[T4RBoarder]

Standing on the driver side with a long board, I put it on the head of the bolt and pushed toward the passenger side. Hard. Very hard. Don't slip.

Just be sure you know exactly how it goes back on. I spent literally 3 hours trying to figure the belt routing out.

So i do go counter-clockwise? I thought that just loosened the pulley on the tensioner?

 

[chevrofreak]

So i do go counter-clockwise? I thought that just loosened the pulley on the tensioner?

You just push straight into the side of the bolt head to compress the spring on the tensioner enough that you can slip the belt off. They really do use an exceptionally strong spring for the tensioner, so be careful.

I tried standing in front of the car and using the board as a lever against the bolt head, but all I managed to do is splinter the edge of the board.

Yes, the perspective on this is off.

Imagine the white rectangle is a board. Place it on the head of the bolt that holds the pulley on, and push on it to take tension off of the belt.

 

[CNY_Dave]

I'm at 120,000 miles now (30K miles in a year), gee, I feel like I should do them.

Like maybe this weekend.

Might have heard a bit of noise...

Maybe I'll try taping the belt to the other pulleys so I don't have to fuss with getting them back on.

Dave

 

[idosubaru]

Yeah I'd do it dave. With the frequency they happen (someone at USMB just had it let loose on them) and how bad mine were when I did them for preventative maintenance it's time well spent. It was REALLY easy too by the way. Given your experience I think you'll knock it out in no time. Actually other than a couple pilot bearings I dont' think I had ever done a bearing before so I was a little hesitant but it ended up being a piece of cake. Bearing came out really easy.

 

[CNY_Dave]

Yeah I'd do it dave. With the frequency they happen (someone at USMB just had it let loose on them) and how bad mine were when I did them for preventative maintenance it's time well spent. It was REALLY easy too by the way. Given your experience I think you'll knock it out in no time. Actually other than a couple pilot bearings I dont' think I had ever done a bearing before so I was a little hesitant but it ended up being a piece of cake. Bearing came out really easy.

Nothing standing between me and new bearings but a big pile of lazy...

I was going to change my trans fluid this weekend, but this seems like a 'need'.


Dave

 

[idosubaru]

yeah right on. i'm either on fire getting lots done or don't feel like touching anything automotive. can't find that in-between.

 

[procyon]

The non-tensioner idler on my wife's '06 Outback 3.0L had just started making noise. 59k miles on the car. Pulled it off and took out the dust seals. The small amount of grease still in it was all dried up. Cleaned it w/ brake cleaner and repacked with grease and it spun pretty smoothly.

I've now replaced one idler with new ($43) so that I had a spare to press in a 6203-2RSJ bearing from NAPA which was only $10. I used a few washers and a hydraulic press at work. BTW, the bearing from NAPA is made by SKF.

I almost think replacing both idler bearings should be on the 60k maintenance schedule.

 

[CNY_Dave]

The non-tensioner idler on my wife's '06 Outback 3.0L had just started making noise. 59k miles on the car. Pulled it off and took out the dust seals. The small amount of grease still in it was all dried up. Cleaned it w/ brake cleaner and repacked with grease and is spun pretty smoothly.

I've now replaced one idler with new ($43) so that I had a spare to press in a 6203-2RSJ bearing from NAPA which was only $10. I used a few washers and a hydraulic press at work. BTW, the bearing from NAPA is made by SKF.

I almost think replacing both idler bearings should be on the 60k maintenance schedule.

60K for the stockers, anyway.

Surprised to hear they are still shortlived in the '06.

Dave

 

[driveby]

FYI, I pulled my pulleys last month and can confirm the bearing number. The rubber seals were marked NSK 6203DUL1.

Thanks :sayinghi: to the guy(s) who mentioned the nut behind the tensioner pulley. It would suck to drop that nut and not realize it.

Spare pulley (Subaru p/n 23770AA020) was ready for quick swap if one of the bearings was bad. Turns out I didn't need it. But I noticed that the replacement pulley is different from the original:

The new pulley has no flange, and it looks like it will mount slightly farther forward than the old one.

I think I'll reuse that old pulley if/when I have to replace a bearing. Another good reason to buy just the bearings...

:7:
-Jeff

 

[procyon]

The new idler that I purchased also looked like your new one (no flange). In fact, the original idlers on our '06 are the "new" stye. That flange has no relationship on mounting depth. The serpentine belt on our '06 ended up relatively centered on the idler.

 

[driveby]

The difference in mounting depth is due to the depth of the bearing sleeve.

Look closely at the second picture in my last post. The bearing sleeve in the "new" pulley extends farther to the back...so that pulley will mount farther forward.

That means less clearance in front, and a bigger gap in back...and no flange to stop the belt if it wanders toward the back.

I'll stick with the "old" design for this one.

-Jeff

 

[idosubaru]

Replaced both of mine a little over a year ago, see comment a couple pages back in this thread, based on how many failures I was seeing. No noise or symptoms but they were in bad shape once removed. One started making noise again today after 30,000 miles so I'm off to replace one again. My mechanics stethoscope confirmed it.

Lucky for me I'm leaving for a 2,000 mile road trip in 30 hours, hopefully I can find a bearing tomorrow somewhere.

thanks for all the part number information - that's what i got on here for tonight, suffered dial up just for that!

 

[idosubaru]

I pulled it off this morning and there's no play in the pulley bearing, perfectly smooth? I removed the tensioner too but nothing noticeable.

I'm %100 sure something was wrong, every few seconds it would vibrate horribly, I could even see the bolt moving.

So it must be the tensioner?

 

[CNY_Dave]

I pulled it off this morning and there's no play in the pulley bearing, perfectly smooth? I removed the tensioner too but nothing noticeable.

I'm %100 sure something was wrong, every few seconds it would vibrate horribly, I could even see the bolt moving.

So it must be the tensioner?

The tensioner arm should be able to rotate, but not deflect around its pivot by much.

It is normal to have the belt run smooth and then flap a bit and then smooth out again.


Dave

 

[dbs179]

Happened to me yesterday on my Wife's 2005 Outback Sedan. Power Steering went out, Battery Light came on and Brake Light came on. Got it home, popped the hood and the pulley on the Tensioner was laying in the bottom of the engine compartment.

I'm picking up a new Tensioner today. I didn't take the time to look yesterday, but will I have to remove anything to get the old Tensioner off and the new one on? It looks tight in there.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[blur911]

I pulled it off this morning and there's no play in the pulley bearing, perfectly smooth? I removed the tensioner too but nothing noticeable.

I'm %100 sure something was wrong, every few seconds it would vibrate horribly, I could even see the bolt moving.

So it must be the tensioner?

I had one go where the bearing felt fine, but the pulley was loose on the bearing OD, wobbled and threw the belt jamming the engine as I watched.
Be careful about re-using pulleys, at least put some bearing mount adhesive in there when pressing in the new bearing.

BTW, some trivia, the 2RS in the bearing nomenclature simply means 2 rubber seals.

 

[idosubaru]

What do the letters/numbers mean afterwards? Friend of mine has these bearings:
6203LU

Will they work? Pretty sure I bought these same ones from him before for this same job but i can't remember. I think i asked this question before too but couldn't find it.

 

[CNY_Dave]

The letters relate to seals, perhaps a speed rating and load rating.

I don't think it's a high-load high-speed job on the subie.

Dave

 

[CNY_Dave]

Now there is not an H6 section, this thread is even harder to find...


Dave

 

[CNY_Dave]

2 year bump- sticky?