufacturer but supposedly among the better ones. If/when these pulley start to fail, I may go back and try to swap bearings in the oem pulleys.

I will try to post a picture or 2.



 

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Both mine went out within a month of each other on the 04 beaner. One at wifes work, one at kids school. Had to call around to find them in a hurry and change them where the car sat. Wish i kept the old ones now and threw new bearings in them as spares after reading this. Came on the heels of numerous other failures in this car. Wasnt a hard job at all, just annoying. At 180k I feel like this car is in hospice. Just fixed the AC clutch gap last week and this week the rear doors dont want to lock with the fob. the last 2 years have been an unending stream of repairs. alternator(s), power steering pump and rack, fricken drive shaft! who ever heard of a drive shaft needing replacement? Shame because it really is still nice looking and drives great. Just waiting on the next breakdown.
 

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2000 Legacy Lancaster 6
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9 Posts
So 6203 is the size of the bearing, and 2RS does mean 2 rubber shields. Subaru have used a pretty standard sized bearing just not a high quality form of it.

I changed mine out for some 2RS's but immediately after had the thought of going for some 6203-ZZ bearings (ZZ being steel shielded) so that they would last longer. Same size, same load bearing qualities, much better protected inner mechanisms though

469065


I just had a quick look on amazon and it was $9.95 for a 6203-ZZ and $14.95 for a 6203-2RS from VXB so could even be cheaper

ZZ'S: https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-17x40x12-Shielded-Bearings-VXB/dp/B002BBOFG6

2RS's: https://www.amazon.com/6203-2RS-12-Bearing-0-750-40x12-Sealed/dp/B002SDA4VW
 

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Outbacks, SVXs, XT6, 4Runner, Celica, Brat, E150s
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479 Posts
I work in parts at a Bobcat/Kubota dealer. We noticed that Kubota likes to use common bearing numbers in their part number. So I made a 6203 part number, and sure enough, we had it in stock.

08141-06203, Kubota MSRP $6.24 (although it's more common in equipment to mark up beyond that, we sell them $7.55). Printed right on it says 6203RS KOYO Japan. Pretty good price for a quality bearing. So if you've got a Kubota dealership nearby, have them get it on their next stock order (free shipping).
 

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2000, Lancaster H6.
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8 Posts
So 6203 is the size of the bearing, and 2RS does mean 2 rubber shields. Subaru have used a pretty standard sized bearing just not a high quality form of it.

I changed mine out for some 2RS's but immediately after had the thought of going for some 6203-ZZ bearings (ZZ being steel shielded) so that they would last longer. Same size, same load bearing qualities, much better protected inner mechanisms though

View attachment 469065

I just had a quick look on amazon and it was $9.95 for a 6203-ZZ and $14.95 for a 6203-2RS from VXB so could even be cheaper

ZZ'S: https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-17x40x12-Shielded-Bearings-VXB/dp/B002BBOFG6

2RS's: https://www.amazon.com/6203-2RS-12-Bearing-0-750-40x12-Sealed/dp/B002SDA4VW
 

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2000, Lancaster H6.
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8 Posts
Have you replaced your old Subaru? Got the same model, doing some maintenance on mine also. Got a rough idle on mine also.
 
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