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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,
I am a newcomer to the forums but I am here to ask for help. So I have multiple codes being thrown on my 06 OB 2.5i Base. Please read the whole post. ANY AND ALL HELP APPRECIATED
Recent problems but fixed, abs speed sensors were chewed up by bearing, the alternator was outputting 14.98 volts killing the battery. All wheel hub bearings replaced and front axles replaced.

Current Codes as listed (CODES WERE THROWN BEFORE ALTERNATOR PROBLEM AND CAME BACK AFTER):
  • 27 ODS Communication error (I have been told that this is an airbag problem but I do not know what to do)
  • C0111 Motor and Motor Relay (I have been told by my mechanic that this is the abs module that has failed)
  • P1443 EVAP Vent Control Solenoid Function Fault (I have been told this is the charcoal canister but I do not know what to do)
  • P0420 (I know this is a bad Catalytic Converter and I am working on sourcing one)

Non-code Issues(describing best as possible)
  • I have gotten oil into the spark plugs causing horrible misfires, this is the second time I have replaced the plugs. (What causes the oil to get on the spark plugs and in the threads)
  • For the past 3 weeks, the car shakes on acceleration only. The harder the acceleration the larger the shake. Worst while cruising at 35mph and 70mph
 

Master Caster
馃枻馃挃馃挋 3 Beautiful OBXTs
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You have a lot going on here. One code at a time. We need to break it down. Slow it down.

  • Hold up on the new cat, you might not need it.
  • Oil on the plugs could be a few different things. Do you have any oil leaks? The 2.5 NA motor has valve cover gaskets for the spark plugs (IIRC)
  • The shakes could be several things. Motor mounts, pitch stop, transmission mount, CV axles. Are the shakes in the steering wheel, the chassis? (your butt?)
We can help, others can chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You have a lot going on here. One code at a time. We need to break it down. Slow it down.

  • Hold up on the new cat, you might not need it.
  • Oil on the plugs could be a few different things. Do you have any oil leaks? The 2.5 NA motor has valve cover gaskets for the spark plugs (IIRC)
  • The shakes could be several things. Motor mounts, pitch stop, transmission mount, CV axles. Are the shakes in the steering wheel, the chassis? (your butt?)
We can help, others can chime in.
First thanks for the fast reply!
  • I do not have any oil leaks.
  • The shakes can be felt in my butt but the steering wheel will shake as well. The shaking changes throughout acceleration. It also rattles body panels and my mirrors to the point where they are useless.
 

Master Caster
馃枻馃挃馃挋 3 Beautiful OBXTs
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Alright.

Have you tried swapping the rear tires to the front and see if that shake goes from the butt to the the steering wheel, to the front. It could be a bent wheel.

Then, if nothing changes, I would look into the:
  • transmission mount
  • motor mounts
  • pitch stop (the dog bone looking thing from the back of the motor to the firewall)
  • CV axels
  • driveshaft u-joints
  • driveshaft carrier bearing
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Alright.

Have you tried swapping the rear tires to the front and see if that shake goes from the butt to the the steering wheel, to the front. It could be a bent wheel.

Then, if nothing changes, I would look into the:
  • transmission mount
  • motor mounts
  • pitch stop (the dog bone looking thing from the back of the motor to the firewall)
  • CV axels
  • driveshaft u-joints
  • driveshaft carrier bearing
I will try the wheels and the others suggested but I can say that the CV axels are good. I will update once I check it out. Thanks
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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You may not have any external oil leaks, but oil in the spark plug hole only comes from one source: the spark plug tube seals. (it's technically possible to have the tube itself unseated in the head, but that's a whole 'nother can-of-worms) Remove a spark plug wire from the head. Look at the hole in the valve cover, you should see some oil residue (or a small pool) on the lower ring between the valve cover gasket and the metal tube. I'd link your horrible shaking/misfire to the oil causing this issue, before going crazy other causes first.

Your P1443 code refers to the charcoal canister "drain valve". The service manual states it's not serviceable (part of the whole canister), but you can check it's operation and check for a clogged drain/vent hose. I've attached the diag sheet from the service manual if you want to check yourself.

Sometimes it can be clogged or fuel-soaked if you try to continue filling the fuel tank after the automatic shut-off.
 

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2017 3.6 Touring, 2021 Limited
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I will try the wheels and the others suggested but I can say that the CV axles are good. I will update once I check it out. Thanks
Did you replace the CVs with OEM or aftermarket? couple of people on the forums have had issues with the aftermarkets, if it is aftermarket I would check everything else first, but don't rule it out.

