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'07 Outback, 3.0R LL. Bean Wagon
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, folks

First time posting here. I had figured/hoped that my first time posting would be after buying my desired 05 Legacy GT wagon with low mileage. As it happens, I am in a bind with money, my daily driver and first car (99' corolla) just died, and my neighbor who's in her late 50s has offered to sell me her recently retired 07 LL Bean Loaded with exactly 200k mi, all highway between Cape Cod, MA and NJ). The car certainly has very high mileage for an Outback, my hope was that the h6 engine with timing chain instead of belt and sans header issues that are common with 4s it might last me another 50k miles or more if I take care of it. She's the 1st owner, has all maintenance records, nothing major has ever come up with the car, routine maintenance religiously at 3k mi. I don't need much just a daily driver for around town and 20 mi commute, and 2-3k is all I can spend... buying this vehicle leaves me with 1000-1500 to do any immediate work (its been looked over and apparently needs nothing, engine is strong, but I'll prob do water pump and some other little things) any warnings or suggestions regarding preventative maintenance? Don't do it, buy another beater corolla? (really don't want to, this car is COMFY and I love Subaru).


Thanks for any insight you all might be able to offer.
 

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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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on the surface, it seems like a decent option for you. not many of us get to see a neighbor regularly drive and maintain our next used car!

We may not be able to help much but, if you are still concerned about the car - have a pre-purchase inspection done, preferably by an independent shop familiar with Subarus. If the find a major issue, you may have spent $100 to avoid that $1500 hit in the first few days of ownership. If they find something minor/moderate - use that to negotiate a better price.


doh - missed the 3.0 part
 

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Fresh Out of Outbacks!
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It's going to cost more to run than a Corolla. More fuel burnt and more things are likely to break.

...but it's still a very good choice.

I wouldn't worry about the water pump yet. Better to save the $ for whatever truly presents itself as the first problem.

Good luck with it!
 

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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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does the 07 need high octane?
 

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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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18,665 Posts
if you ever have the valve covers off, have the valve lash checked - or investigate the service records for indication the valves have been adjusted.
 

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does the 07 need high octane?
It doesn't need high octane in the sense that you won't break the engine with regular 87 fuel. But this engine is a real weirdo in the sense that it will deliver more MPG and more smiles-per-mile power if you feed it high octane fuel. In fact some people were staying ahead of the extra cost of premium, but I don't know if that's possible anymore. The price gap between regular and premium has widened since that car was new.
 

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'07 Outback, 3.0R LL. Bean Wagon
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi folks thank you all for your input I was able to put together a list of things I was able to address before even registering the car. Took a bit to get it into my own driveway as the title was misplaced. Everything on the engine seems pristine almost like it has 100k mi less than it does. Will be changing the oil soon and will look for some advice on transitioning from Dino oil to synthetic high mileage as it's had regular valvolene 5w30 it's whole life. The last recorded spark plug change was at 130k (odometer now reads 200k exactly) with iridium plugs so I hope that will be my first undertaking as the car has been sitting for a few months. I'll be learning to maintain the car myself. Thanks again everyone. See you around the forums.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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Hi folks thank you all for your input I was able to put together a list of things I was able to address before even registering the car. Took a bit to get it into my own driveway as the title was misplaced. Everything on the engine seems pristine almost like it has 100k mi less than it does. Will be changing the oil soon and will look for some advice on transitioning from Dino oil to synthetic high mileage as it's had regular valvolene 5w30 it's whole life. The last recorded spark plug change was at 130k (odometer now reads 200k exactly) with iridium plugs so I hope that will be my first undertaking as the car has been sitting for a few months. I'll be learning to maintain the car myself. Thanks again everyone. See you around the forums.
as far as changing the oil, unless you think there is slugging I would not worry,

if you want to try something creative, dump some regular seafoam in the crank case and drive around a day before the oil change. (directions on the can, does not take much and the rest makes for like greatest gas stabilizer ,


I did this when I bought a truck once, just because of a lack of great recent maint. and the obviously old oil that was in it when I bought it,
(everything was running OK and it was still full, just 3500 miles or so on 3 year old 10w30 dino oil. as per the sticker from the gas station that did it under the hood.)

