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Discussion Starter #1
So, long story short, I totaled my 11' 2.5i limited I had stacked with options. It literally had everything except Nav, side sill illumination, puddle lights, and trailer hitch. I bought it new from my local dealer for a couple hundred below invoice price, and loved it, although I learned quickly I wished I'd had the trailer hitch on a few occasions for renting uhaul trailers which don't charge for mileage. Anyhow, after the day I crashed the car, I went into a frenzy while waiting for the insurance company to decide it was totaled and did extensive research on how to get the best deal for a subaru I could. It should also be noted that I just did the same sort of research for my GF and her new impreza back in November, but had to go with the local dealer as they were able to get the color she wanted and gave me invoice price on it. If you're paying invoice you're getting ripped off. The following is how Subaru charges their dealerhips, then I'll discuss how to use this to get yours cheap:

-Dealerships technically originally pay Invoice for your car to Subaru after it is sold. In an outback it's about 2,000 below MSRP.

-At the end of a period of time the dealership is given money back, called a holdback for each car they sell. Your average dealership will get the car for this price. It's called their bottom line.

-If a dealership has an outstanding customer service record they receive incentives for each sale on top of their holdback.

-On top of that, if you're dealership is a high volume delaership, they receive additional incentives for that.

-So, when you find a price for bottom line in a car guide, that's just a bottom line for every dealership, not for the ones with great service and high volume sales.

Here's how I bought my $37,700 brand new factory ordered OB, every feature I could possibly have, including the flexible strut sway bar installed, for just over 32,000, which had an invoice of 34,000, and a BL around 33,500:

Simply put, you must be willing to travel for your car unless you live in a large metropolitan area. I live about 90 miles from one of the largest Metro areas in the country. I have a consumer reports account with the car feature added on. If you're buying a car, get this, you have access to every car, their invoice and their Bottom line less individual dealership incentives. I'm sure you can find the info elsewhere, but it was CR that got me in touch with my new dealer, that hooked me up. There is an alternative method here, which is go on subaru.com find all the dealers in a geographic area you'd be willing to travel to just for picking up your car, and send them a detailed message about all the features you know you want. On CR, just go through their price quote feature and you'll get a few guaranteed prices right around Bottom line, and then you'll most likely receive emails from those dealers with even lower prices, notice mine was about $1500 below bottom line, if you want the exact pricing let me know, I've got the numbers at home. I most likely could resell this car for more than I bought it for, but that's a lot of hassle I don't want. It's on order, but since I loved my 11' I know I won't be able to part with my 13'.

Be careful if you're trying to trade-in a car mind you. When we were in the dealership making the deal, we overheard someone trying to make a trade in on a car. They are selling you a car at a severely discounted price, they will try and make a larger profit on your trade-in then they might at your local dealer. If your car is worth less than about 10k sell your car private party, you shouldn't have much trouble with this. Even if your car isn't in Excellent condition, post to craigslist and in your local paper for excellent condition price, people go in to this car buying experience with the notion they will be negotiating the price. Don't get ripped off. If the car is less than 10k you shouldn't have any problem getting rid of it in a few weeks as long as you don't live in a place with an extremely low population density. I can't vouch for selling cars in rural areas however.

Anyhow, reply to the thread if you have any questions. I'll be adding the 19mm swaybar mod as soon as I receive the car, just in case you were wondering.

Good Luck!

I'm not giving away the info on my specific dealer yet until I receive my car mid to late January, I'll hook you up then. Or give me your contact info and I'll send you an email in private, I'm just skeptical of some how messing up my accomplishment.
 

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What model did you get for $37K? The 3.6 limited fully optioned out?
$300-$400 below invoice is fairly common for most Subaru dealers if they won't do $300 below invoice find another dealer stop wasting your time.

Always negotiate new car price first - then if you have a trade tell them you have a trade you want to start negotiating on.

NEVER tell them your trading a car till you have settled on a new car final price!

The numbers game applies to both cars if they know your trading the new car price will be higher based on their rough numbers on your trade- and they will ALWAYS play HARD BALL on TRADES!!! They stand to make more money off the TRADE than they do off the new car in many cases.

I spent 20 minutes negotiating the new car price and TWO hours negotiating the TRADE VALUE
 

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Discussion Starter #3
2.5i limited caramel bronze with Eyesight and all that comes with it. I believe it had pop. package 3, but here's the fact I got everything on this car, except the rear underbody guard (can't have it with trailer hitch) and illumination package (can't have it with eyesight, uses the same harness port or something I believe). Otherwise, I got all the deflectors, nets, cargo organizer, leather shift knob (the wood grain one looks chinsey), battery hold down, oil cap, valve covers, license plate holder, remote start, pzev (I care about the earth, lol), **** I was told by the guy who sold it to me, the only option I didn't get was the window air deflectors, and that's cause I have them leftover from my 11' in the garage that I never installed. I'm sure I missed something in the list, but dig deep for all the options available, and I literally bought them all. I wasn't sold them, I went in knowing I wanted them. Some for bling factor, but most because they were things I'd regretted not getting on my 11'. And of course, I bought a lot of them simply because I could, and it would be more expensive to have them installed ex post facto. I know many of them are a little silly, but that's just me.

