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Head Unit upgrade

1105 Views 10 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  walker
I just got a 2018 HU from a liberty wreckage, installed on my 2015 premium (Non-HK Audio) then found following issues.

Firstly....sure I need a new climate control module....


For the HU itself.
USB ports do not fully functionally work, no carplay/android support.

Volume control knob does not work.

Steering wheel control does not work either.

Climate control doesnt work either

any advice
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Did it work in the doner vehicle before you extracted it?

You might need the steering wheel controls from the 2018 unit as well. Can't explain the volume knob not working - does it actually show the on screen adjustment when you turn it?

Also, was the headunit from an actual MY18 vehicle? It might have been an MY17 that was complianced or first registered in 2018. MY17 did not have CP/AA.

Anyway, in the meantime, see if you can get into diagnostics and see if that gives you any more information. Hold down the Home button and then press (not turn) the Tune knob twice for general diagnostics or six times for the dealership menu where you can do further diagnostics and see software versions etc .

As for the climate control module, is it a case that it's broken or just not compatible with your year model?
 

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You will need some more parts…

Steering wheel controls from a 2018
Steering wheel from a 2018
New HVAC control module
USB/AUX hub from a 2018
Different antenna with gps antenna depending on if the new unit has nav and you did or did not before.

Nice write up here:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You will need some more parts…

Steering wheel controls from a 2018
Steering wheel from a 2018
New HVAC control module
USB/AUX hub from a 2018
Different antenna with gps antenna depending on if the new unit has nav and you did or did not before.

Nice write up here:
Thank you for the response, will that also solve the volume problem on the radio itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You will need some more parts…

Steering wheel controls from a 2018
Steering wheel from a 2018
New HVAC control module
USB/AUX hub from a 2018
Different antenna with gps antenna depending on if the new unit has nav and you did or did not before.

Nice write up here:
thanks walker
I managed to change everything and everything works my only issue is the volume knob isnt working the volume does not change.. any advice on that?
 

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when you turn the volume knob, does the graphic show up that looks like it's trying to adjust the volume, or does the screen not change at all?

You can run a speaker test to see if audio is getting out at all - while holding the home button, press the tune knob twice and then release the home button. You should be in a diagnostic screen. The fourth tab over is the Audio Check screen. There is a button there you can press for Speaker Check. It will cycle through the speakers, playing white noise. You'll have to hit the home button there at the top left to exit. Maybe one of the other tabs might to it too.

Font Screenshot Parallel Number Rectangle



Now - is this replacement a unit that originally had the harmon Kardon with the amplifier? That wasn't clear from the first post. If so, the volume is controlled through the amplifier. There is a private CAN from the head unit to the amplifier, all the signal processing, and volume, is done at the amplifier. The head unit just sends a pair of line level outputs, along with CANBUS instructions on what to do for the volume, levels, fader, etc. The amplifier controls all the volume - and if the head unit can't talk to the amplifier properly, you'll get either the volume graphic will come up on the screen but not change (volume is sometimes present), or you get no audio and no graphic so the volume knob appears to do nothing. That's also two of the symptoms for when a HK system amplifier isn't responding properly in one of the technical service bulletins.

almost useful block diagram. you can see the line out and the AVC-LAN connection between the amplifier and the radio. The system without the amplifier just goes right to the speakers. Ignore DCM, that's the telematics unit, and I don't think you have those there.

Rectangle Font Parallel Slope Pattern


With a radio that isn't the harmon kardon amplifier version, some of the wires in one plug are the front and right speaker. In the harmon kardon system with an amplifier, those same wires are line outputs. There are other differences in that and another connector... and then the larger connector there are some differences between the systems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you so much Walker.. I think the reason is I got the head unit harmon Gordon with the amplifier. One more Question how direct is the connection between the amplifier and the head unit in this case ..?what do I need to get and if the connection isnt direct how do i go about it.
thanks
 

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ok. Connection stuff.

I've gone through the connections before - the wiring diagrams and connection information don't match 100% in the factory service manuals. The 2015 manual seems to forget there is an amplifier available, and omits that section... 2016-2017 they got it right.... messed it up again in 2018-2019.

I've reconciled the connections for what I think is correct based on all that. Also - all of these are based on the US market vehicles. Think it's pretty much the same.


Going to the amplifier.... a mix of wires from several connectors.

These all would go to the 24 pin connector on the amplifier


11 wires total.​
28 pin connector from radio:
Now, the 2018 introduced a second connection to the microphone. So instead of 3 wires, it's 6. Maybe dual mics or something. However - it shares the original 3 wires and connections that the 2015-2017 has. I think that will work ok.​
Three wires out of that connector need to go to the amplifier, Pins 7, 8 and 16. 7&8 in the 2018 are a twisted pair (for RF protection).​
that's it for that connector​
10 pin connector from radio:
wires 1,2,5,6 need to go, these are shielded pairs. wire #3 is a shared power with one connection to the amplifier. need to run a wire for that. On your old radio, these would be simple speaker level outputs. On the 2018, it's the line out - so these should go to your amp, and the speaker connections would come back to the wiring for some of the front speakers.​
6 pin connector from the radio:
wires 2,4,6 need to go to the amp. This is a shielded pair. Wire 4 is the shield. It is also shared with the shield in the two pair from the 10 pin connector. On your old radio, this would be the left hand rear speaker (maybe right side in your country - this stuff all assumes the US market).​

