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2005 Outback LLBEAN H6
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Discussion Starter #1
05 LLBEAN w/249K miles.

Recently the headlight low beams have started to burn out. Both were replaced at the same time a week ago and lasted about a week, when one blew and the other one with the next day.

Here is what i know:
Battery connections OK (recent new battery and post connections)
I can sometimes catch the headlights flare up in brightness and then back down again.
I also intermittently see the battery light in the dash light up very briefly <1 second and stay off for most of the time driving.
I took the car to local shop to have the alternator checked and it checked out OK.
NO check engine light on currently although there is a linger of a P420 unresolved and intermittent for years.
I placed a multimeter on the battery while engine running and read 14.3 volts for 5+ minutes, never a drop below 14v.
I've had the car since 86K and i have not replaced the alternator. I would assume the alternator was not replaced before I got the car and it does have mitzubishi stamp on it so that leads me to believe it is the original.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/lyCUJWJNDMCbpsAx2

Here is some data i collected from OBDwiz on a parameter " Input voltage read by the scan tool (V)"
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1k6...TprXAEHf2gebyq

About line 85 you can see it start to drop and bottom out ~12.9V.


Based on the data captured by the scan and the intermittent battery indicator on the dash would any sane man go ahead and order a new alternator or am i just over thinking this?
 

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'14 Subi OBW, '18 Subi Forester
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1,808 Posts
Assuming you haven't touched the glass when installing the bulbs and they only last a week, strongly suspect that you are running overvoltage at times. We had that happen on our 2002, and a replacement alternator cured all ills.
 

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18,300 Posts
Also, I'm fairly sure an over-voltage condition can be caused by a bad connection between the alternator "sense" terminal and the battery positive. This connection, in the 2005, is through a 7.5 Amp fuse in the main fuse box. If the connection at the fuse terminals is intermittent, when it goes open, the alternator will spike up to maximum, which 17-20 V. That will also cause the Battery warning light to come on. The fuse is identified as #16, Alternator. Perhaps try replacing it with new fuse of the same Amperage, and inserting it several times to ensure good contact. (Do this with the ignition Off.) In addition, check that the three-wire connector at the alternator is intact and that the contacts are good (again, remove and replace the connector a few times to ensure good contacts) and that the two nuts holding the large, main fuse in the fuse box, are snug.

Note: The H6 alternator is different, and posts here suggest that reliable replacements are hard to come by from auto parts store "rebuilts" or even "new". ( @eagleeye )
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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26,324 Posts
the 05 Bean actually takes the last of the 2001-2004 type H6 alternators.

no such thing as a good parts store reman on such things listed as for H6. (half fixed, with a lifetime guarantee for another half fixed thing, that may not actually be matched to the subaru EZ30)

I bought a DB for my H4 car and would buy one for my H6 car. (as they are known to work in it). its new not a reman, and they ship it without wanting the core back, (I had mine in 2 days).

https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/subaru-outback-3-0l-alternator-01-02-03-04-05.html

_____

there was another thread here about getting the real Mitsubishi for these also $$$. (again new, and not a reman)
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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17,711 Posts
check ground connections too. low power can kill the 'halogen cycle' or w'ever that modern bulbs need to re-deposit the tungsten to the filament.
 

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2006 Legacy Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT
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97 Posts
Sheesh. Have not confirmed on our cars, but the voltage regulator is usually in the alternator. Failure of these causes all kinds of weird problems. Been through this a bunch of times on a bunch of cars. Just spend the $ and get a factory alternator. Easy swap. Go drive it. Done.


Not to mention the 250K and aftermarket alternator bearing noise and failures. Etc.
 
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