Well I pulled the studs off and screwed them into the engine. But I am having a **** of a time trying to get the engine to go on. I lined it up as best as I could but its like there's something blocking it.
Input shaft of the transmission is hitting on the edge of the pilot bushing in the flywheel or the gears of the shaft and clutch disc are not meshing.
That's where the "wiggle room" comes in.
I'm laughing. Really.
Okay, look. Its a PITA sometimes with the studs in. But the studs need to be there in order to get the proper length of threads to insure proper torquing.
The axles come out easy enough. You can get the engine stabbed in minus the studs, get everything hooked up, bolted down and leave the studs for last.
Here's what you do: Take off the front wheels. Disconnect the brake hose bracket on the strut. You don't need to remove the brakes, just the bracket for the hose to allow the spindle to swing out. Loosen the axle nut just to insure you don't pull the joint apart and make sure the axle is loose in the hub. Remove the two strut bolts. Mark the strut with a scribe so you can get the upper camber bolt back in the way it came out, (makes realignment easier). Then knock out the pinch pin from the inner joint and slide the axle away from the transmission allowing the spindle to pitch out. This will give you enough room to get the stud in. :29:
If your car has ABS, loose the clamps for the sensor wire also.