2018 Connector
2018 Function
Amp Input
Function
Note
(i35) or (i85) No. 1​
FRONT-RH (+)​
(i262) No. 5​
Right channel positive input​
Shielded wire​
(i35) or (i85) No. 2​
FRONT-LH (+)​
(i262) No. 3​
Left channel positive input​
Shielded wire​
(i35) or (i85) No. 3​
+ACC​
(i262) No. 12​
ACC power supply​
uses same fuse/circuit as radio switched power​
(i35) or (i85) No. 5​
FRONT-RH (–)​
(i262) No. 4​
Right channel negative input​
Shielded wire​
(i35) or (i85) No. 6​
FRONT-LH (–)​
(i262) No. 2​
Left channel negative input​
Shielded wire​
(i36) or (i131) No. 2​
REAR-LH (+) / INT+*1​
(i262) No. 15​
INT+​
Shielded wire​
(i36) or (i131) No. 4​
N.C. / SLD2*1​
(i262) No. 6​
Shield​
(i262) No. 18 connects to same shield/ground​
(i36) or (i131) No. 6​
REAR-LH (–) / INT (–)*1​
(i262) No. 14​
INT-​
Shielded wire​
(i87) No. 7​
N.C. / TX1+ (for brand AMP communication)*1​
(i262) No. 8​
TX+​
Twisted Pair​
(i87) No. 8​
N.C. / TX1– (for brand AMP communication)*1​
(i262) No. 7​
TX-​
Twisted Pair​
(i87) No. 16​
MUTE​
(i262) No. 1​
MUTE​

I included all this in a PDF - information in the general description section which shows a picture of the back of the radio and the amplifier - for these connector numbers. The chart is what you'd need to connect.

Outputs from the amplifier

all the speaker connections. There are more speakers from it than in your car, if you got the speakers too, they just hook straight to the amplifier. Spending money on expensive aftermarket is not a great bet, there is a lot of filtering and equalization going on, so a full range speaker where the amplifier expects something less is wasting the potential of the speaker. Plus the stock speakers fill up the mounting area nicely, less effort in trying to seal up aftermarket stuff for sound. Your call on that.​
Speakers are:​
Center Dash​
Left/Right Dash Tweeters​
Left/Right Front Door​
Left/Right Rear Door​
Subwoofer in rear.​
There is an unused fuse box connection under the hood - that goes straight to the amplifier. 30amp fuse. This splits when it gets to the amplifier, there are two power inputs to that fuse for whatever reason.​
Then you have to connect two ground wires. They run back through the harness to an engine ground. So just a good chassis ground should work.​
I put together a PDF. It has wiring from the 2015, and the 2018. Has connection information in each section (for the radio, for the amplifier). The wiring diagram will have a connector number, and then there is a chart with the connection information.

Since there are a few errors, I put together a few spreadsheets and stuck that in the PDF.
  • One is the connections of the 2015 vs 2018 radios to compare differences.
  • one shows connections at the amplifier (inputs, speaker outputs)
  • one shows what connections from the radio need to go to the amplifier and where.
  • one is the working 2015 vs 2018 sheet, showing the errors, things that were corrected in the 2016 manual (2015 was a first run for the model), things missing in the 2018.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Walker
thank you so much for taking your time to answer me, I have tried to follow and understand your explanation
but failed could you please using the photo bellow show me in the best way posible the connection may be numbers and where they would go to or marking the connectors.
the wires coming from the bottom are from the AMPLIFIER .
 

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The wires on the bottom are not part of an amplifier. That little box is listed as a "door lock back up" unit. I'm not 100% certain on the function -I think it's some sort of automatic door unlock thing in the event of an accident? Provides power for a brief time just to the door look actuators, so you can unlock the doors if there is no other power. It's wired into the relays that activate the door / rear gate locks, and to the Body Integrated Unit (BIU). It is part number 82131AL01A. For audio, you don't have to worry about any of those wires. They won't be used.

the amplifier would be installed underneath the passenger seat.

so this is your radio now. wires in connectors A, B, and C will go to the amplifier.

Circuit component Electrical wiring Automotive lighting Electronic engineering Computer hardware


the ones marked are the ones that need to be run....

Rectangle Font Parallel Slope Diagram


Here are those wires circled on the connectors... some are empty now. connector A has wires in all the places. Connector B is missing one wire - but all that does is a shield (ground) for the shielded pairs of wires. Maybe you don't really need to use that connection as a ground for a shield. Connector C would need 3 wires, none of which are currently occupied.

Electrical wiring Circuit component Electronic engineering Computer hardware Cable


The would all go to the amplifier....... that is all the pin numbers listed in the amplifier connector column.

Font Parallel Rectangle Diagram Art


So, the chart looks like this... connectors A, B, and C on the radio are now listed in the far left column. The AMP input is the graphic immediately above - so the one connector on the amplifier.

Rectangle Font Material property Parallel Pattern
 
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