I think @traildogck has used lucas products for this also, and might have a more valued opinion.


here is a thread on changing H6 spark plugs

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...-how-change-your-h6-spark-plugs-easy-way.html

and congrats, that is a great sought after car you got there.
 

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2014 3.6R Limited
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If you change to synthetic with that many miles of Dino Oil use be prepared for most of your seals to start leaking oil.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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If you change to synthetic with that many miles of Dino Oil use be prepared for most of your seals to start leaking oil.
I am not sure that such old adages play here with a engine that hopefully has good oil seals on it in the first place,

vs. say a abused 300,000 mile dodge stratus. where the oil sludge from 5 years ago is holding the current oil volume in the car like a paste inside crap seals that are on it.
 

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There's no point in using synthetic in that car. It was designed for regular oil and isn't known for any problem that is normally solved by synthetic oil.

It doesn't usually hurt anything other than your bank account, but there is an increased chance of leakage as noted above.

Put a set of NGK ILFR6B (#6481) plugs in there, keep going with a good dino oil and enjoy driving it. Plugs are a real bear to change in that one so accept no substitutes, do it right and leave them in for at least 60k.
 

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'07 Outback, 3.0R LL. Bean Wagon
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Really have to hand it to you guys, excellent advice through and through. I've learned a lot these past couple of months with my OB and the backup of this forum. Have been running standard 5w30 oil changed now twice as I have put 3k on the odometer since purchasing. Have installed fresh NGK iridiums after some painstaking work and have to say this car runs like a dream. I have a speed sensor code coming up causing a CEL every so often and am currently diagnosing that and dicing up whether to replace the $300 lower sensor. Not noticing any throttle response problems and have a fresh inspection sticker. Loving every mile in this car, dedicated to finding another to replace in the coming years.


Cheers
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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27,123 Posts
Really have to hand it to you guys, excellent advice through and through. I've learned a lot these past couple of months with my OB and the backup of this forum. Have been running standard 5w30 oil changed now twice as I have put 3k on the odometer since purchasing. Have installed fresh NGK iridiums after some painstaking work and have to say this car runs like a dream. I have a speed sensor code coming up causing a CEL every so often and am currently diagnosing that and dicing up whether to replace the $300 lower sensor. Not noticing any throttle response problems and have a fresh inspection sticker. Loving every mile in this car, dedicated to finding another to replace in the coming years.


Cheers

remember you have a internal code reader that maybe able to read more codes then hand helds:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...9-how-read-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtcs.html
 

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2005 Outback R LL Bean 3.0 H6 w/ 5 speed sport shift
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I have a quick suggestion on the spark plug change.......
Remove bottom splash pan if its still there.
get plug socket, wobble and 8 inch extension.
you may want a 3-4 inch extension for the ones nearer the front of the engine.
you'll also need a 12 mm socket or end wrench for the coils.

You will have to assemble/disassemble the 3-4" extension onto the plug socket while inside the valve cover to clear the frame but it works once you get the hang of it!

With this set up I can change my plugs in 45 minutes.

I've watched the "easy method" working from above the plugs and I can't see how it can be better than from the bottom.

You may want to anticipate a driveshaft in your future, if it hasn't been changed out. U-joints go bad and they aren't replaceable.

Not certain about the 07's but if the screw on transmission filter hasn't been changed, do it. It's located behind the battery inside the fender well.

Good luck, as a former Camry & Avalon owner, you will have days when you wish you had them back!

I do have to say, I've been pretty impressed with the engineering on the Subaru's.

They actually look like the engineers thought about maintenance, which many manufacturers tend to ignore!
 
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