As stated above, more than likely you need to do the Valve cover gaskets (search the forums for the Tech bulletins about the procedure and sealant that will be needed) , but going off of the problems you've had already I would suggest doing it anyway (even if you didn't have oil in the sparks), this will give you a chance to get eyes on the cams and get a chance to see if there is any gunk built up in there from not having a good oil change interval. While you are there clean the PCV valve (literally a 2 min job).

If there is a lot of gunk....I'd suggest upping your oil change intervals to 3k and using a high-surfactant oil (I use Rotella) for a couple of oil changes. But this can be a double edged sword where the gunk has sealed up holes and you start to get MORE oil leaks.

For the airbag - check to see if the car has all it's recall work done (many are airbag replacements, so hopefullly that just fixes the problem itself). the dealership may try to talk you into fixing it all there (they're trying to make a living), but getting all the recalls settled is always a good place to start.
 

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2008 Outback 2.5
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+1 on changing the valve cover gaskets and sparkplug oil seals.
It's a technically simple job but in practice, it's a pain because there is so little room to pull the valve cover off on the passenger side and so little room to remove the lower rear bolt on the driver's side. I was never able to completely remove the passenger side VCG but I was able to simply pull the old one off and install the new one with the valve cover flopping around in the engine compartment. The spark plug oil seals were as hard as a rock.


 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
@traildogck I have done some diagnosing with a family friend ( used to do autobody ) The culprit of the shaking is my rear driveshaft u-joint all other points you mentioned are solid. The question now is, can just the u-joint be replaced or does the whole driveshaft need to be replaced?
 

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The u-joints in the stock driveshaft are staked, that means they are meant to be permanent.

They can be unstaked with a cold chisel, there have been a few members here that have gone that route. If you have a driveline shop in your area, they can do it. there are several places in Denver that will. There is also the salvage yard route. I did that on my 2005 XT. When I bought it, it had a Dorman aftermarket driveshaft just installed. I blew the rear joint out in that new shaft doing a boost launch less than 6 months into owning the car. My plan was to have "Bill's Englewood Driveshaft" replace the u-joints. Sadly that shaft is still lying on my garage floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@traildogck I have done some diagnosing with a family friend ( used to do autobody ) The culprit of the shaking is my rear driveshaft u-joint all other points you mentioned are solid. The question now is, can just the u-joint be replaced or does the whole driveshaft need to be replaced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
+1 on changing the valve cover gaskets and sparkplug oil seals.
It's a technically simple job but in practice, it's a pain because there is so little room to pull the valve cover off on the passenger side and so little room to remove the lower rear bolt on the driver's side. I was never able to completely remove the passenger side VCG but I was able to simply pull the old one off and install the new one with the valve cover flopping around in the engine compartment. The spark plug oil seals were as hard as a rock.


I have the same issue as you pictured but I checked the bolts on the Valve Cover are going to fall apart once they are touched. I am afraid if it gets done it will open up another can of worms. It is so bad on my car it looks like nuts, not bolts on the Valve Cover.
 

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2008 Outback 2.5
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I have the same issue as you pictured but I checked the bolts on the Valve Cover are going to fall apart once they are touched. I am afraid if it gets done it will open up another can of worms. It is so bad on my car it looks like nuts, not bolts on the Valve Cover.
That's too bad. Maybe someone can help you with procedures on how to replace bolts with rusted and sheared heads.

But I think you'll have to remove the VCG's in order to replace the spark plug seals. No other way around it. Otherwise you end up with oil constantly leaking into the spark plug wells and causing misfires.

If you see oil weeping from the headgasket area, this would be a good time to replace them and since you have to remove the valve covers anyway, it would be a good time to remove and replace those rusty bolts. This is assuming you or the person doing the job intended to lift the engine to replace the headgaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@rsrocket sadly I do not have the time, money, nor the trust in the shops in my area to do headgasket, only the vcg and spark plug seals
 

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2008 Outback 2.5
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Then you should do a search on how to remove fasteners with badly rusted bolt heads. I don't know how to do that but there may be a way to remove them with the likelihood of being able to remove the stud in the event the bolt head shears off. I'm sure some rust belt mechanics have techniques on how to do this successfully. There's also a good chance that there will be enough of the stud left above the engine head to simply twist out with some vice grips or some other tool.

Good luck.
 
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