As far as the trade-in value goes, the dealer I was dealing with told me, that's how this dealership makes most of their money. Although the fact is, trade-ins are where most dealerships make their money. If they sell them at auction they'll get between retail and trade in value, and if they personally resell them they get all of that margin. I'm a firm believer that unless you are trading in an expensive car your average joe can't afford easily, sell it privately! But that's just me.
 

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2.5i limited caramel bronze with Eyesight and all that comes with it. I believe it had pop. package 3, but here's the fact I got everything on this car, except the rear underbody guard (can't have it with trailer hitch) and illumination package (can't have it with eyesight, uses the same harness port or something I believe). Otherwise, I got all the deflectors, nets, cargo organizer, leather shift knob (the wood grain one looks chinsey), battery hold down, oil cap, valve covers, license plate holder, remote start, pzev (I care about the earth, lol), **** I was told by the guy who sold it to me, the only option I didn't get was the window air deflectors, and that's cause I have them leftover from my 11' in the garage that I never installed. I'm sure I missed something in the list, but dig deep for all the options available, and I literally bought them all. I wasn't sold them, I went in knowing I wanted them. Some for bling factor, but most because they were things I'd regretted not getting on my 11'. And of course, I bought a lot of them simply because I could, and it would be more expensive to have them installed ex post facto. I know many of them are a little silly, but that's just me.

As far as the trade-in value goes, the dealer I was dealing with told me, that's how this dealership makes most of their money. Although the fact is, trade-ins are where most dealerships make their money. If they sell them at auction they'll get between retail and trade in value, and if they personally resell them they get all of that margin. I'm a firm believer that unless you are trading in an expensive car your average joe can't afford easily, sell it privately! But that's just me.
Guessing your 37K is out the door with all the tax , Licensing and probably that silly little value insurance add on $6 a month extra?

2.5i Limited 4dr Car

2.5L 4-cyl.
AWD

CVT Automatic
$27,281
$29,095

^ these are the going price for the Limited which comes loaded with nearly everything already which might suggest you paid lots of money for just a few added items
 

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pfunk,
I don't mean to make you feel bad, but I have to agree with subiesailor on the pricing. Don't get me wrong, U$32k OTD of an loaded 2.5 is a pretty good deal .., but not insanely great deal even with every options.
It is pretty hard I think to reach U$37k, even OTD (i.e. U$34k before TTL) on 2.5. With U$37k OTD, I think you should be able to get 3.6 with Nav easily.

Just my 2-cent.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
So here the CR full price spread just on the port installs (see .pdf). There are other features, you name it I bought it. pop package 2 (wheel arch moldings, Outback splash guards, rear seatback protector, rear bumper cover, all-weather floor mats ) for $533 which is invoice, Add, roof deflector $80, hood protector $89, wheel locks $25, corner moldings $35, moonroof air deflector $80, remote start $323, puddle lights $134, security shock sensor $98, body side molding $170, trailer hitch $417, stainless spt plate frame $24, spt valve stem caps $12, eyesight (nav, moonroof, all the stuff that comes in that package, it's $3,280 invoice, just for that), cap and battery hold down $35 invoice each, cargo organizer $62, Anti Slip mat $17, Cargo nets $96 for all three (32 each), Rear seat back protector $53, Sti petals were $120, flexible strut sway bar $323, leather shift knob $76, Cigar lighter $26, pzev $300, destination fee $795 (manufacturers charge, not negotiable). Which is 7203 over base model price at invoice for add ons. Invoice is 27,281 so invoice on this car is 34484. Holdback is 1105 so bottom line is 33379, and I paid 32000 including doc fee, but not taxes and title transfer which are out of their control either way. That's 1379 below bottom line, and I'm sure I forgot a feature or two here, as I don't have the list infront of me. If you ask me, $2484 below invoice is outstanding, not mediocre. The prices on all the options listed above are at or below invoice, as if they were cheaper in their online parts catalog than invoice, then that's the price they gave me. If you can do better than this then great. But I'm pretty sure if the average person searching this forum sees they might be able to save a fraction of what I did without any negotiation, they will scoop it up quickly! Feel free to calculate MSRP, but I did that math already and it was $37,7**. I would never pay that either, but mind you there are people out there that walk onto a lot and pay MSRP, if they read this they won't have to as I didn't have to negotiate anything!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
the 37k was MSRP before taxes and fees, there are many articles out there about the 2013 pushing 40k this and the special appearance packages are how that is accomplished. I however, paid no where near that mind you, and I figured people would weant to know buying online is easy and can save you lots of money!
 

