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6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need some help here. Recently bought an 05 Outback, 2.5 Auto 142K, with a blown motor. Swapped in a new engine assembly and now it wont start. The outback was in perfect running condition prior to the motor blowing.

Heres what I know:
-Wont start in either park or neutral
-There is spark
-Crank sensor and cam sensor tested good
-Fuel pump is priming and fuel is getting to the fuel rails
-Engine will run when spraying starter fluid in intake but dies when you stop
-With Key in "run" postion (Last click), there is a buzzing noise coming from the neutral safety switch when put in reverse and drive
-New battery

Any help would be greatly appreciated, Ive searched and searched and cant find any answers. Any questions just ask!! Thanks!!

· Registered
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
you have done all the hard part. you have identified it as a fuel delivery issue.

i would check the hose from the fuel filter to the engine. it should be connected to the top, front most line on the engine. if you get these mixed up it will not run.

also, if you messed with the wiring harness by removing it from the intake manifold, it is possible that you have the wires to the injectors backwards. but if you didn't pull the manifold or the harness off of it there is almost no chance of this. but it has happened.

if you have a mechanics stethoscope, <$5 at harbor freight, listen to the injectors as some one else turns the keey.

pull a plug and see if it is wet with fuel.

if possible swap in a known good cam sensor. use the one off of the engine you removed.

good luck.
Yes the feed and return lines are correct where they meet the motor. We pulled the feed fuel line off the where it connects to the metal engine line and a good flow of fuel comes out when the fuel pump primes.

There was already an untouched engine harness connected to the new engine.

Tried the screwdriver trick to hear if the injectors are clicking and they are not.

Pulled a plug already and no fuel on it

We switched out the crank sensor with the one from the old motor and no change, though both sensors tested fine. Havent switched out the cam sensor but it tested fine.

I guess this info I could have already provided :) but thanks for the reply!!

· Registered
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
crank sensor = spark
cam sensor = fuel

if the cam sensor does not help, you might consider the ECU ? they rarely fail so i would check everything else 2 or 3 times before even considering this. especially since it worked fine before you pulled the engine.

but before you suspect that, swap the cam sensor and if that does not help then the injectors, from the old engine. if no joy there i guess you should measure the fuel pressure and the regulator..
Thats good info right there. Before swapping the cam sensor we are gonna test it again.

Now im unsure of the year of the engine, I can tell you that it has sat in its shipping crate, in a warehouse for a very long time. It was thought to be a brand new engine but the plugs show it has been ran before.

Its not possible that the injectors are sticking is it?

· Registered
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Older subes there was an obscure cam or crank sensor wheel difference between manual and auto, or legacy and STI, or something like that.

Maybe a visual on the actual sensors and sensor-wheels would pay dividends.
Hmmm might have to look into that!! Thanks for the reply!!

All grounds were checked at the ecu for continuity and they checked out good.

Now on to the main relay...
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