[rUsMishka]

I have an 05 Subaru Outback H6 LL Bean and the transmission just started acting up. The check engine light came on, the Sport light is flashing and the Cruise light is flashing. The car still drives but feels like it has no bottom end torque, it will probably not be able to handle anything other than flat ground. What can this be and where do I start?

 

[eagleeye]

battery and alternator working? one of the early signs of a failing alternator is a struggling trans. (alternator failing,...fails to charge battery, car sputters without full electrics).

Ez30 cars are really particular about what alternator is in there.

what is the check engine code?

 

[rUsMishka]

I'm actually wondering if it was just a loose gas cap, I found that those are the symptoms as ridiculous as it might sound. I made it is tight but the lights are still on......I'm hoping they go away after a little bit. The car did recently start making a chirping sound at right 1900rpm when accelerating, I have not been able to figure out what might be causing it. Any quick way to clear the check engine light without an OB2 tool?

 

[traildogck]

I'm actually wondering if it was just a loose gas cap, I found that those are the symptoms as ridiculous as it might sound. I made it is tight but the lights are still on......I'm hoping they go away after a little bit. The car did recently start making a chirping sound at right 1900rpm when accelerating, I have not been able to figure out what might be causing it. Any quick way to clear the check engine light without an OB2 tool?

Disconnect the battery for..10 min...pump the brake pedal a few times, connect the battery.

 

[rUsMishka]

Took it to the parts shop and they pulled the following codes:

P0758 - Shift Solenoid B
P0700 - Transmission Control Unit

Probably quite a bit worse than a loose gas cap.... :/

Anyone had to deal with these issues? Cost? Is this a DYI project or will this require a shop?

 

[plain OM]

Anyone had to deal with these issues?

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...0051-5eat-transmission-solenoid-sticking.html

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...6-traction-abs-sport-cruise-check-engine.html

 

[traildogck]

There can be many causes. A new tranny is rarely one of them.

The posted links are good threads.

 

[rUsMishka]

Reply

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...0051-5eat-transmission-solenoid-sticking.html

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...6-traction-abs-sport-cruise-check-engine.html

Both of the attached threads were related but don't seem to offer up a clear solution. One doesn't really state how the problem was fixed and the other states that they simply replaced a battery and the transmission codes went away. My battery is pretty new so I don't think my car is locking up and acting the way it is simply due to a an old battery. The P0758 code tells me that Shift Solenoid B may have an open circuit and needs to be replaced. I've called around a couple of reputable Subaru shops and if it is a bad solenoid they would have to replace the whole valve body($1,500 job), so I am trying to see if there is any way of replacing just that particular solenoid. I did hear they are hard to find and usually not available locally but cost roughly $180, much cheaper. Not sure why shops won't replace just that one part. Now I guess I need to figure out the easiest way to confirm that it is in fact a bad solenoid and figure out how or if I can replace it. I'm guessing to check if it is the solenoid I would need to pull the tranny pan off, pin-point the solenoid and test it, see if it clicks when voltage is applied to it(need to figure out how many volts to apply?) If it doesn't click then it is probably a bad solenoid I need to replace it, if it does click then I am back to square one, trying to figure out what the actual problem is with a drained transmission. By the way, do they sell transmission pan gaskets or how is this resealed?

 

[plain OM]

Both of the attached threads were related but don't seem to offer up a clear solution. . . . The P0758 code tells me that Shift Solenoid B may have an open circuit and needs to be replaced. . . . Now I guess I need to figure out the easiest way to confirm that it is in fact a bad solenoid and figure out how or if I can replace it. I'm guessing to check if it is the solenoid I would need to pull the tranny pan off, pin-point the solenoid and test it, see if it clicks . . .

There's a FSM troubleshooting chart in the first linked thread, attached to this post.

The code isn't a performance code, i.e., where the TCM is commanding the solenoid and where the oil pressure controlled by the solenoid isn't changing accordingly.

Also, the code is for an open circuit or short. It's not likely a mechanically-stuck solenoid; that wouldn't cause a code related to the electrical connection being open or shorted. It could be the solenoid winding is open, or the connection at the solenoid is broken, but it could also be the wiring between the TCM and the solenoid, or the ground. There's several connectors in the circuit that could have a bad contact.

Is there any sign of the flat bottom of the pan being, or ever been, pushed up?

 

[rUsMishka]

I took the car down to a local Subaru Shop to have it checked out. They checked the harness on the outside of the tranny and then pulled the pan and checked it on the inside and the harness looked fine. The problem seems to be in the solenoid not working when the tranny warms up so the solenoid needs to be replaced. Since this is a 5EAT valve body, the solenoid can't be replaced alone and the whole valve body needs to be swapped out for a new one to the tune of $1,500, very unfortunate. The turnaround time sound like maybe just over 24hrs, not bad since other shops I called wouldn't have even been able to look at my car and charge $120 to diagnose 24 hours from today. I did call a local Subaru dealership to see how much a new valve body would run me, and they said they can get one in 24hrs for just over $1100 after Tax. So all things considered, after the new valve body from the shop with warranty,a tranny flush and new fluid, I would not be saving myself a whole ton of money doing the work myself. In the process of my research, I did find a video that shows how to remove and replace a valve body on this transmission so if anyone is looking to do the work themselves I hope they fine this useful:

I'll keep everyone posted on the results.

 

[idosubaru]

good job finding a shop that would properly diagnose it like that. excellent work on their part.

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market or JDM transmission
would be sources for cheaper valve bodies if someone wanted to tackle this themselves. buy a used trans or one with a blown diff, etc. i just bought a JDM trans for like $700 recently.

 

[eagleeye]

good job finding a shop that would properly diagnose it like that. excellent work on their part.

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market or JDM transmission
would be sources for cheaper valve bodies if someone wanted to tackle this themselves. buy a used trans or one with a blown diff, etc. i just bought a JDM trans for like $700 recently.

I am thinking all of those JDM automatic transmissions for EZ30R are going to be VDC type,...if it matters.

 

[idosubaru]

I am thinking all of those JDM automatic transmissions for EZ30R are going to be VDC type,...if it matters.

ah crack, right. i'd guess the valve bodies are same but more than likely we'll never know.

 

[rUsMishka]

I got the car back Wednesday morning and all seems to be good now with the transmission. I will note that the first few drives had me a bit concerned as the transmission would shift pretty rough from 1st to second gear pretty much every single time but that problem corrected itself. I believe this was due to new fluid in the transmission which the system had to take time to adjust to, the car is shifting smoothly now. If anyone needs repairs from a shop in the Denver area I'd suggest the shop I took it down to, 'Subie Auto Repairs', those guys got the job done in a day and a half for the same price as any Subaru shop would have charged and taken much longer to complete.