[ding]

I'm pulling the old EJ25 motor out of my 99 OBW and I can only get the engine and transmission separated at the furthest point is half an inch to an inch. We've tried not putting any weight on the lift just pulling it out and the bottom will pull but it seems like the top binds. If the top will pull the bottom will bind. Please help! I have to get this done tomorrow and could really use the help!

Thanks in advance!

 

[mxmikie]

did you unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel ???

 

[ding]

I have no idea. I'll check that.

 

[cardoc]

I have no idea. I'll check that.

You would remember. Its a tight fit getting the tool in the access hole. I find a 1/4 drive ratchet and short 12mm in the right spot can get it almost as well as the offset wrench.

 

[idosubaru]

You would remember.

indeed.

or the lower engine mounts are still hanging up in the holes/on the crossmember.

 

[ding]

Does the mt have the torque converter bolts attached to the flywheel? I've spun the flywheel and there are holes for bolts but no bolts.

 

[cardoc]

Does the mt have the torque converter bolts attached to the flywheel? I've spun the flywheel and there are holes for bolts but no bolts.

Manual transmission is different. We assumed automatic.

You need to jack up the front of he transmission with a floor jack while also raising the engine. Once it's up high enough to clear the engine mounts, it will separate with pulling in a direct line center of the transmission. The object is to keep the eng and trans on the same plane to keep the input shaft straight.

And be careful not to bend the lower engine to trans studs.

 

[ding]

You were right man, thanks!

 

[cardoc]

Before you start a thread "Engine Won't Stab to Transmission", there are two ways you can go about installation. The first is less disassembly. Make sure you have the clutch lined up dead center to the pilot bearing. You will not have "wiggle room" with the lower studs in the block. You CAN NOT remove the lower studs from the block and then install them after without doing the second option which is remove both axles.

 

[ding]

I'm swapping engines and putting in a JDM motor that doesn't have the studs on it.

 

[cardoc]

Then you will have to install the studs prior to stabbing the engine or remove the axles to install them after the stab. You can't get them through the bell with the axle in and the engine against the trans. No room.

 

[ding]

****. I was under the impression that all I had to do was use the stock bolts to hold it in that the studs weren't used again.

 

[cardoc]

Even if you have a set of bolts with heads on them, the length required to pass through the transmission housing and thread in the engine block will not allow you to get them in because the axle is in the way just enough to be a hindrance.

The H6 even has two studs at the base of the engine.

 

[ding]

Well I pulled the studs off and screwed them into the engine. But I am having a **** of a time trying to get the engine to go on. I lined it up as best as I could but its like there's something blocking it.

 

[cardoc]

Well I pulled the studs off and screwed them into the engine. But I am having a **** of a time trying to get the engine to go on. I lined it up as best as I could but its like there's something blocking it.

Input shaft of the transmission is hitting on the edge of the pilot bushing in the flywheel or the gears of the shaft and clutch disc are not meshing.

That's where the "wiggle room" comes in.

I'm laughing. Really.

Okay, look. Its a PITA sometimes with the studs in. But the studs need to be there in order to get the proper length of threads to insure proper torquing.

The axles come out easy enough. You can get the engine stabbed in minus the studs, get everything hooked up, bolted down and leave the studs for last.

Here's what you do: Take off the front wheels. Disconnect the brake hose bracket on the strut. You don't need to remove the brakes, just the bracket for the hose to allow the spindle to swing out. Loosen the axle nut just to insure you don't pull the joint apart and make sure the axle is loose in the hub. Remove the two strut bolts. Mark the strut with a scribe so you can get the upper camber bolt back in the way it came out, (makes realignment easier). Then knock out the pinch pin from the inner joint and slide the axle away from the transmission allowing the spindle to pitch out. This will give you enough room to get the stud in. :29:

If your car has ABS, loose the clamps for the sensor wire also.

 

[ding]

Well I had to take it to a mechanic unfortunately. I couldn't get it lined up for some reason (I'm thinking the engine wasn't going on straight), and I have to leave for a cert class next week so I didn't have enough time. Thanks for all the help though!