[DavidPeab]

As I was replacing the rear caliper slide pins on my 00 OBW with auto trans, I saw that the pads on the drivers side were toast. Not a surprise, that wheel had been overheating and that is why I doing the pins and bolts. While I was at it I put on new rotors along with the pads. The passenger side spins freely when jacked up. The drivers side (the one that was hot) spun freely when I put the new rotor on, spun fine when I put the tire on and hand tightened the lug nuts. As soon as I tightened the lugs the wheel froze completely. I was able to torque the tires (72 lbs) while still jacked up. I spun the star wheels so much there is no e-brake. It is so loose it will not engage.

What could it be? Note, the heating on the old drivers side rotor was intermittent and the wheel did turn freely (not zippy fast, but ok by hand) before the brake job.

 

[rasterman]

sounds like there's still an issue with the slide pins- caliper isn't able to slide to a position where the rotor is free to rotate.

 

[DavidPeab]

I took the slide pins out and added more grease. They were springy. Could I have overtightened the bolts? The mystery is why would the wheel spin freely until I tightened the lug nuts?

 

[DavidPeab]

More info: I checked the Autozone site and they sold me the correct rotors and pads. Both sides have the same part numbers from unopened packages and the passenger side pins, bolts, rotors, and pads worked fine. So that eliminates the possibility of mismatched or wrong sized parts.

I had to compress the caliper piston to reinstall it. I did not bleed the lines - maybe good because there is no air - or maybe bad because I'm using old fluid. Main question - could that cause this symptom? I mean apart from the "you should change your brake fluid every 2 years" speech.

I am considering getting a new caliper. Are there taboos about aftermarket (Autozone, Advanced Auto parts, etc.) calipers? Can I get away with just one, or do they need to be changed in pairs? Did I mention I have 3 mouths to feed? ;-)

 

[canubaru]

something slipped or got coock-eyed during re-assembly . take it apart and check every thing.

 

[DavidPeab]

I'll do that tomorrow and see if that helps. The hard part was getting it all off the first time. I nearly got a hernia trying to free the bolts.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

I suppose a bent caliper bracket could ,with new pads, create interference in the last few thousandths of an inch as the rotor is snugged down by the lugnuts.

I'd consider disassembling things enough to slip the inner pad out, then reassemble and put the tire on, torqued the same as now, just to prove the theory that it is the inner pad causing the interference.

 

[DavidPeab]

I took everything apart on both sides, sanded the "ears" on the pads so that they slide on the tabs - before they sort of just clicked in - greased the heck out of everything, reassembled, and the wheels are turning fine.

New concern: While driving they are kind of loud - not while braking, I put a thin film of grease on the front and back of the shims - but when taking off they are chirpy, and a bit of rubbing noise. It seems to clear up as I accelerate over 20 mph. I also had some judder but that seemed almost gone by the time I got home. I imagine the pads are still bedding. I drove about 2 miles up to 50 mph and braked down to 40. Some complete stops where needed. I am using Duralast Gold pads and rotors. Maybe one of you could help me with a decent bedding routine. I'll make a separate post about that as well. I'm hoping the noises will clear up as the pads and rotors mate. I don't recall so much noise with the front brakes but it was cold out and I had the windows up and the heat on. Perhaps these will take a bit longer because they are the rear brakes and don't see as much action? Also, passenger side rotor seemed a bit hotter than the others - using the "spit test." I need to spring for a digital thermometer.

 

[DavidPeab]

UPDATE: After about 300 miles the brakes are seated or broken-in and they sound (well no sound actually) and feel fine - smooth stopping with no judder or pulling.