Well, once again, these terrific forums have kept me away from the stealership.
Everything posted here about the bearing replacement for tensioner and idler pulleys was accurate...The pulleys are identical, they take the same bearing (#6203-2rs from Napa from a previous post) I pressed them out and in with a bolt and a pile of washers, you don't have to take the tensioner off, and the job was quite easy. I have 100K miles on my 2001 OBW H6. Having to take off the belt for power steering pump replacement, I decided to check the bearings. The bearings had very little wobble, but when I rotated them I could tell they were completely dry and doomed for failure soon.
I have a suggestion for those who choose to replace the tensioner pulley bearing without removing the tensioner. The bolt holding the pulley on the tensioner bracket does not thread into the bracket like I assumed it did, it has a nut on the back of the bracket. When you feel behind the bracket, the nut is easy to overlook because it is recessed into a hexaginal depression in the back of the bracket which keeps it from turning when you re-install the pulley bolt. When you prepare to take out the pulley bolt, stuff a rag behind the bracket or put your hand back there to catch the nut if it falls out. If it does fall out (I now speak from experience) you will probably not hear it hit the ground. There is a small gap between the front of the engine block and some other bracketry just below and behind the tensioner pulley location....yep, that's where that bugger is goin' to go. I managed to fish it out with a wire and magnet, soooo.....word to the wise..
Thanks to the previous posters who documented and described this repair.