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2002 Outback 107k very cherry, just bought it
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Discussion Starter #1
Packing the ego in the closet while I type this out. Spent a long time doing my first 2.5 SOHC head gasket redo on our 2002 OB and assumed that the machine shop guy that did the head work sealed the rocker arm to head surfaces, but he didn't and of course, I didn't either. Engine runs great expept for the weeping oil from that metal to metal contact. Had a local indy shop verify it was coming from the head to rocker arm cover frame after I had swore that after the 3rd cam seal replacement procedure I'd done was not the problem.

SOOOO.... I can't imagine even with pristine clean surfaces that any sort of external sealing is going to work, so my primary question is this....Can the rocker arm cage be resealed with the engine in the vehicle? I realize the timing belt will have to come off and the cams will have to come off and the cages will have to come off and a lot of cleaning will be needed. Things may be a bit tight up in there, but I'd really like to avoid pulling the motor if at all possible.

Is there a better sealant than the small tube of black stuff that comes with the Felpro kit? IIRC, a little bit of it oozing out the inside and outside parts of the frame is okay if you clean up after yourself. I'm pretty sure it was a simpmle black RTV silicone product.

If any one has had to do this procedure I'd be all ears as to any pointers or tips necessary to fix the screw up. We plan on driving this vehicle for several more years, so better to fix it now and not have to pay the indy shop the $700 they want to remedy the situation.

TIA

DM&FS
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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I'm not 100% sure if you can reach the allen-head bolts in the rear of the head with the engine in the car (using any normal sized allen wrench or socket). You might be able to loosen the motor mounts and pitch stopper and pull the engine up an inch or so to gain more clearance.

You shouldn't have to remove the camshaft itself, per se, but it will want to pop off while you remove the cradle.

It's not an easy job, and you'll have to readjust the valve lash after the sealant has hardened and you've performed your final torque.

I like to use TripleBond (available from Subaru), HondaBond is good and cheaper than TripleBond, from the dealer. RightStuff Gray (from Permatex) is good, and available in a Cheeze-Whiz can to make applying it quicker.
 

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2002 Outback 107k very cherry, just bought it
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks DR. I'll check clearances on both sides before I get too hot and heavy into this procedure.


DM&FS
 
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