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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, I am not a professional installer. If I did something wrong, then feel free to let me know.
What I needed

Tools
  • Trim pulling tools
  • 10mm and 12mm sockets
  • Soldering Iron and solder
  • wire strippers




I decided to locate the amp in the glove compartment. The amp is so small I still have space for a few odds and ends. It also helps that the glove compartment is only held in with 1 gas strut that snaps off pretty easily. I mounted the amp to the back of the glove compartment with 4 4mm x 12mm bolts. To get the wires into the box, I did have to do a little creative trimming. Also putting it there gave me easy access to the dip switches and the microphone connection


I used the instructions for the RF Amp install instructions to figure out the order to pull the trim. Since I was putting the amp in the glove compartment, I didn't need to pull the center console. There are only 4 phillips head screws for all the different pieces of trim. Everything else is snap together. The radio is held in with 4 10mm screws. Once the radio is loose, there are a lot of wires behind it. The good thing is once you get the radio out, most of the factory harnesses have a loop of extra slack that is held with a piece of tape. That made it a lot easier to reconnect everything later on.

For the harness, I added 2ft lengths of the 14 gauge speaker wire which seemed like plenty at the time, but I probably should have made them 3 ft lengths. The wire colors and pin locations for the harness line up perfectly with the kicker supplied plugs. All the connections were soldered and heatshrinked. I didn't want to take a chance on a loose connection and having to pull it back apart. If you have a multi meter handy, I would definitely recommend testing each connection.

Powering the amp. There is an unused 4 pin connector behind the radio that is used in the install of the RF amp. It has a 12v, a ground, and a yellow wire that I didn't test. I did power on the amp using this connection before putting everything back just to make sure everything was working. Since I didn't have the proper connector and didn't want to hack up the factory harness, I did end up running the power wire and the ground into the engine bay. There is a grommet in the passenger foot well where the AC condensate line goes through. You just have to pull down the carpet to find it. There is plenty of space for two wires. I used a ground stud at the top of the firewall above the grommet. The 12v wire was run to the battery and attached to one of the 12mm accessory screws with a ring terminal.

I fished the harness from the radio cavity into the glove compartment. It did require a head stand to get a view from the bottom.

Once the wiring harness was in, it was all reconnecting everything and putting back the trim. In all it took me maybe 4-5 hours. It would be half of that on a second install.

A note on the Amp
- You need to push the radio detect button. Nothing will work right without it. I tested the wiring harness for an hour before figuring this out.
 

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Premium Member
2020 Outback Onyx XT
Joined
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3,606 Posts
First off, I am not a professional installer. If I did something wrong, then feel free to let me know.
What I needed
Tools
  • Trim pulling tools
  • 10mm and 12mm sockets
  • Soldering Iron and solder
  • wire strippers



I decided to locate the amp in the glove compartment. The amp is so small I still have space for a few odds and ends. It also helps that the glove compartment is only held in with 1 gas strut that snaps off pretty easily. I mounted the amp to the back of the glove compartment with 4 4mm x 12mm bolts. To get the wires into the box, I did have to do a little creative trimming. Also putting it there gave me easy access to the dip switches and the microphone connection


I used the instructions for the RF Amp install instructions to figure out the order to pull the trim. Since I was putting the amp in the glove compartment, I didn't need to pull the center console. There are only 4 phillips head screws for all the different pieces of trim. Everything else is snap together. The radio is held in with 4 10mm screws. Once the radio is loose, there are a lot of wires behind it. The good thing is once you get the radio out, most of the factory harnesses have a loop of extra slack that is held with a piece of tape. That made it a lot easier to reconnect everything later on.

For the harness, I added 2ft lengths of the 14 gauge speaker wire which seemed like plenty at the time, but I probably should have made them 3 ft lengths. The wire colors and pin locations for the harness line up perfectly with the kicker supplied plugs. All the connections were soldered and heatshrinked. I didn't want to take a chance on a loose connection and having to pull it back apart. If you have a multi meter handy, I would definitely recommend testing each connection.

Powering the amp. There is an unused 4 pin connector behind the radio that is used in the install of the RF amp. It has a 12v, a ground, and a yellow wire that I didn't test. I did power on the amp using this connection before putting everything back just to make sure everything was working. Since I didn't have the proper connector and didn't want to hack up the factory harness, I did end up running the power wire and the ground into the engine bay. There is a grommet in the passenger foot well where the AC condensate line goes through. You just have to pull down the carpet to find it. There is plenty of space for two wires. I used a ground stud at the top of the firewall above the grommet. The 12v wire was run to the battery and attached to one of the 12mm accessory screws with a ring terminal.

I fished the harness from the radio cavity into the glove compartment. It did require a head stand to get a view from the bottom.

Once the wiring harness was in, it was all reconnecting everything and putting back the trim. In all it took me maybe 4-5 hours. It would be half of that on a second install.

A note on the Amp
- You need to push the radio detect button. Nothing will work right without it. I tested the wiring harness for an hour before figuring this out.
Awesome! Any concerns about heat dissipation in the glovebox? Does the amp get warm at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Awesome! Any concerns about heat dissipation in the glovebox? Does the amp get warm at all?
I don't think it will get too hot in there but I haven't run it too long yet. The manual calls for 4 inches of open ventilation for the amp. The amp has thermal overloads built in. If they start tripping, I'll have to write another post about how I moved the amp.
 

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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't think it will get too hot in there but I haven't run it too long yet. The manual calls for 4 inches of open ventilation for the amp. The amp has thermal overloads built in. If they start tripping, I'll have to write another post about how I moved the amp.
After a 30 minute drive, the glove box was not noticeably warmer than the car was. The amp itself was barley warm.
 
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