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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I have a 2011 outback 2.5i with the cvt. The car has a horrible jolt when taking off from a stop. It feels like you’re dumping the clutch in a manual. One odd thing I noticed is that this doesn’t happen when using manual mode, Only in drive will the car do this. The car just had a torque converter put in to try to solve the issue and it did not help. Any help would be appreciated!
 

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2012 OB , 2017 Impreza
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I hear these stories when someone just spent big $$ to fix a problem.... but it is not fixed.

It is sad that some shops think it is OK to charge for such things with apparently no responsibility to the customer. It is farr more lucrative to just replace parts and charge for them than to actually TROUBLESHOOT and DIAGNOSE a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I hear these stories when someone just spent big $$ to fix a problem.... but it is not fixed.

It is sad that some shops think it is OK to charge for such things with apparently no responsibility to the customer. It is farr more lucrative to just replace parts and charge for them than to actually TROUBLESHOOT and DIAGNOSE a problem.
Unfortunately that’s what happened to me, I’m a diesel mechanic and im sure I could have dug into it and diagnosed it better but I work crazy hours and just didn’t have the time. Therefore it went to a shop and now im stuck with a repair bill and a issue that is still not corrected.
 

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2006 Subaru Outback Wagon 2.5L XT Limited
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288 Posts
Did the transmission pump get replaced?
 

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2006 Subaru Outback Wagon 2.5L XT Limited
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The transmission pump probably should have been replaced while torque converter was replaced. Most mechanics overlook this issue, quite a bit, because it is usually a mechanical pump. However all pumps will fail eventually. If the pump is not building enough pressure at idle, then when you raise the engine idle, then the pump will build pressure enough to shift.

Since the value body, uses hydraulic pressure to shift the car, if the value body does not have enough pressure, then the car will not shift. In electronic school, I was taught to start at the power supply first, then work your way to the output stage. So your power supply in the transmission will be the transmission pump. The only thing the torque converter does is allows the engine to keep running while the car is not moving, this allow slippage of the so-called clutch. The second thing should have been the Valve body replacement. The third thing that should have been replaced the torque converter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The transmission pump probably should have been replaced while torque converter was replaced. Most mechanics overlook this issue, quite a bit, because it is usually a mechanical pump. However all pumps will fail eventually. If the pump is not building enough pressure at idle, then when you raise the engine idle, then the pump will build pressure enough to shift.

Since the value body, uses hydraulic pressure to shift the car, if the value body does not have enough pressure, then the car will not shift. In electronic school, I was taught to start at the power supply first, then work your way to the output stage. So your power supply in the transmission will be the transmission pump. The only thing the torque converter does is allows the engine to keep running while the car is not moving, this allow slippage of the so-called clutch. The second thing should have been the Valve body replacement. The third thing that should have been replaced the torque converter.
I find it wierd that it drives fine in manual mode though. Thats the only thing that makes me suspect its not a hydraulic/mechanical issue.
 

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2006 Subaru Outback Wagon 2.5L XT Limited
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I find it wierd that it drives fine in manual mode though. Thats the only thing that makes me suspect its not a hydraulic/mechanical issue.
Does this happen at a cold engine start or when your engine has already warmed up?

On my car, the paddle shifters and the +/- on my gear select connect directly to the Body Control unit, which then tells the transmission computer what mode you are in. If you have the same case with your car, then we know the body control unit is talking to the transmission control unit. Subaru loves to have a lot of tables. So chances are there will be a 3 transmission shift point tables one for automatic mode, sport mode, and manual mode. Maybe the transmission computer may need to have a firmware update. Maybe something is lost or glitching out when switch between to two/three tables.

I would start with disconnecting the car battery for a small period of time then reconnecting it. This resets the computers inside the car back to defaults. Computers these days are adaptive and store codes/issues in memory. By disconnecting the car battery, clears out the memory is all of the computers; engine, srs, abs, Transmission, and etc.

Then you could try getting a way of reading the transmission computer thru the OBD2 port and see what the transmission is doing. Maybe you drive and someone watch the monitor or vice or versa.

Third thing to check is check all of your ground connections. Make them sure they are tight, metal to metal, with no paint in-between and no corrosion. There is a chance that you could have a lifted ground somewhere, and when you are in manual sport mode, now you have ground and when you go out of manual mode you lose your ground for an example.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Does this happen at a cold engine start or when your engine has already warmed up?

On my car, the paddle shifters and the +/- on my gear select connect directly to the Body Control unit, which then tells the transmission computer what mode you are in. If you have the same case with your car, then we know the body control unit is talking to the transmission control unit. Subaru loves to have a lot of tables. So chances are there will be a 3 transmission shift point tables one for automatic mode, sport mode, and manual mode. Maybe the transmission computer may need to have a firmware update. Maybe something is lost or glitching out when switch between to two/three tables.

I would start with disconnecting the car battery for a small period of time then reconnecting it. This resets the computers inside the car back to defaults. Computers these days are adaptive and store codes/issues in memory. By disconnecting the car battery, clears out the memory is all of the computers; engine, srs, abs, Transmission, and etc.

Then you could try getting a way of reading the transmission computer thru the OBD2 port and see what the transmission is doing. Maybe you drive and someone watch the monitor or vice or versa.

Third thing to check is check all of your ground connections. Make them sure they are tight, metal to metal, with no paint in-between and no corrosion. There is a chance that you could have a lifted ground somewhere, and when you are in manual sport mode, now you have ground and when you go out of manual mode you lose your ground for an example.
This only occurs once the engine/transmission is up to temperature. It is getting so bad now that it almost stalls the engine. Still no codes... im at a loss
 

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2020 Outback Premier 2.5i
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What are the revs like when this happens? High, then a shift with a bang? Only from one particular gear to another? Revs seem normal then a shift with a bang going from 1st to 2nd? If the latter, does this trans have a lockup torque convertor? If so, and it's coming in way too soon then you'll almost stall the engine.
Diesel mechanic here too (licensed in both automotive and Truck & Coach) but new to Subaru.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What are the revs like when this happens? High, then a shift with a bang? Only from one particular gear to another? Revs seem normal then a shift with a bang going from 1st to 2nd? If the latter, does this trans have a lockup torque convertor? If so, and it's coming in way too soon then you'll almost stall the engine.
Diesel mechanic here too (licensed in both automotive and Truck & Coach) but new to Subaru.
Revs are about 1200rpm, car will start moving then around 3-4 mph is where the massive jolt takes place. It is a CVT trans with a lock up torque converter. It feels like its locking up way too early.
 

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2020 Onyx
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This only occurs once the engine/transmission is up to temperature. It is getting so bad now that it almost stalls the engine. Still no codes... im at a loss
Curious what transmission fluid they used - was the work done by subaru specialists? You said in your original post that you have a CVT but you have a regular automatic, right? (oops nevermind - CVT it is)
 

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2020 Outback Premier 2.5i
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I imagine that a direct lockup at 1200 rpm and at 4 mph would be a good indication that the convertor is the problem - especially if you didn't have the issue before they replaced it. At lockup and around 1200 you probably should be doing around 30-ish mph. Don't take my word for it though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just figured id provide an update to everyone, car broke down this morning. Every light on the dash came on car is making a whirring noise from the transmission area. I have codes p0841, p0965, p2750, as well as c0231 and c0045. Im thinking the pump in the transmission finally let go.
 
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