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I paid $31,500 + TTL

on a 2013 2.5i limited navi w/ Special appearance package white satin pearl w/ saddle brown

including

all weather mats
body side molding
puddle lights
rear seat back protectors
Subaru front windshield sun protector
Exterior paint and Interior protection kit ( which i believe is bs)
splash guards
wheel locks
subaru valve stem caps
pzev
and First oil change free.

I'd say this was a fairly good deal. I did my entire deal online:29:

sticker was 35,400

37k sticker on an outback would result in No sale. I prob would've left the lot laughing and not even considered negotiating as clearly they would be out of there mind thinking this vehicle could even possibly sell at that price range.
 

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I paid $31,500 + TTL

on a 2013 2.5i limited navi w/ Special appearance package white satin pearl w/ saddle brown

including

all weather mats
body side molding
puddle lights
rear seat back protectors
Subaru front windshield sun protector
Exterior paint and Interior protection kit ( which i believe is bs)
splash guards
wheel locks
subaru valve stem caps
pzev
and First oil change free.

I'd say this was a fairly good deal. I did my entire deal online:29:

sticker was 35,400

37k sticker on an outback would result in No sale. I prob would've left the lot laughing and not even considered negotiating as clearly they would be out of there mind thinking this vehicle could even possibly sell at that price range.
Ours was just a shy bit lower but no NAV - everything else.
Eye sight system is interesting and will probably be mandated at some point by the GOV. At which point it will be like Airbags an added cost rolled into the general pricing of the car today its a very costly add on.
 

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I did all my negotiations over the internet via emails; both new car price and trade in.
It took me about 3 days back and forth. I had enough time to research everything in the comfort of my home.
Then I came in person to pick-up the car and sign all documents (they were all completed prior my arrival based on my emails). That took about an hour which included evaluation of my trade in (received the trade in amount/allowance that I was asking for).
 

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I did all my negotiations over the internet via emails; both new car price and trade in.
It took me about 3 days back and forth. I had enough time to research everything in the comfort of my home.
Then I came in person to pick-up the car and sign all documents (they were all completed prior my arrival based on my emails). That took about an hour which included evaluation of my trade in (received the trade in amount/allowance that I was asking for).

Basically did the same thing but in 2 days I was able to get the price I wanted on the outback and only about 300 bucks less than I was wanting on my trade in ( was def not a deal breaker by any means)

But anyways just wanted to add.. this w/o a doubt is the only way to buy a car and get the exact or close to the exact deal you are looking for.

IF your at the dealer they play hardball and try and get u to sign on the spot.

Do it via the interwebz and the online sales mnger knows your prob shopping around for the best price
 

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I agree ... in my case I had to drive over 200 miles from my domicile to get the car that I wanted and to get a deal that I wanted! Internet buying rocks! No pressure from sales people, no running back and forth to "check the price" with the sales manager, etc.etc. And if you work several dealers, you can "bluff" pricing and trade ins....
 

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how do I find out the invoice price? Thanks
You could search every car site on the web and analyze it to death.

_OR_

Knock 6-7% off the MSRP of the basic car, and knock 15%-25% off
the list price of options and packages (15% off for factory-installed
options and 25% off for dealer-installed accessories).

That's a pretty good estimate of "dealer invoice" (not to be confused
with actual dealer cost). Next, deduct another 2-3% for "holdback".
After that, it depends on the individual dealer's "special incentives"
from the factory -- which you will NEVER know.

_OR_

Follow jogosub's plan, and send emails requesting bottom-line quotes
from 3-4 dealers. Be very specific regarding trim and options, and be
sure to let each dealer know that others are getting the same email...

...then sit back and enjoy a pint of cold barley soup,

Looby
 

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I'm a bit educated on car purchasing. I purchase every two years or so.
1-get the facts, research it in depth before you even look at a car.
2-throw loyalty out the window
3-remember its a negotiation, every thing included, the vehicle price, the financing, the warranty, accessories, even service can be negotiated at the time of sale.
4-if you don't feel good about a deal->walk out the door. Reference #2
5-be nice!
6-negotiate the car price out the door 1st. Don't get caught up in the "package".
7-have a trade? Make sure your research is done also. And don't bother even bringing it up until the vehicle price you've negotiated is set. That's part if the "package"
8-dealers want to hide the vehicle price in the "package" like monthly payments, accessories, extended warranties, etc.
9-realize that the BEST deal you negotiate should leave you satisfied, if not walk out
10-don't wait until you need a vehicle that day, you will cave in
11-don't get caught up in the frenzy of holiday incentives. You CAN get the same deal anytime if year.
12-be prepared to negotiate at the end of the month, and remember, walk if your not happy.

I could go on and on but, remember the dealer NEEDS to turn a profit, otherwise it's out of business for them. You should be happy with whatever you negotiate.

The dealers ask what they can do for you when you arrive, tell them right out you want to buy a car, you only have ONE hour, and give me the bottom line vehicle price they can give you, and let them know up front if dont like that price you'll be walking.
Your not married to that dealer, throw the LOYALTY out the window! It's a business deal.
 
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